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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello from the east Coast,

I have several issues that all started at the same time, I wonder if any one could help me get this straight.

1: Head Gaskets leaking on both sides of block, thick oil drip build up dipping on both sides.

2: Phantom coolant leak from rear passenger side of engine. Might be a heat core, might be the engine; have not located source.

3: Oil leak from a casting port or oil something something port ? looks to be coming from behind passenger engine mount. Not above. ( have Photos to show these little black Allen head bolts on both sides of the engine with wire daisy chained together. )

4: and then there was the knocking ..... Only started a few weeks ago and dose not appear until engine is hot. While idling the other day, you can hear is almost and maybe disappear after 10 mins of running.

I have already started to pull my engine apart with my Brother who is ASE certified. So far we are down to the bock, heads removed and packed away in bins with soft newspaper. Vary clean BTW. we have not found any issues that stand out so far. I just saw this : " Sticky: A"MUST Read For Anyone About to Repair a Head Gaskets or a Valve Train Noise. (Multi-page thread 1 2) - Disco Mike " I will continue reading it.

There may have been one or both leaks on the exhaust manifolds, bolts a bit lose on block. One bolt look snapped off the down pipe connecting to the Cat. read you can here knocking from that ? Im pretty sure they have been lose for a while on or just on the down pipe. I been hearing loud exhaust for a while.m (no knocking ) Been on my to-do list.

I have read many horrible stories of bad engines in the 2003, people have lasted every thing to mixed metals, oil pumps to bearings; to much information and no point think negative.


So questions: Is there a upgraded head gasket set and seal kit ?

Also I head there was an issues with oil pumps, Maybe that's the knocking ? If so, are there upgraded ones? I am out of range for the really bad ones, but found little on what that means ? SALTY1647 3A818175
Reading info here and others " http://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/vin-range-oil-pump-29475/ "


I have read many horrible stories of bad engines in the 2003, people have lasted every thing to mixed metals, oil pumps to bearings; to much information and no point think negative.
*2003 Disco, 103, miles
 

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wjsj69
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What you've shown in your pics is someone's attempt at "pinning" the cylinder sleeves (or liners) to try to keep them from moving. Those bolts go through the block and bottom of the cylinder liners. A previous owner probably heard a tick or knock and thought pinning would keep the liners in place. It probably wasn't since you still have a knock. I would need to make sure the job was done right by pulling the oil pan and checking their work. Hopefully they used loctite on the bolts, but they could still leak or come loose as there isn't much room for threads to grab and stay put there.
The knock could be any number of things like a flex plate, lifter, rod, etc. You should have an oil pressure gauge installed in case the pump fails, and a water temp. gauge in case of overheat (that's how the liners come loose) but unless you're gonna pull the engine and inspect everything, be prepared to live with it; most engines will go thousands of miles with a minor knock as long as you keep up on oil changes. Since you have the heads off, I would do as much as possible while your there; the timing cover is known to leak and houses the oil pump so you should check it and replace the timing chain and gears too.

As far as head gaskets go, you can use this kit: Land Rover Head Gasket Kit (Same Fit As Part # STC4082): Rover Engine Parts

That should cover your coolant leak if it's from the block. If it was the heater core, you would see it on the engine side, but they usually leak on the inside onto your floor.

Also consider ARP Head studs; most agree they're much better than the factory bolts. They MUST be replaced anyway.

Good luck, let us know how everything turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What you've shown in your pics is someone's attempt at "pinning" the cylinder sleeves (or liners) to try to keep them from moving. Those bolts go through the block and bottom of the cylinder liners. A previous owner probably heard a tick or knock and thought pinning would keep the liners in place. It probably wasn't since you still have a knock. I would need to make sure the job was done right by pulling the oil pan and checking their work. Hopefully they used loctite on the bolts, but they could still leak or come loose as there isn't much room for threads to grab and stay put there.
The knock could be any number of things like a flex plate, lifter, rod, etc. You should have an oil pressure gauge installed in case the pump fails, and a water temp. gauge in case of overheat (that's how the liners come loose) but unless you're gonna pull the engine and inspect everything, be prepared to live with it; most engines will go thousands of miles with a minor knock as long as you keep up on oil changes. Since you have the heads off, I would do as much as possible while your there; the timing cover is known to leak and houses the oil pump so you should check it and replace the timing chain and gears too.

As far as head gaskets go, you can use this kit: Land Rover Head Gasket Kit (Same Fit As Part # STC4082): Rover Engine Parts

That should cover your coolant leak if it's from the block. If it was the heater core, you would see it on the engine side, but they usually leak on the inside onto your floor.

Also consider ARP Head studs; most agree they're much better than the factory bolts. They MUST be replaced anyway.

Good luck, let us know how everything turns out.


Thanks ! I'll go ahead and make a list of parts to buy. Great info.

Pinning the liners is a new term for me.... dose not sound good. New block would kinda suck, I looked at " JE Robison Service - Bosch Car Service Specialists ? the blog: Should You Rebuild or Replace Your Land Rover V8? "

$5-6,000.... sounds great for fully rebuilt engine if i'm still headed into making the Rover into a Search and Rescue / Recreational Vehicle. Not sure I am with this rover or not.

The sound of the knock is coming from the right side(drivers) but .. oil leak is coming from the left side ( passengers ). I just took off the oil pan and on to the motor mount today; where the leak is coming from.

So pinning the liners, is there a chance one of them is moving up and down?


Found my exhaust leak, nuts were hand tight and gaskets are done.... Plus one of them was moving around once I took it off the block.
 

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wjsj69
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It's not likely that you have a moving liner now that they're pinned, assuming the "pinning" bolts did not come loose. Check them from the inside now that you have the pan off. Rotate the crankshaft to move the pistons up and make sure they weren't installed too long or too high so as to hit the piston skirts and cause piston slap and metal contamination.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's not likely that you have a moving liner now that they're pinned, assuming the "pinning" bolts did not come loose. Check them from the inside now that you have the pan off. Rotate the crankshaft to move the pistons up and make sure they weren't installed too long or too high so as to hit the piston skirts and cause piston slap and metal contamination.
Thank you. I am going to remove the motor today hopefully. Messed around with it a little yesterday. I plan on mounting to my stand tonight.

I'll keep the post updated
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I got the motor out and it has been inspected. Both of my certified people have gave it an okay on the crank and other components. Oil gear was in half when pulling it out and the guy who did the pinning of the cylinder sleeves, did a ****ty job of drilling. When he drilled the holes, the bit walked all over. Better bits and a punch ??? and the screws don't sit flat .. plus were over tightened.

So this is what i'm going to do before I replace the motor. Re-tap the holes slightly bigger and use sew hex screws with a cold weld that they are dipped in. JB weld meets the specs so far. There are a few small chunks that are not deep nor big; around the drilled holes. From the bit walking most likely.

I have methods to prevent metal shavings and glue from getting on the inside cylinder wall. Plus not sticking out any. I will document.

So going to order my sun gear for the oil pump from Atlantic British with the gasket kit. Unless there's a stronger one that has been produced ?

Didnt look like according from this post. Oil Pump Repair Kit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey guys ! finally done rebuilding my engine. Took my time and hooked every thing up. However it wont start ....

I checked all connections for a hour and could not find any thing. I can make it hit a few times when spraying starting fluid. So I know it is sparking and turning over.

Squeezed my hand back to the fuel rail and I can get fuel to come out of the rail, it has pressure and fuel. Don't think the injectors are firing ? Tested and clean them before putting them back in. They work and they are plugging in.

I read that a bad Crank Sensor could be a fault. Picking one up at advance today to try. I did soak the CPS in Purple power with other parts for a while. Think PP killed it? Thats the only thing I can think of.


Pics coming soon.
 
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