Land Rover and Range Rover Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
very disco
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
ok so i took the plunge and purchased this 2006 range rover sport from a local dealer who bit off more than they could chew. they advertised it with a suspension fault, and it's clearly sitting low.

IMG_EF32415D054D-1.jpg

it's got a few other problems:


two front windows don't roll up or down

parking brake is inoperable, always has orange and red dummy lights on the dash

alarm likes to kick on randomly. even while driving. when the alarm kicks on (while driving) the radio/LCD power off and the turn signals stop working... seems to be related to a faulty door or hood sensor. when the alarm engages while driving, the dome lights turn on. i did for a BRIEF moment see a "hood open" warning on the message center, peppered in between suspension fault and brake fault warnings. actually, the alarm just went off by itself in the driveway. i did pop the connector off of the hood latch and short the pins together, but it didn't seem to help.

before i go starting individual threads for each issue, i welcome all thoughts across the topic.

BTW, i never cared for the RRS, but i must admit it's growing on me.
 

·
very disco
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Little bit from column A, little bit from column B.

I’ve already restored the front window operations by correcting some crap in the door sill loom.

Are there any direct references corrosion/poor grounds for parking brake fault or suspension fault?
 

·
very disco
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I’ll also add that the parking brake seems to be working now, and the amber brake light comes and goes from the dash. I can hear it engage and disengage, but if I let the car roll a little bit it won’t engage until I shift out and back into park.
 

·
Bleeds Green
Joined
·
83 Posts
Have you replaced the battery? You could chase a lot of electrical anomalies caused by low voltage. These things really do freak out when a battery is bad. If you have replaced it already, I recommend checking the alternator next. I just had to replace mine. It went out during a July 4th trip to Colorado which put my Range in the Colorado Springs LR dealership instead of on the trails. Sigh...

The last parking brake failure I had was when one side got stuck on while in the mountains. It cooked the disc and darn near made it shatter. Nothing I could do about it on the trail. I visited the LR dealer in Glenwood Springs (they were awesome, by the way). Cost $1700 for the system repair, new discs and pads. I could see your issue being related to low voltage if it isn't engaging properly.

When my alternator failed recently I got faults from the following systems: transmission, ACE, HDC, brakes (both yellow and red in the dash) and suspension. My cruise control wouldn't work, etc. Basically, everything freaked out because the computers weren't getting enough voltage.

I highly recommend purchasing an IID Tool from GAP Diagnostics. It gives you good info about what's going on with your Range. You can test individual bags on your Range with this tool to see if any of them are bad. There are a number of other awesome features that make it worth the money as well.
 

·
very disco
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
thanks for that. i haven't replaced the battery as it tests out just fine and the system voltage tests well when running. i'm still thinking about doing it anyway...
my EPB error comes from releasing not setting the brake.

i have a nanocom EVO on the way, and in the meantime amazon will be delivering the LR foxwell device today.
hopefully i can pull some codes to point me in a direction.

i do have a new brake switch arriving today.

i connected a brand new hitachi air compressor yesterday and it exhibits the same issue, running for 1-5 seconds and then shutting off.
 

·
Bleeds Green
Joined
·
83 Posts
I'll be interested to hear about the brake switch. Perhaps your suspension height switch is bad too? Maybe someone spilled their drink in the center console and ruined both switches causing the weird behavior? I hate throwing parts at a car, but sometimes you have to with intermittent electrical faults.

What's your system voltage when running? Mine runs at 14.2v-14.4v.

Did you replace the dryer when you replaced the air compressor?

Exactly which brake light is illuminated in the dash - the one that says "BRAKE" or is it the other system brake light?
 

·
very disco
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
system voltage is comparable, low-mid 14V when idle.

i rebuilt the existing compressor/dryer and then replaced it with all new... no satisfaction.
i never thought to suspect the switch assembly, but the car is slammed to the ground and it knows it needs to raise... it attempts to raise as soon as i start the car, but it errors out immediately.

excited to pull some codes this evening.

i'm currently EPB error free, but when i have the error it's both the amber and red ones plus a little blurb in the message center.
 

·
Bleeds Green
Joined
·
83 Posts
Ah - you're probably good on voltage then assuming the battery gives enough to all the systems at startup until the alternator gets to its proper output.

I look forward to hearing your suspension fault codes. Can you make it raise at all or does it immediately fail? Could be a height sensor?
 

·
very disco
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
the compressor will run for anywhere from 1-10 seconds before shutting off, though it's predominantly 1-2 seconds.
i don't believe the height sensors are faulty, as i have the 4x4 display and all of the sensors are accurately reporting the dumped status of the truck. when i jack up various areas of the truck, the sensors then report the changes in wheel position appropriately.

it won't raise at all. i've thought about refitting the compressor and manually powering it to lift the truck up, but that would only raise the truck and wouldn't serve the purpose of diagnostics.

i did replace the compressor relay, and i noticed that the relay socket looked a little melty... just a little.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,436 Posts
i've thought about refitting the compressor and manually powering it to lift the truck up, but that would only raise the truck and wouldn't serve the purpose of diagnostics.
Powering the compresor won't help cos it will just pump itself cos to raise the vehicle the air supply valves for the springs must open which doesnt happen when you simply power up the compressor... IMO it cuts out cos the valves dont open for some reason(management or electrical) then the pressure sensor cuts the feed of the compressor to protect it... another possibility is that the compressor's temperature sensor is making tricks cos the management cuts the feed based on that sensor's input, there are some conditions when the ECU inhibits the compressor operation based on various inputs and if one of those is out it will cut the feed, read the system's description if you want to DIY cos it's complicated, see "System inhibits" i attached the doc: https://docdro.id/yq7uJqs
 

·
very disco
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
i have connected (electrically, not with airlines) a brand new compressor, not running lines to d-blocks etc. there is some electrical fault telling it to shut off, and i believe it's on the car not the pump considering the brand new pump has a brand new temp sensor.
 

·
Bleeds Green
Joined
·
83 Posts
... another possibility is that the compressor's temperature sensor...
When the temp sensor reads that the pump is too hot a message will display in the dash saying that the system is too hot and is cooling. I got this one a couple weeks ago when I was leveling my suspension. The pump was running a ton and it was really hot out. Unless you're seeing that message in the dash, it's probably not the temp sensor.

Now the air distribution block... that's a thought. Your code reader should tell you of the specific error, maybe it's that.

FYI - a completely different topic, but on your new Range, you should inspect the fuel tank cradle. It's all metal and actually holds up the fuel tank. Mine completely rotted and if it fully failed it would have dragged my fuel tank on the ground.
 

·
very disco
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I’m not convinced that the d blocks or lines are bad... well at least I’m not convinced that they have anything to do with the compressor kicking off immediately. All I get is “suspension fault, special modes unavailable” message. Nothing regarding temp. The compressor is currently pumping air out into the atmosphere so there’s no obstruction or clog causing this fault. I had hoped that maybe the old compressor was drawing too many amps for the relay, but a new compressor and relay yields no change.

It looks like the harnesses running beneath the door sills have seen a lot of water. I wonder if there are any wiring faults pertaining to EAS common to flooding of the sills. My front windows weren’t working due to water damaged harnesses in the passenger sill. I couldn’t very well trace the harness from the compressor, but it appears to enter the cabin beneath the driver seat.

Thanks for the heads up on the tank brace. I’ll check that when I can get this mofo to allow me to slide beneath it lol.
 

·
Bleeds Green
Joined
·
83 Posts
The compressor is currently pumping air out into the atmosphere
The system monitors the pressure in the air tank and if it's not increasing at an expected rate it'll kill the pump, drop it to access height and report a system fault. My first pump was getting weak and not making the required pressure "in time" so the system was killing the pump and dropping to access height. REALLLLY bad idea on the part of LR because it happened on the highway once and made the handling very dangerous - darn near undrivable at 70mph. I'd hook up the air lines to see what happens. Could very well be an electrical gremlin from water but at this point you can't really go any farther because the air system isn't getting what it's expecting from the pump if it's not hooked up.
 

·
very disco
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
right, but from what i've read, the compressor will run for some time looking for a pressure increase. this compressor is shutting off almost instantly, and if the air lines were in fact plumbed, it wouldn't be enough time to generate pressure at all. on a few rare occasions, i've seen it run for up to 10-15 seconds, but the vast majority of attempts last 1sec or less.

if my darned foxwell would show up i would go pull codes right now. nanocom finally took my money for the EVO tool, but they won't ship until tomorrow and i'll be lucky to get it before the weekend, likely to see it next week.
 

·
very disco
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
blah. installed my new brake switch, that didn't help either hehe. it was a stab in the dark, but people report all sorts of wackiness when those are bad
 

·
very disco
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
ok so...

just about every module on the truck has a "lost comm" error. i'm assuming those are stored codes from a flat battery recently.

i cleared all codes from the air ride module and restarted the truck, and the only one that came back was C1 A35-01 Reservoir Valve

oddly though, now the truck seems to be locked in some security mode. it won't start, and when i turn the ignition on, the hazards flash. Attempting to access some modules gives a "security access failed"

I queried the BCM and got:
B1 B02-28/P Low Frequency Coil
B1 BA0-66/P Suspicious Starting Activity
B1 C57-14/P Unused Relay Drive

That happened to me before, I just disconnected the battery for a few min and everything was fine, so i'm not too worried about doing that again.

Before i cleared the EAS codes, it had everything in there... reservoir valve, pressure increasing too slowly, pressure increasing too rapidly, air supply, and "invalid data received from VDC module"

i found the master reset of all codes... it got them all except the EPB code, which won't clear for some reason. now the truck keeps going into some alarmed state. i give up for the night. going to mount up the new compressor tomorrow and plumb all the lines, probably replace the brake light bulbs and throw a new battery in just for shits.
 

·
very disco
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
i think i've been looking through the wrong end of the telescope on this one...

i replumbed the new compressor and and got the same code regarding the solenoid valve.
downloaded some shop manuals and other resources, and they all say to replace the valve block, which i pulled apart and went through. the solenoid works, the diaphragm that it actuates works... the only thing i didn't test was the pressure sensor... but i wasn't receiving any pressure related codes.

i'm leaning toward computer issues now... i was able to snag a very nice workshop manual, but it's for RHD TD models... a lot of schematic and troubleshooting is good, but location of components not so accurate.

can anybody definitively state where the EAS computer is on NAS 2006 RRS 4.4 petrol?
 

·
very disco
Joined
·
635 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
just to update everybody, the massive faults i was receiving were all due to a failing IPC. i was able to fit a used IPC to the vehicle, and all codes except one related to EAS are gone.

to everybody who says you cannot fit a used IPC i say YOU CAN

91436
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top