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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thank you in advance for any help.

I have a '94 Dicovery v8i. It has 120K miles.

I was driving last week, and noticed a lag between 1k and 3K.
A few days later the battery light came on, and the tach stopped working. The next day, the check engine light came on. The next day, it died as if a battery/alternator. Had them checked, not that. Also replaced the coil.

A mechanic who works with Brit. autos says he thinks it is a a wire grounding out in the column/ignition swith. This just not seem right to me.

Sound Familiar?
 

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MG
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Who did you have check out the alternator? They may have checked out the alt while it was working per specs (isn't that a corollary of Murphy's Law?).

It sounds exactly like what my '95 DI V8i did several times now - the trick is that it is an intermittent failure that eventually leaves you driving exclusively off your battery (make sure you've got a good charge!). It's as it had been warning me for weeks before it finaly gave up.

I believe that the diode(s) (not sure on terminology, as I have to translate the technitian's babble from Spanish) were the culprit in my case.

In any case, after three rebuilds of the same alt, I've gone and upgraded to a Mean Grean heavy duty replacement.

Good luck and welcome to LRO! Any pics of your rig?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info.

The Alt was tested at autozone and I would assume that the mechanic has checked it as well since it has been in his shop.

Did you have the same symptoms with the tach?

I don't understand why there would be a lag at certain RPM with an Alternator problem, unless it is creating a draw on the battery.

When pumped up to 5000K the battery light goes out, then come back on immediatly, which again points to the alternator.

TRhanks for everyones help.

-Kevin
 

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textbook case of pre-failure alternator flakiness. Get a good one, don't mess with Autozone unless you like getting a new one every year. Denso makes them under license from Marelli, so the OEM replacement ones are quite nice compared to the earlier ones.
Stick a new tensioner on there since you'll have the belt off etc- they tend to go soon after 120K or so.
 

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Ditto, my alternator worked intermittently with the exact same symptoms before finally kicking the bucket. I would NOT recommend a MeanGreen. I went that route and ended up with a cooked battery and fuse box. They would not return calls or emails when I tried to get a replacement under warrantee. I eventually had to have my credit card company go after them.
 

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That's a good question, Felix! I had my original rebuilt, but a year later it's sounding like the bearing it going out. So I guess I'm in the same boat, trying to decide on having mine rebuilt again, or get a replacement.
 

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Buy a new one. A brand new one. Not some half-assed rebuilt that leaves you stranded at the worst time. I bought a NAPA rebuilt, it was in stock locally, and am on my second one. I carry a spare always. I've since found a vendor in NY who sells brand new Marelli units for $170 or so, they're on special for December at $150. I'd suggest the 120A RR alternator, slight modification to the power wire required. The 100a unit has a 6mm stud, the 120a has an 8.
 

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So, frickjp, how can I get one one of these brand new Marelli's for $150?

I'd be willing to paypal the money plus shipping, if you'd be willing to send one to me.
 

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MG
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If your alt is warm to the touch after a full night's rest, I would lay money on the need for a new one...
 

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Forward!
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errant said:
My new alternator arrived today. Going to switch it out tomorrow :)

$166 including shipping from http://www.iat-usa.com/

Thanks for the tip, frickjp :clap:
Hey errant, thanks for the link!!!! I know that will come in very usefull in the near future. What exactly do you need to do to the power wire to make the RR unit work?
 

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I went with the stock Disco alternator, not the RR alt, Badger. Maybe frickjp can tell us how it's done?
 
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