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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just taken delivery, and noticed a few things that I didn't know about....

The drivetrain groans loudly on the overrun. Haynes diagnoses this as a worn mainshaft. Is there anything else it could be? I remember the 90's and 110's I used to drive in a previous job whining like that, but I was always told that was the cross-ply tyres, so that can't be it.

Also, I have a metallic scraping noise from somewhere. It's pretty constant, whether I'm driving under power, coasting in neutral, turning, braking, whatever. It's only when the vehicle moves that it does it, so it's NOT the engine. It sounds like someone sharpening a knife on a whetstone, but constant in loudness and pitch.

Also, I didn't know to look under the boot carpets...guess what? Rust! How deadly is this to the strength of the body (Water leaking through one hole on left siode, others bubbling above crossmember).

I didn't pay anything like the guides say it's worth, and it's comparatively low on miles. I could still reject it if I had to, but I do want a disco. Should I keep it or cut my losses now I know it had problems? I do have a mechanical warranty on it, by the way.

Thanks in advance,

Mark
'94 300 TDi manual 84000 mls.
 

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The metallic scraping you are hearing could be the dust shields on the brake rotors. Check to see if they are bent and contacting the rotors. My rangie did the same thing after I bent a shield off road. If your disco has sunroofs, the water is probably leaking in from the sunroof drains. Check the drain lines with the sunroof open to see if they are blocked. You can run a long piece of wire down the tube to check for blockages. Also the air-con coil drain line could be plugged. I'm assuming you are in the UK by your 300TDi description so it would make sense that water would leak on the left side if it is coming from the air con system. If your AC line is plugged, you can locate the line on the bulkhead and blow it with compressed air to try and dislodge any crud. The rust in the floors is common among older rangies and disco's and is usually caused by the inslation used under the carpet acting like a sponge and keeping a constant supply of moisture on the floors. You can either remove the insuation, or try to suck the water out with a wet/dry vac and then put a dehumidifier inside the truck overnight. This worked for me in my rangie but will do no good unless the leak is remedied first. As far as rust goes, It's a finicky organism that desn't like to go away once it appears. The best way to remove it is to replace the panel. If it is just surface rust you may be able to sand it down wit some coarse sandpaper until you start seeing bare metal. There are some good rust inhibitors out there that you can apply once you have removed the majority of the rust. I like using extend, made by loctite. It converts rust into a polymer and seals the metal from future rust. The most important thing is to kill it early. Think of it as cancer on your car. The earlier you remove it, the less likely it is to spread or eat through the metal. Once you sand it, and you start seeing pits in the metal, be sure to check for scale as well. It will do no good to treat rust on top if it is still growing underneath a piece of scale. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for help....

No aircon, no sunroof, so they're out.

Yes, I'm in the UK. (I have a yen for anything large, unreliable and British...my other car is a '94 XJ40...a whole other pile of problems but nothing like this.)

Will check the dust shields out, thanks. Yes, it actually does sound like the brakes, but the noise doesn't change when I brake, so I had ruled that out - dust shields hadn't occurred to me.

Is replacing the floor panel in the boot easy? Is it steel or aluminium, can it be welded conventionally? I know about killing rust ASAP, but if the floor is double skinned, I will have problems.

Thanks again,

Mark
 

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Concerning water in the back of the truck, check out two of my posts on the subject of rust: on 10-20-2005 I showed photos of where the water can creep in between badly sealed steel floor panels - I still haven't fully solved this problem fully. On 08-06-2005 (Wet 'trunk') I included a little video of another notorious place where rust begins - take a look. Strangely, our 96 D1 has never leaked from the 'alpine' windows or the back door. Until you really solve the water leak problem, keep the big rear area sponge-mat in your basement but expect the truck to be much noisier. Best of luck!
 

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check the handbrake which is at the rear of the transfercase. It may be full of junk, or the pads may be rubbing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for help. chaps.

I came to the conclusion that the grinding noise was the brakes. Bought a set of pads, split pins & springs & got a wheel off...blow me, there was not only no friction material, there was not a lot of backing plate left! And not much disc either!!

So, I threatened the dealer with fire & brimstone (well, the Sale of Goods Act, unsafe, kids inmit etc,) and he rolled over and offered to have it fixed. I hope he does, 'cos I made it clear that my next option was trading standards and insisting on a refund.

He is a bit scared. He's going to look at gearbox, transfer case, axles & floorpan & replace what is gone.

Will keep everyone posted, thanks for the advice.
 
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