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Well it sounds like that’s an issue worth raising with your vendor then?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
GKN driveshaft is on back order, will take a couple of weeks to get. I started searching the coolant leak, there’s some dried residue where thermostat tube connects to the engine and around thermostat housing gasket.

Anyone have issues with aftermarket thermostat housing?
Trying to decide if genuine is worth the extra $$$
 

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When it comes to cooling on a D2, you need OEM or better… it’s barely adequate from the factory and any compromise in quality could prove troublesome. I know the D3 is a different animal, but it’s still sage advice
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
When it comes to cooling on a D2, you need OEM or better… it’s barely adequate from the factory and any compromise in quality could prove troublesome. I know the D3 is a different animal, but it’s still sage advice
Agree. After some searching I found a genuine LR thermostat assembly for the same price as aftermarket. It’s coming in a few days and I got full set of radiator hoses and serpentine belts to take care of the recommended maintenance. With the hoses and thermostat out, belts should be much easier to access.

I wire brushed all of the surface rust in the back and coated it with Eastwood rust encapsulator. Not an easy job on LR3, so many tubes and wiring. I did the best I could around the wires without taking anything off. The frame is solid, most troublesome spots are under plastic rocker covers on the body. Once it’s on the road I may take it a body shop to get a quote, too much dust and chemical smells to deal with in a home garage. I will touchup some spots on the frame and will scrub and repaint the skid plates since they are off the truck anyway.

Before (forgot to take one with the spare off)
93196
93195

after (haven’t touched the trailer hitch, bumper needs to come off for that. And it’s upside down)
93194
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
A late night yesterday, new brake lines are hooked up and all rubber brake hoses replaced. It has brakes but no drive, still waiting on the replacement shaft.

Anyone know what diameter bolts should be used on the exhaust connector?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Another productive evening, LR3 maybe standing on its own 4 wheels soon.
Bled the brakes and pumped out all of the old fluid, no leaks and the pedal is firm.
No leaks from the union, was a little nervous first time flaring the lines.
I highly recommend Bavarian Autosport flaring tool On-Vehicle Micro Brake Pipe Flaring Tool - Bavarian Autosport

it’s easy to use and pretty good quality. And it does European DIN flare as well as SAE double flare. Brake line unions are from NAPA
93263


new GKN drive shaft is in
93265


old one is in ok shape except for the center bearing. If you are in western NY and would like to rebuild one, it’s yours. Let me know before I scrap it.
93266
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Took off the front right liner to remove anad rebuild front valve block. I noticed a loose TPMS antenna, what should it be attached to?

also a cracked body mount, seems to be common according to disco 3 forum

93307
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
TPMS antenna is back in place with the liner reassembled.
I finally worked up the courage to do transmission pan conversion. I will fill it up this week, fingers crossed it does not leak anywhere.

After cleaning up the area I think the leak was coming from transmission wiring sleeve, not the transfer case. Will need to keep an eye on those fluid levels to rule it out completely. I plan on doing transfer case fluid after the trans is filled up, front and rear diffs already done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
Off the jack stands finally! Took it for a spin down the street, it drives and transmission shifts. It’s alive!!!!

Suspension went up however slow to rise error message persists after compressor filter change and rebuilding all of the valve blocks. cheap fix didn’t work, the compressor must be weak.

I am battling a minor transmission pan leak after conversion but for now the work is moving under the hood.

cleaned up gas tank skid plate, looks pretty good with a new coat of paint.






33015698-7DF3-48E5-B482-B7BC320E17BE.jpeg image.jpg
 

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The compressor rebuild kit is really the way to go if you still have an OEM compressor. The aftermarket compressors are disposable
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I have AMK compressor, which unfortunately is not rebuildable. It looks old, not sure if original.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I was going to replace belts and thermostat housing along with the coolant hoses last weekend but couldn’t get past removing the cooling fan.
My BMW pulley holder tool was no help. Pulley bolts are too far apart. Although it does not appear to be corroded the nut is stuck on there pretty good. It’s taking a PB blaster bath and hope this tool helps. Any tips?

 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
This old floor jack did the trick, it fit perfectly between the pulley holder and the wrench. After a few cranks the fan clutch nut loosened and came right off
93521
 
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