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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, so we have replaced the starter, new wires, plugs, cap and rotor. In fact we just put on a new rotor because the one we put on with the new cap didn't work right (even had a weird wear spot on the back of it - guess it didn't fit right). When you turn the key, the fuel pump comes on. Crank it and the starter sounds strong and attempts to catch and can't. I can smell fuel under the hood when I open it. Took off the cap to take a look and the rotor is still attached no wearing or carbon on the connectors between the cap and rotor. I thought I read somewhere that the clear piece that the cap and rotor sit on can be taken off and cleaned. Is that right? And how do I do that? Could the wires be fouled out already - maybe they were cheap?
 

· I'd love to be in the Rat Patrol
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CurvyRover said:
Crank it and the starter sounds strong and attempts to catch and can't.
Okay are you sure you have spark? Did you pull off the coil wire and hold it near a grounded part to see if you have a healthy spark?
And can you explain the "attempts to catch part"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
"attempts to catch"

It sounds like it's about to start, but doesn't. But another thought occured. We drove it around with the right catalytic converter blown out, is it possible to foul out your plugs, wires and such driving it around when it barely runs? Yes, it was a stupid thing to do, but we had major rover withdrawl going on.

This is the CurvyRover wife part of the team and I'm quite mechanically inclined, understand the lingo, etc. My husband just left for Iraq again and the rover decided not to start on the day he left so I'm trying to figure out if I can fix this myself or have to find a mechanic who won't treat me like a stupid girl.
 

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This is a far cry, but what shape in the gear at the bottom of the distributer?...where it meets the cam..Just a thought
 

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CurvyRover said:
It sounds like it's about to start, but doesn't. But another thought occured. We drove it around with the right catalytic converter blown out, is it possible to foul out your plugs, wires and such driving it around when it barely runs?

Before changing plugs and wires again try this. Check for spark coming from the coil (check the end of the coil plug going to the cap). If you got spark there, then next step is to check for spark coming out of the cap and to the plugs (pull one of the wires off the plug end).

Also - the shaft on your distributor - does is move freely? can you spin it around? if so it may be broken (that's what happened to mine). The rotors on these tend to stick so when you pull them off they will often times damage the distributor by separating the shaft on the inside. A tip for future reference, the next time you change your rotor and it doesn't easily come up, just tap it down with a hammer and break it off with a chisel or pliers.

And, Yes it is also possible to have bad wires. But definately check your spark points. It sure does sound like an ignition problem to me so we just need to help you narrow down along the ignition system. Only a few places to lose it on these puppies so have faith.

I've been through almost exactly what you are experiencing, with exception of the catalytic converter and the fuel smell.

Now get outside and check that spark and let us know,
Lee Ann
 

· 94 Defender 90
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CurvyRover said:
It sounds like it's about to start, but doesn't. But another thought occured. We drove it around with the right catalytic converter blown out, is it possible to foul out your plugs, wires and such driving it around when it barely runs? Yes, it was a stupid thing to do, but we had major rover withdrawl going on.
Yes, that can foul your plugs. I'd check your plugs to see if they're arcing. If they're all black, they probably need replacement or cleaning (mind as well just buy new ones. not too expensive)
 

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May also want to check, clean and replace the connectors on your coil. I believe there are four, make sure they fit tightly and are clean, as well as where the the two connector terminals screw onto the coil.
 

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Check your air gap in the dizzy, it might be out of adjustment. When Mine was out of adjustment car would barely start and would hunt for idle. You can check the air gap by using a non ferrous feeler gauge to 0.20 mm or .008-.014 in. Air gap is the gap between the reluctor or star and pickup. I would also check the wires in the dizzy, they might be worn as the plate moves back and forth with advance causing wear to the wires if they are touching.
:beer:
 
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