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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. Hope all is well.
I’ve researched boards for this so I have a general understanding but wanted to follow up.

I have a 2000 disco v8 158k miles.

8 months ago new water pump, thermostat as water pump failed one drive.

I just got a scan gauge 1 month ago and monitoring things. The last couple days here in PA, while car is driving, temps normal - 195-199. But then as I soon as I idle, they creep up to 203, then 207, then after a few minutes 219….

what i do know:

a month ago it idled at 204/5 fine, no higher.

I don’t off road.

both fans work.

i don’t see any leaks, heater works, bled system to make sure.

I asked him (mechanic) for a good 180 thermo and I noticed a whitish “motorad” which are crap I read.

next steps before replacing a possibly bad/sludged radiator would be a good grey or black thermo?

Any advice lmk and thanks
 

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2001 Discovery Series II SE7, w/SAI and without SAI
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next steps before replacing a possibly bad/sludged radiator would be a good grey or black thermo?
Yes. Get that thing out of there and fully flush it out - Inc the radiator. It's it the original radiator?

And while a scan gauge is awesome for seeing what's going on, you should still install a manual pressure gauge eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Roger. Would a black britbart 180 be ok? I can get one here today in my hometown as opposed to waiting a week for a rover north one.

original radiator, seemed the top and bottom were hot to touch, but bottom was hard to get too.

so take out and replace new better thermo, flush radiator (not block), hook back up and see what’s what?

I flushed about 1.5 years ago but I’ll have to check threads on how to do that again so I make sure to do right.

thnx for help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also one other question - I know we shouldn't put 'sealers etc' and such in the coolant system etc, but I saw on other disco boards to add this to the radiator, just in case, to clean out if any mud etc got into.


Someone posted " Hi, get a bottle of good brand radiator cleaner(i used Liqui Moly 1804), extract some coolant from the expansion tank as to be able to poor the cleaner in, drive the car one day with cleaner in it, let it cool down, let the coolant out through the drain hole at the bottom of the coolant rail, open the tank, let water through a garden hose in it untill it flows out through the drain hole, start the engine, let it idle 3-4 minutes while the water is flowing, stop the engine and the water, wait untill nothing comes out through the drain hole, refit the plug, take out the bleed screw, unclip and raise the tank above the top hose, poor in 6l of 100% OAT then continue with water untill coolant is coming out through the hole, refit partially the bleed screw as coolant to still have access out, start the engine, keep it rev'd above 1500rpm untill no bubbles are coming out at the screw then tighten it, put back the tank, top up to mark and tighten the sh*t out of the tank's cap...job done"

Wondering if ok to do that 'just in case" radiator has sludge for whatever reason while I do thermo? Or better not to use that stuff?

thnx
 

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Yeah the black Britpart one should be good. I have the black Bearmach one and it works great. I’d be wary of the cleaners. Sometimes they work great, but sometimes it can also clog up ports with the stuff it’s flushed out
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah the black Britpart one should be good. I have the black Bearmach one and it works great. I’d be wary of the cleaners. Sometimes they work great, but sometimes it can also clog up ports with the stuff it’s flushed out
thanks for that.

also instead of draining block, I am going to go the shop vac route to try and get the block drained.

silly question but do I just blow the vac up in the lower radiator hose once I have drained etc? Or would that be one of the top hoses that go into the thermostat? I for the love of me can’t think that one through.

if anyone has an idea.
Thnx.
 

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Before going through all that hassle, I think you might still have air in the lines.

When you bled the system, did you run it up to above 1500 rpm and crack the bleed valve? It’ll spray out for the first few minutes but then turn into a steady steam that’s not splattering all over the place. Try that and see if it helps before you go draining everything
 

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Changing out the thermostat is a fool’s errand.

the thermostat doesn’t control the operating temperature, at all. The thermostat controls when the cooling begins, kind of like an on/off switch.

beginning cooling sooner won’t make it cool any better (or worse), and those thermostats are designed for climates with high ambient temperatures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Roger that.
Sorry just one other question as I’m still waiting for new thermo to be delivered.

so I’ve flushed the coolant from bottom rad hose.

then flushed with water.

then clamped hose back and filled with water.

ran truck for a good 10 minutes.

let cool.

repeated process maybe 3 times.

water flows out of that hose when flushing, so is that a good sign the radiator is clear of any debris and or sludge? Only takes 15 seconds for it all to drain.

Thnx.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Double post sorry
thanks for the reply. So my fan clutch, fan in front of water pump seems to be on 24x7 when car is in use.

The second fan only comes on if I reach 210 temps or close.

is that how it should work? I’ve never replaced it. When the water pump was done 9 months ago we didn’t do the fan. Maybe I should as it seems like an easy project?

so yesterday I installed new Brit thermo, checked all coolants hoses for leaks and cleaned. Replaced clamps. Flushed system about 5 times and a reverse flush.

here are my two comparison readings after doing. First and last part I was sitting idling for a while.

seems to have gotten slightly better. Before when idling for 10 minutes it would creep to about 220 and Fast.


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Yes. Get that thing out of there and fully flush it out - Inc the radiator. It's it the original radiator?

And while a scan gauge is awesome for seeing what's going on, you should still install a manual pressure gauge eventually.
Hi all. Hope all is well.
I’ve researched boards for this so I have a general understanding but wanted to follow up.

I have a 2000 disco v8 158k miles.

8 months ago new water pump, thermostat as water pump failed one drive.

I just got a scan gauge 1 month ago and monitoring things. The last couple days here in PA, while car is driving, temps normal - 195-199. But then as I soon as I idle, they creep up to 203, then 207, then after a few minutes 219….

what i do know:

a month ago it idled at 204/5 fine, no higher.

I don’t off road.

both fans work.

i don’t see any leaks, heater works, bled system to make sure.

I asked him (mechanic) for a good 180 thermo and I noticed a whitish “motorad” which are crap I read.

next steps before replacing a possibly bad/sludged radiator would be a good grey or black thermo?

Any advice lmk and thanks
I have a 944 range rover classic. I have flushed the radiator about 4 times in ten years, I change the antifreeze once a year, so 10 times. this is what my radiator looked like inside. When my heater core blew out pouring hot coolant onto my carpet.-----I had it re-cored with a company that uses products from the link below. My Radiator looked fine on the outside, it had been flushed numerous times.
Change the fan clutch if, as someone said in a post, engine it hot if you can stop it with a rolled up news paper.
A thermostat is and exchange valve. It takes the hot coolant from the engine and exchanges it with the now cooler coolant from the radiator. Then it closes and the process starts again. It needs to function in this way. Thermostats are even more important on an all Aluminum V8. You should never need electric fans in addition to your bladed engine fan, unless you have A/C on, or are in a hot desert, or both.
I always use the recommended temp thermostat, the engineers designed for the vehicle. I prefer Land Rover parts. They know the best operating temp for your vehicle

https://thermalsolutionsmfg.com/.../2018/07/core-01.pdf scroll down a bit to the VTH section. I had a 4 row radiator, now it is 3 row or 3 cores radiator, it is now 20% more efficient than the stock radiator was with fewer cores.. I had this done in Santa Maria, Ca. at Industrial Radiator. Awesome work, best products. He said yeah we get a lot of those land rover radiators to rebuild, all for the same reasons. In my case Aluminum engine, copper radiator, the wrong antifreeze, lack of changing anti freeze coolant after operating in freezing conditions. The Antifreeze that came with your Land rover can become acidic after below freezing temps. My Range Rover factory book, states to change it, if I go below freezing.. Who does that? lol

Anyway,
Look into that radiator!
Look at that Fan clutch! Easy to change that.
Be sure no air is left in the sytem. My 4.2 engine cooling takes about 10 miles of driving to get the air completely out of it. I follow the fill procedure, but it is just that way.
Temps hot while idling tells me the fan clutch or the radiator is bad or both.
Change the fan clutch, $120.00 bucks maybe, run the same test. If the engine still idles at the same raised temp. It is the radiator..!
When I took it to the radiator shop to be flushed and/or examined he sent me this photo, I could not believe it. I had been so vigilant. but its a 94 automobile, with an aluminum engine, what did I expect, lucky I didn't blow a head gasket too.




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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks so much for the post and feedback.
I got a new Britpart 180 black thermo. Seems to idle 206-210. Still a little too high for me but better than the 220 before.

When you say viscous clutch, is that the small part that attaches the bigger plastic fan behind/in front engine of the radiator? You suggest replacing that and the fan?

all in all I may just replace the radiator to be “safe”, think that’s a good call.

I’ll check air again. The night I changed the thermo and bled, heater was hot. Yesterday after not driving it for a few days since, the heater isLuke warm/cool. So I think I have some more bleeding to do.
 

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Thanks so much for the post and feedback.
I got a new Britpart 180 black thermo. Seems to idle 206-210. Still a little too high for me but better than the 220 before.

When you say viscous clutch, is that the small part that attaches the bigger plastic fan behind/in front engine of the radiator? You suggest replacing that and the fan?

all in all I may just replace the radiator to be “safe”, think that’s a good call.

I’ll check air again. The night I changed the thermo and bled, heater was hot. Yesterday after not driving it for a few days since, the heater isLuke warm/cool. So I think I have some more bleeding to do.
If it’s a 99-02 truck, you can just get the fan clutch. If you have an 03 or 04, it’s a one piece design. It’s worth noting that I converted my 1 piece ‘03 fan to the 2 piece early fan and it works just as well. Even buying both parts cost me half the price of a new single piece, with the bonus of future ease of service. With the 2 piece fan, you won’t need to replace the fan unless you have chipped, cracked or missing blades.
And yeah, definitely bleed that thing some more. It should idle at 194-200 with that thermostat. See this writeup - this is what I have done to make sure the thing bleeds properly: Easy Bleeding Trick for the Cooling System
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If it’s a 99-02 truck, you can just get the fan clutch. If you have an 03 or 04, it’s a one piece design. It’s worth noting that I converted my 1 piece ‘03 fan to the 2 piece early fan and it works just as well. Even buying both parts cost me half the price of a new single piece, with the bonus of future ease of service. With the 2 piece fan, you won’t need to replace the fan unless you have chipped, cracked or missing blades.
And yeah, definitely bleed that thing some more. It should idle at 194-200 with that thermostat. See this writeup - this is what I have done to make sure the thing bleeds properly: Easy Bleeding Trick for the Cooling System
thanks for that and the link.

Last night (the truck has been sitting for 2 days after new thermostat and first bleed done) I took the bleed screw off and was able to put in about another 1.5 quarts of fluid. Then followed bleeding instruction, did rpm’s at 1500 and let idol for a good 15 minutes. Temps hit 199 and that’s it. And the heater worked again! So definitely an improvement. Going to take out today and see as well.


ty again.


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