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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just cant keep this thing running cool
my question to all is, are there any parts on this thing worth selling. or am i just screwed
10/98 DOP engine has been run hot at least 5 times. was trying to see what would solve it if i decided to get a gen 1
i replaced entire cooling system and tank cap. to no avail.
 

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Did you replace the radiator and the water pump?

Have you pulled the block plugs to see what drained out? Flushed the block?

Whatever it is, it's likely simple. Either you'll find it or the next guy will get an awesome deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you replace the radiator and the water pump?

Have you pulled the block plugs to see what drained out? Flushed the block?

Whatever it is, it's likely simple. Either you'll find it or the next guy will get an awesome deal.
replaced radiator, thermostat, water pump, tank cap
what block plugs

water is circulating
 

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No. There are screw-in block drain plugs down low on the angled portion of the engine block. I wouldn't know how with an aluminum engine, but there may be crud in the bottom of the jackets.

There's something wrong and it's not that complicated.

How hot is it there? Explain in detail the conditions when it's overheating. Are you losing coolant?

I have to hit the road for a quick trip and won't be back until about this time tomorrow. There are others that can help you aside from me. If you want to fix the truck, we'll hang in there and help you find the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No. There are screw-in block drain plugs down low on the angled portion of the engine block. I wouldn't know how with an aluminum engine, but there may be crud in the bottom of the jackets.

There's something wrong and it's not that complicated.

How hot is it there? Explain in detail the conditions when it's overheating. Are you losing coolant?

I have to hit the road for a quick trip and won't be back until about this time tomorrow. There are others that can help you aside from me. If you want to fix the truck, we'll hang in there and help you find the problem.

no over heat yet, i will look for block plugs. no real coolant loss. no smell of coolant when hot. very cool northern east coast spring, go to store fine, come back from store runs hot. no traffic, no uphill or exsertion beyond 40 mph driving. avg 50 to 60 f ambient outside temp
 

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Heater core clogged, throttle body pre heater clogged, Fan clutch not running properly.
did you try these?
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Heater core clogged, throttle body pre heater clogged, Fan clutch not running properly.
did you try these?
Dave
yes, actually bypassed throttle body pre heater due to epic desintigration, heater core fine.
I might just tear off the top end, just concerned about motor issues. not sure i shoud do head gaskets and have it be toast.
runs great, just gets hot.
too many contradictions in the quality of these engines.
 

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Off what I have read from experience LR mechanics. Those V8 blocks from about 95 on where the last of the batch that LR was making. The blade cutting out the block where the piston selves are placed was dull by this point, and never sharpened making the cuts porous. Once the block overheats coolant gets in between the sleeves and the block and there goes the sleeve letting coolant slip through till the sleeves begin to slip. The 4.6 is probably the worst of the block bunch. Only fix is top hat blocks. Then there is the Dex-cool corroding the system and the fact that to pass smog and US inspection the truck needs to run at a high temperature close to over heating. Its a system ready to fail if not looked after at all times.
Dave
 

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Mine ran not (227 at idle) but never overheated. I did the obvious: new radiator, water pump, 180 degree thermostat and hoses. Now it won't get above 206. In fact, with the a/c on, at idle it will get to 206 and then cool down to 200. I think you need a new cooling system. Spend $300 and a weekend and you should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mine ran not (227 at idle) but never overheated. I did the obvious: new radiator, water pump, 180 degree thermostat and hoses. Now it won't get above 206. In fact, with the a/c on, at idle it will get to 206 and then cool down to 200. I think you need a new cooling system. Spend $300 and a weekend and you should be good.

as it states in top of post, did that
 

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Need exact details. Is it overheating sitting or at 70MPH? Light load/heavy load?

If it's not leaking you either aren't circulating water properly or not moving enough air. The new Tstat could be bad. The new radiator could be clogged- maybe with whatever was in the cooling system before you swapped it out? The engine's water passages could be blocked. Or the clutch fan could be bad.

And if you don't want to spring for an OBD gauge and don't own a scanner, at least go buy a $15 digital thermometer from the kitchen section at Walmart. Hold it firmly against a hose and tell us what the actual temp is. There's a reason they call them Idiot Lights.
 

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You do know that the factory gauge does not move in increments? By the time it moves from normal to hot, you are overheated. Four or five times? Might invest in a third party gauge; maybe one that plugs into the OBDII socket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Need exact details. Is it overheating sitting or at 70MPH? Light load/heavy load?

If it's not leaking you either aren't circulating water properly or not moving enough air. The new Tstat could be bad. The new radiator could be clogged- maybe with whatever was in the cooling system before you swapped it out? The engine's water passages could be blocked. Or the clutch fan could be bad.

And if you don't want to spring for an OBD gauge and don't own a scanner, at least go buy a $15 digital thermometer from the kitchen section at Walmart. Hold it firmly against a hose and tell us what the actual temp is. There's a reason they call them Idiot Lights.
read the post, its all in there
this isnt a saving thread, its a whats worth taking off and selling
 
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