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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay i have been having a problem on and off again with getting my key to turn. Sometimes I have to play around with it for 5 mins and other times it will go for days without a problem. I went to get a second key made today and asked them about it. They said it sounds like the past ownere might have had a heavy set of keys and the cylinder needs to be fixed up. They said they can do it and I trust them as they are one of the best around, but that it would be cheaper if I take the cylinder out. So that brings me to the question how do I take it out without messing anything up? I havent looked at it yet, but you guys know of any tricks to get it out let me know. I will be doing this after the holidays.
 

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This what I know based on a Defender Ign switch/steering column lock.

The key tumbler is inside a diecast barrel bolted to the steering column. This barrel is held in place by two tamperproof bolts, whose heads are intended to snap off when tightened. Then, getting the bolts out requires drilling a pilot hole and using an extractor. Underneath the radiused surface of the lock mechanism (not accessible till the unit is off the column) is a hole where you can insert a punch, nail or other small diameter rod, and press in the retainer. once this is done, the whole tumbler can be removed, straight out.
I suspect the diecasting may be different as there is some sort of solinoid, actuated by the shift lever, which prevents the key from being removed if the shift lever is not in Park.
In the FWIW dept, this park interlock is usually the culprit when you find you can't get the key out. The little microswitch, under the shift facia can self destruct.
 

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I have a photo that might help

I tried to attach it here, but if it isn't attached, email me at [email protected] and I'll email it to you. I had trouble with the ignition on my 97 landrover. The key would sometimes work and sometimes, not. I tried to get a new one made and the Landrover guy said the ignitions wear out and have to be replaced. Wow! They are pricey! I checked several places to find one, but for the minimal dollar savings decided the new Landrover one was the way to go. It isn't that difficult to replace, but having the photo helps. The shear bolts are not a problem best I can remember. Be sure to disconnect the battery before messing with it...air bags are dangerous.
 

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apbtpetey said:
Okay i have been having a problem on and off again with getting my key to turn. Sometimes I have to play around with it for 5 mins and other times it will go for days without a problem.
I usually find my (third-hand) key only works with the indentation facing toward the driver. When I put the key in the other way(don't start with the jokes, fellas), the key goes in, just won't turn the lock.

If you expierence what I expierence, then why not file a mark on the bakelite handle or place a hilighted mark so it will work every time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Adam in NYC USA said:
I usually find my (third-hand) key only works with the indentation facing toward the driver. When I put the key in the other way(don't start with the jokes, fellas), the key goes in, just won't turn the lock.

If you expierence what I expierence, then why not file a mark on the bakelite handle or place a hilighted mark so it will work every time?

My problem happens with both sides of the key. It will not happen for days, then other times it will happen every time I try to start the thing.
 

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Try this

Try putting that crushed graphite stuff if the cylinder. It comes in a little tube. Put a couple squirts of the graphite powder in there, stick the key in and out a few times and give it a whirl.

It worked on my 97 D1.
 
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