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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Short story, I need instructions on how to replacing vehicle side of the Crank Shaft Position Sensor connector.

Long Story, I bought a clean looking complete 1999 Discovery 2 for cheap as a parts donor for one that I got for free last year with a blown up oil pump. Turns out the cheap one looks a thousand times better than the free one and it has about 100,000 less miles on it and is also 5 months newer. so now i am now trying to figure out why it cranks with no start. I figure it to be a bad crankshaft position sensor based on all the overwhelming opinions out here with my symptoms of no spark, no fuel-pump voltage bump. I replaced the CKS and it didn't start. I thought maybe I got a bad one so bought a second one and swapped it in (yes, I checked to make sure I didn't put spacers in first). Still no start. I have got big giant "club-like" hands and based on so little room ended up doing all the work by feel and kept feeling like frayed ends on the vehicle side connector. Cant see all of the connector because Land Rover couldn't see clear to allow any slack at all. I am now convinced that the frayed end is actually a wire that was pulled free of the connector. I believe it to be C0168-1 (BY Black Yellow to the ECU pin 32 on connector C0636-32).

How the [email protected]#$% do I replace that connector? I found a parts kit for this (BWD | Part # PT5915 ), but again, “club-like hands” and lack of firewall to engine block clearance do not mix. Please do not tell me that I got to pull out the engine.

Oh by the way, While troubleshooting I also found bad plug wires and swapped them for the other D2. A big shout-out goes to the designers who thought up the idea of placing the coil-packs between the firewall and the engine block – GREAT JOB.
 

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Welcome to the club. Most of us agree with you about the coil packs and wires. You should get some good feedback about the wire; just be patient.

By the way do not complain about 10mpg; you will get flamed. We obviously bought these things for other reasons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the response.

Did you say 10MPG? "yeeehaa", that is way better than the 7MPG that my F250 ford gets today.

No problem on the Patients part. I did not buy the replacement part yet because i want to go tough a few scrap yards in Los Angeles first and see what this job could look like without an engine in the way. Maybe i will even bring some wire cutters just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i do not see any way to post a picture so i will just tell everyone who is looking for this answer that it going to be a "yes", you got to pull the engine to fix or replace a broken Crank Shaft Position sensor connector correctly.

There really is no more than four inches of cable length between the sensor connector bracket and the bolt holding the engine management wire loom to the back of the engine block. It looks like for me i am going to have to run my own wire (single pair with a shield) from the ECU to the new connector that i cut off a junker loom today while at the scrap yard.

Another big shout out to those design engineers who thought that was a good idea. Hope you are working in F1 or maybe NASA now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
UPDATE:

Cause i know that you are interested.

Spliced in the new Crank Shaft position sensor replacement cable since i could not possibly fix the broken wire from the old connector with out pulling the engine out.

Still crank no start - [email protected]#$ i was sure this time it would start.

Alright - regroup. What have i done over the past 2 months,

Replaced the Crank Shaft Posision sensor (three times).
Replaced all the relays at once from another 1999 Discovery 2.
Replaced all of the spark plugs from that same 1999 Discovery 2
Replaced 2 bad spark plug wires againe from that same 1999 Discovery 2.
--- Still crank , no start.
OK, went for fuel system problem, Here is what i found so far;
I open the fuel access panel in the back and disconnected the file line, got sprayed from the release of presser. Turn key onto ACC position - no fuel pumped, tried it again but this time going to crank - still no fuel pumped. Now went to relay location under the hood with the key on to ACC. Jumped the contact point that the relay was supposed to do and got fuel pumping. The relay is not being told to energize? why not ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If that i the button on the firewall? Yes. I also tool it off the car and checked it with a multimeter and it seems to switch (open and close) properly. Do those buttons ever fail? Could those look good and still be bad?

Just 5 minutes ago i walked into the garage and heard the vehicle’s compresses cycling (on about 4 seconds and off for about 2 minutes). Key in my pocket and not in the truck at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, that was a very informative video on how to swap out the Crank position sensor. I did see it before i did the work the first time and than reviewed it for confirmation the 2nd and 3rd time. I even now replaced the connector after find out that a wire had come out of the connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I can not just give up yet. I decided to throw the dice. Everything i have read suggests that an ECM/DCU swap is dangerous and not likely to fix my problem (crank no spark, no fuel pump for two seconds bump, no start). Today it worked. Discovery 2 now runs. pulled the ECM/DCU and ABS computers out of the donor truck and put ECM/DCU as a pair into the broken truck and waited for a few minutes with the key switch the number 2 position until the bright red light turned off and this time it started. First time i ever hear it run. let it run for 30 minutes and check heat and AC, windows up and down, hazard and turn signals as well as exteriors lights. Replaced some bulbs but other then that - PERFECTION. Well except the blinking odometer. Donor trucks alarm fob now arms and disarms truck instead of original.

Thank you everybody for pitching in and helping me out with all of your great ideas and suggestions, i couldn't have done it without you.
 
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