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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my '92 RRC died on me suddenly on the freeway. Got a tow home and started to look everything over, I have verified the following:
• Fuel pump has power, relay is good and goes through the start up cycle correctly.
• Main ECU relay is functioning.
• Engine has spark.
• Injectors are pulsing and receiving signal (tested with noid light).
• Engine will turn over and will seem to catch and sputter for about a half second and then just keep rolling on the starter.

It wants to run, but just can't.

What am I missing? I'm at the end of what it could possibly be.
 

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2003 Discovery 2 SE7
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I’ll take you through the process I usually use when something won’t run and I don’t know why.
An engine needs 5 things to run - air, fuel, ignition, compression, and proper timing. Sudden dying on the highway is very unlikely to be caused by air or compression issues, as those kind of problems don’t typically show up suddenly (although checking these things anyway - compression readings, as well as the mass airflow sensor, isn’t a bad idea). That leaves spark, ignition, and fuel. Verify that there is a good, strong spark present at the spark plugs (an ignition module dying or a similar problem could cause your issue), and also verify not only that the injectors are firing, but also that the fuel system is building good pressure - just because the relay clicks, the pump turns on, and the injectors click doesn’t mean it’s building the proper amount of pressure to run - it should be somewhere around 40psi iirc. If everything above checks out, verify that the timing is correct - while it’s unlikely that these motors skip timing (given that it’s a timing chain), overly worn sprockets or a stretched chain could possibly cause the timing to skip. I bought a non-running Volvo a few years back that the previous owner described the same exact issue. It died suddenly on the highway, and when he tried to start it afterward, it would sputter and sound like it wanted to start, but wouldn’t get there. It turned out to be skipped timing due to an old piece of shredded serpentine belt wiggling its way into the cam gears, causing the timing belt to slip. While the timing system in these trucks is set up very differently than that newer Volvo, it’s worth checking if you can’t find anything wrong with any of the other systems. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
V50_M66,
Thanks for taking the time to reply!

I have confirmed today that the engine is indeed getting the correct fuel pressure (2.5 bar) and has good spark.

So the engine has, fuel (good pressure, injectors are getting pulse), has fire (confirmed strong spark), no codes (so I'm guessing the MAF is okay) so we have air.

In the past month I have replaced the fuel pump, ignition coil, ignition amplifier, distributor, plug wires, fuel filter and was running great.

Only thing that I can think of is that it might have broken a tooth on a timing chain gear and skipped a tooth...I REALY hope this is not the case.
 

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V50_M66,
Thanks for taking the time to reply!

I have confirmed today that the engine is indeed getting the correct fuel pressure (2.5 bar) and has good spark.

So the engine has, fuel (good pressure, injectors are getting pulse), has fire (confirmed strong spark), no codes (so I'm guessing the MAF is okay) so we have air.

In the past month I have replaced the fuel pump, ignition coil, ignition amplifier, distributor, plug wires, fuel filter and was running great.

Only thing that I can think of is that it might have broken a tooth on a timing chain gear and skipped a tooth...I REALY hope this is not the case.
That would suck. I doubt it’s the MAF, but there was one time where my Volvo wouldn’t start in the driveway one morning. No codes, and everything else working just fine. Ran great the day before. After checking everything you’ve checked and confirming it all to be working properly, I cleaned the MAF in a last ditch effort with some dedicated MAF cleaner (spray can stuff) and it fired right up. I guess it’s really sensitive to a dirty MAF sensor. Hopefully that’s what is going on with your truck. I doubt it would just suddenly die because of a dirty MAF, but it’s worth cleaning to make sure.
 

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So my '92 RRC died on me suddenly on the freeway. Got a tow home and started to look everything over, I have verified the following:
• Fuel pump has power, relay is good and goes through the start up cycle correctly.
• Main ECU relay is functioning.
• Engine has spark.
• Injectors are pulsing and receiving signal (tested with noid light).
• Engine will turn over and will seem to catch and sputter for about a half second and then just keep rolling on the starter.

It wants to run, but just can't.

What am I missing? I'm at the end of what it could possibly be.
Check the alternator. and the main leads going to the positive side of the battery, be sure they are not corroded in the clamp. check the big hose on the back of the plenum, the stepper motor.
 

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So my '92 RRC died on me suddenly on the freeway.
Sounds like ours. What you may want to consider are the tests outlined in my post yesterday.
Pgs. 728 to 730 cover LT tests (Don't use Haynes as its info is incorrect).
Pg 238 covers trigger hotwire test
Pgs. 208 to 227 test procedures
 

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Sorry, what exactly is the timing set?
Timing chain and associated sprockets/gears. I guess a gear cracked and caused it to jump a tooth?
 

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My 93 SE did also something weird before a month, and here's the problem. So the problem and what I did trying to solve it. The problem is when the engine sits in idle for long as I go into drive and begin moving it sputter a bit and when letting go of gas it backfires onc3 through the back quickly noticed also while idling engine wants to die & RPMs drop significantly all of that doesn't happen when the engine is cold. Car only has a 125K Kilometers.

Things I tried.
-New ignition coil.
-New spark plugs gaped right.
-New distributor pick up coil.
-New RPI AMP box.
-New fuel regulator.
-Checked fuel pressure and hoses at the pump.
-Installed refurbished injectors.
-Cleaned air mass sensor & tried another one same result.
-Made sure connections are good at coil.
-New dizzy original cap.
-Cleaned & tried 3 stepper motors same result.
-Cleaned throttle plate & housing from plate port.
-Installed upgraded TPS same result.
-Made sure of main ground cables.
-Checked for vacuum leaks and replaced them all with new.
-Checked & replaced main relays for EFI & fuel pump.
-Checked timing.
-Fuel filter was already replaced.
-Main engine harness was checked.
-Checked gas cap if closed right.
-Didn't have burnt valves as I did replace the head gaskets while ago and it was driving nicely.

Noticed engine will start better when coolant ECU sensor is unhooked, but still engine dies. Thought maybe the sensor is flooding the engine with fuel. Thank you.
 

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Update 2: instead of checking the alternator which I haven't noticed any lights going dim, or hard startups, I decided to check the timing accuracy which turned out everything lined as it should, but here's what I found. Due to the old leaky injectors that I replaced while trying to fix the major issue and because the engine considered running really rich on the rise of the problem; sparkplugs got covered in carbon really bad as shown in the picture. Cleaned them and will clean the cylinders from plug port then will see what happens.
 

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