[Toran]

Hello Good People,

Did a search and now I need your help again.
I only have a key to lock/unlock doors.
Last week I could not lock the driver door with the key. I had to shut the door and manually do it from the passenger side.

The key can unlock the driver door
The key can lock/unlock the passenger door.

What exactly should I be looking for when I pull the door panel?

T.I.A.

 

[redtruck12]

Have you tried lubricating the heck out of it and working the lock back and forth? (Assuming it is not moving properly) have you tried a spare /other key (if you have one)?

 

[Toran]

Yes I did lube it pretty good and tried a spare key but no success.
It will unlock but not lock

 

[Toran]

Some additional info is:
1. The alarm will not activate as a result of not being able to lock the driver door.
2. When unlocking the driver door the interior dome light blinks.

Thanks

 

[Toran]

**UPDATE**
I got a remote working that can lock and unlock the door.
Still the key will not lock and arm the car.

With that said, what should I be looking for?

T.I.A.

 

[squaretaper]

Just bought a 96 D1 with the same issue. If you pull the interior door panel, you can see the lock mech. On mine, the black plastic part that drives the rod that actuates the locking latch had split and was no longer driven by the rotation of the key cylinder. (looking at the cylinder, there is a yellow zinc coated steel C-ring, then a plastic disk with a bump that engages a momentary switch, then behind it the part that drives the actuating rod- these break) It seems that these parts are not available alone; people buy replacement assemblies for just that part- around $70.

I epoxied mine up and we'll se how it does- I took dimensions and modeled it in cad so I'll get around to CNCing an alloy replacement if need be.

 

[Toran]

Thanks squaretaper!
I will apply that new insight!

 

[squaretaper]

no problem- FYI the expoy didn't hold so I made a new part out of aluminum. see pic.

Lubing all the lock linkages and the latch helped the whole system work easier- I suspect that's why the part broke originally. That and it was **** plastic instead of steel or alu that cost .04£ more.

 

[Toran]

Auhhh nice image!
Now I know to get in there and give everything a good lube.
How annoying to replace these plastic pieces that should have been made from something more durable!
How long did it take/cost you to make that part? (hint hint)

 

[squaretaper]

Took an hour- cut a slice of 6061 tube that was close to the right ID with the tab that interfaces with the plastic disk that turns with the key. Filed and sanded for needed clearances and stops. Then turned a shim from 1" round stock to fit the pot metal part. Welded a chunk of 3/16" plate and cut and drilled it for the actuator arm. Glued the shim in and off to the races

 

[squaretaper]

I did take measurements with the mic and I'm meaning to make a 3D model so it could be 3D printed from sintered steel or CNCed from alloy or other. Seems a shame to have to buy a whole lock assembly for a crappy piece of plastic

 

[Toran]

Nice!