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Discussion Starter #1
I just ordered front and rear ceramic Akebono (sp?) brakes from Amazon as I have been advised here on the forum.

What other brake concerns *may* I have to consider at 137K miles? Worn hoses, rotors?

I've examined my rotors and they *appear* to be in good condition, but I'm an amateur, so are there any technicalities I need to be aware of?

Thanks everyone.
 

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As a general rule, rotors should be refinished if not replaced. Warpage, hot spots are difficult to visually detect unless they are severe.
At that mileage sticky calliper pistons, leaks, slider pins seized are a possibility.
What is yor vehicle .... Year..... Model..... What type of use?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
As a general rule, rotors should be refinished if not replaced. Warpage, hot spots are difficult to visually detect unless they are severe.
At that mileage sticky calliper pistons, leaks, slider pins seized are a possibility.
What is yor vehicle .... Year..... Model..... What type of use?
2001 Discovery II, 137K miles, very light use (no off-roading), used primarily to commute to college just 1.5 miles away, to work on weekends 20 miles away.
 

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What concerns do you have with the brakes, squealing, grinding, vibration?....
Theses pads that you have been recommended are good quality.
Some of the guys on this site are SERIOUS off roaders and work their trucks a whole bunch more than you driving to school.
So
Why are you going to replace them
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What concerns do you have with the brakes, squealing, grinding, vibration?....
Theses pads that you have been recommended are good quality.
Some of the guys on this site are SERIOUS off roaders and work their trucks a whole bunch more than you driving to school.
So
Why are you going to replace them
Replacing my current pads as they are most obviously worn - quite thin, actually.

Plus (due to the previous owner) prolonged non-replacement has resulted in low brake fluid. There are no leaks in the system, just overuse of fluid due to thinning pads.

Finally, as of last week, I've begun to hear the well-known "grinding" noise, so it's time for a brake job. :)
 

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If its grinding you need rotors for sure!
You should probably check disco mikes list of maintenance including fluids and front driveshaft rebuild before yours buggers up big time!
These are great trucks but if you don't maintain them well they can end up with big problems with big expenses especially if you are not able to do the work yourself
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If its grinding you need rotors for sure!
You should probably check disco mikes list of maintenance including fluids and front driveshaft rebuild before yours buggers up big time!
These are great trucks but if you don't maintain them well they can end up with big problems with big expenses especially if you are not able to do the work yourself
Well, it's not grinding per se, more like the very recognizable "crying" that pads do when they are worn and in need of replacing. Sorry for the wrong terminology.
 

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First, just to set the record straight, you never turn Rover rotors, the metal is to soft and they are too this to turn due to their thickness.
As for what else to do, your 6 rubber brakes hoses are way to warn at your mileage and should be replaced along with doing a 2 quart DOT 4 brake flush.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
First, just to set the record straight, you never turn Rover rotors, the metal is to soft and they are too this to turn due to their thickness.
As for what else to do, your 6 rubber brakes hoses are way to warn at your mileage and should be replaced along with doing a 2 quart DOT 4 brake flush.
So possibly new rotors and rubber hoses? How do I inspect these items for their condition? I ask because the previous owner may have replaced any one of these brake-related items.
 

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As a general rule, rotors should be refinished if not replaced. Warpage, hot spots are difficult to visually detect unless they are severe.

I was speaking in general terms. I agree that it is preferable to replace rotors but not impossible to resurface. Never say never ?
As for condemning brake hoses based on mileage alone...... I disagree there too.
Not knowing whether they have been replaceed by previous owner they should be checked for cracking, bulges and any other signs of visual deformity
 

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So what do others say? I said my opinion
 

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disco biscuit
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I think turning rotors was good when they were expensive. Now I think you can get new ones for 30$ a piece compared to what ten a piece to turn.

The theory here is the rotors were softer than normal to provide extra stopping power to an already undersized system. Also a difference compared to other vehicles you may be uses to working on is the traction control system. Other manufacturers use tq limiting technology to control wheel spin. What makes our system so dominate is use of the brakes instead. This results in more violent brake action. Case in point... Fist thing I did with my disco is run it down a pipeline and see if it really was a capable 4x4. In the mud and not familiar with the vehicle specifics...I drove it like my old ones and floored it in the sloppy mud. This hammer on it method results in wheel spin and mine pulses using this method. You can feel the brakes pulsating hard and alternatively from wheel to wheel to find traction. I warped a set of rotors within 3 weeks of owning it. The p.o. had an Indy shop do the brakes, I have a receipt, and they used cheap crap rotors. I believe the rotors are to thin by design thin em out more and these hot spots mentioned become apparent especially when offroad.

I think you should get them turned...try it out. Then take it all back apart later and change them after they warp, it at least you saved 20$...
People here give advice. Use it or not...I would like to hear your experience with it, this is my reason evidenced by a single experience. These rotors warp easy and its a waste of time and money to turn them. I think its a waste of time to turn em on any vehicle. They're so cheap now to buy new...and manufacturers know this and a lot of new cars are un serviceable.
 

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I am correct when I say you never cut Rovers. I be no one on the thread has ever measured the rotors after a rough cut and a finishing cut, cause if you had you would find you were now under factory specs.
As for the rubber brake hoses, once you clear,100,000 miles including a fair amount of wheeling, the rubber hoses have a tendency to become soft and swell when pressure is applied those not allowing all the brake pressure to go thru to the caliper.
Ask anyone who have replaced their hoses and all will tell you of the improved stopping power. especially when replacing them with stain less steel lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I am correct when I say you never cut Rovers. I be no one on the thread has ever measured the rotors after a rough cut and a finishing cut, cause if you had you would find you were now under factory specs.
As for the rubber brake hoses, once you clear,100,000 miles including a fair amount of wheeling, the rubber hoses have a tendency to become soft and swell when pressure is applied those not allowing all the brake pressure to go thru to the caliper.
Ask anyone who have replaced their hoses and all will tell you of the improved stopping power. especially when replacing them with stain less steel lines.
Thanks Mike for the clarification. You sir, are awesome! :)
 

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So
After reading the other thread you started about " spending serious money" on your D2
Question why you never even asked about rotors?
If you are looking at spending big bucks order calipers rotors and a master cylinder too because they may fail at that mileage
You never know............
Some mechanics call it E.G.R. .. Everything Gets Replaced!
��
 

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disco biscuit
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I dont know if I'd go that far. I bought ebc rotors, akebono pads and my sliders had to be hammered out so I bought life time warranty reman calipers from somewhere. It cost me around 650$ for all. The rotors and pads I got from parts geek which is a really good deal.

The brake lines should be inspected and really don't cost that much while your bleeding. It is highly reccomended for safety reasons. I can tell you my Powerstroke had 265k mi when I changed the lines (rubber), it made a stopping difference....they didnt swelI much but the black rubber wear was evident in the master cylinder which had been changed at 200...wouldn't have gone out without the rubber residual. I kept the ones on my disco after inspection but regret it now. Stainless reinforced extended ones while your there...then 2" lift and extended shocks...??

The master cylinder should be flushed and inspected more often than people do but my 04 has 160k mi on it and flushed a couple times but needed no replacement.

At this point in all this I think maybe you were being sarcastic redtruck... I don't like being a parts charger but, sometimes...while your there its stupid to save 100$, or hell three, immediately, and have to work on it 1 yr later. Bleeding brakes sucks.
 

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I am correct when I say you never cut Rovers. I be no one on the thread has ever measured the rotors after a rough cut and a finishing cut, cause if you had you would find you were now under factory specs.
As for the rubber brake hoses, once you clear,100,000 miles including a fair amount of wheeling, the rubber hoses have a tendency to become soft and swell when pressure is applied those not allowing all the brake pressure to go thru to the caliper.
Ask anyone who have replaced their hoses and all will tell you of the improved stopping power. especially when replacing them with stain less steel lines.
There is not one publication by land rover ever stating that you can not turn their rotors...this is false information. Do you really think these rotors are made of some special material that's too soft to be turned? not a chance. In every set of brake pads I have ever replaced on a land rover (and I have done a lot, I am willing to bet way more than yourself) 95% of the time the rotors were well above spec and perfectly capable of making it through another set of pads.

You are right about the brake lines. BUT land rover says to check them once a year and RECONMENDED replacement at 90k or 6 years. ;)

oh and thanks for your "visitor message" disco mike is that supposed to be some sort of threat? I don't care what you think you did for however long you think you did it. If the info is wrong, the info is wrong.
 

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disco biscuit
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Have you turned yours? What was the finish cut thickness? I think thinnest within specs is 12-13mm. I tried to add to that too by giving a personal experience of why I think they would warp. Added stress due to the braking system style traction control was my warping experience with cheap full thickness replacements. So you turned yours or what. I'm all down to save money...your gonna have to say yes I turn mine. When I researched mine I saw nothing but posts from this forum and others, from not just disco mike but others too, saying they warp and show hot spots. Have you turned your d2 rotors or just talking? I haven't seen any publication from LR saying not too. Then again I've never seen any manufacturer say turn or not turn. I found a post show the rave giving minimum thicknesses. But I doubt any manufacturer actually endorses turning their rotors. How could they form safety liability reasons....call or find one company that says, yes its okay to turn our rotors.
 

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Yes I was being sarcastic.
I would like to add that just because genuine land rover rotors may be softer than the norm. Doesn't mean that the replacement ones ( probably from china) are of the same material and quality. Be careful what you buy. good rotors are not $20 each
 
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