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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I was wonderring if anyone could offer up some leads on the following problem.

I have a 2000 landrover discovery series II with 110 000 KM. Always run premium gas (shell V power 91 octane) About 6 weeks ago the vehicle began displaying symptoms of a slight rough idle when stopped at a red light...These symptoms have progressively worsened over the last 6 weeks it got to the point where while in reverse it stalled and died and would not restart It cranks but will not turn over.

Durring the last 6 weeks I have replaced all the spark plugs, new electrical leads and a new fuel filter. The truck ran better for about a week - then returned back to -> on the verge stalling/rpm drop only when stopped at a red light. I then cleaned the MAF and Idle control Valve (the throttle body was fine)

The idle control was covered with a bit of gunk and I figured aha this is it...After the cleaning, all components were moving freely. So we put all the hoses back on and started up the truck and the service engine light went off. We checked for any codes and none came back. Disconnected the black ground wire on the battery let the truck sit for 10 minutes and reconnected the ground wire, then started up the truck and it ran awesome. The rpm drop offs at red lights stopped and the throttle response was immediate!
Today it went "all gone pete tong" so to speak. I started losing power while accelerating and the rpm drops at the red lights reappeared. I then put the truck in reverse and the rpm dropped and the engine died - could not re start it. The check engine light flashed rapidly before the engine stalled out.

So this leaves me wondering what else could it be? Fuel pump? Oxy sensors? wiring gremlins?

I'm sorry about all the spelling errors and typos, my wife and kids are harassing me like crows & without my truck I'm stuck and I cant run away from them
 

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'03 Disco SE
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A flashing CEL typically indicates a "cylinder damaging misfire" - but it typically sounds a lot worse than it is.

However, the ECU should have stored the trouble codes. Get these read for free at your local Advance or Autozone and tell us the code numbers. Without them we're blind.

Also, I'm not sure how you managed to replace the fuel filter, but it's integral to the fuel pump and lives in the tank and is typically not intended to be replaced.

It's difficult to predict what's actually happening, but I'm inclined to think it's either the TPS, the MAF, the CPS, or some kind of misfire caused by the fuel injectors/ignition coils. Worst case scenario would be a blown head gasket that is allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber, preventing ignition. Are you losing coolant or oil?
 

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What fault codes do you have? By the way, a D2 does not have a fuel filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Both of you thanks. The mechanic who helped with the truck said he replaced the fuel filter so I'll have to have a talk with him about that for clarification. I ended up having the vehicle towed to a licensed mechanic and he said that the the crank sensor had become partially unseated.
He indicated that the vehicle showed no codes prior to receiving the truck and after leaving his shop. He kept the truck for 3 days testing it every now and then. I was reluctant to take the truck back but I did....I was expecting it to die on the way home during rush hour but It drove smooth all the way home.
Today while braking the rpms dropped off again. At first, just barely enough to notice but within minutes I was experiencing a border line stall out. The service engine light flashed several times mabey 7-10? I pulled over stopped the engine let it rest and drove her back home without any rpm loss at the red lights...
I'm having the truck towed back again and I'm hoping that with the service engine lights on this time we will be able to pull some codes.
 

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Again, before any one works on it, get the fault code numbers so we can help where your mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Died on the driveway. Got the following info
6 codes stored
Only 3 codes could be recovered by the scan gauge II
P0000
P0301
P0306
& Then it said no codes found & system ready
 

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'03 Disco SE
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573 Posts
301 & 306 are misfire codes. They're on different cylinder banks so it's not likely to be a coil issue.

Maybe your fuel pump is on it's way out? It vaguely sounds like a problem I've had previously where my fuel pump had failed and was only putting out about 30-40% of its design pressure. Have your mechanic check the fuel pressure and get back to us.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No news yet, the vehicle got towed in before the long weekend...They will be proceeding with a changeout of the crank sensor, and I will update you as soon as I get the vehicle back. From where it stands now, The mechs said there getting the same readings that I had "no codes found & system ready" But they did say that the sensor is now dead.

With this being said....Im not entirely convinced its just the crank sensor though. Last year the top cover/oil pump failed...so based on what I found on the forum I'll have them double check the cam position sensor.

Also at the beginning of summer The speedo also mysteriously failed for 2 days, but the tach and everything else was fine. The speedometer started working 3 days later... and then 6 weeks later the rpm drop offs started showing up...It seems like every time we have that AHA moment its "fixed" the symptoms would come back even more pronounced and exaggerated then before.

I'll update you as soon as I get the vehicle back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

Here's a video of what happened after the crank sensor was reseated. In the video I'm shifting between Park, Drive and Neutral. Brakes on and I am not giving any gas....

So just to reiterate, it started with a small rpm drop off only at red lights. Changed spark plugs and leads worked great for a few days and then the RPM drop off returned with a little more force. Changed the Air filter, cleaned the MAF & ICV and she sounded like a rockstar. Trouble returns a few day's later leading to a complete stall out in reverse. Vehicle towed Crank Sensor reseated and she makes it home. Next morning the RPM drop offs are now Really Acting Up, accompanied with what looks like a surge or over correction? Turned the engine off & restart failed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
New crank sensor was installed nothing happened, the truck will not start. Coils were showing no voltage on both sides, so 1 side was replaced and still no luck. There's no spark.
 

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Computer Nerd
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For the sake of your wallet, do not throw any more parts at this engine till they can say for sure what they have found.
Did anyone ever reset the inerita switch and when was this last tuned along with new 8 mm silicone wires?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Mike,

I never asked for the 8 mm silicone wires when I just had them replaced.21 days ago. The inertia switch was reset, and it was still a no go. We finally succumbed and had my old girl towed to the local LR dealer. They will be charging a set fee for a diagnosis right of the get go... Hopefully it'll help me find the missing piece of the puzzle. I'll update as soon as I get any info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
okay, the 450$ diagnostic charges from the dealer has revealed that the ECM needs to be replaced. The rep indicated that a new unit can be shipped out from England at a cost of $1300 CAD + an additional $450 for the reinstallation etc... 1 year warranty on the parts.


I asked for clarification if the unit is brand new or a refurb/rebuild and they indicated that it is "new". I'm a bit suspicious how can you really know?
 

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Unless it is a loose connection, I doubt it is the issue here, however to clarify, cylinders 1 and 6 spark off the same coil.

Total of 4 coils, 2 in each pack, 2 cylinders per coil.

1 - 6
2 - 3
4 - 7
5 - 8
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
RG7
The tech's said that the ECM is all they can think of. It's been ordered and hopefully should land on the NA continent in ughh 15 days.
 

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'03 Disco SE
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Holy crap - why did you agree to a $1700 fix? Cancel it if you can. Guaranteed used ECUs can be had for $100 and it takes basic hand tools to replace it. The only reason you'd need the dealer would be to hook it up to their testbook to sync the odometer and potentially load it with new firmware.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
B.D
The Edmonton Landrover Dealer charges out $185 dollar's an hour as a base line fee. I'm paying top dollar for this repair to keep it out of their shop in the future. PS the new "ECM arrived from the factory today dead in the box" The waiting time could potentially be another 4 weeks. If thats the case then that mens this 1 part will have taken 7 weeks.
I'll update with more info when I have something positive to post.
 

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Mr. t
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Dude get your truck out of there! You'd come out cheaper with your old mechanic throwing parts at it. Go buy a used ECM and pay someone that has a screw driver to install it.

More than likely its not even the ECM. That's what stealerships replace when they are stumped. Then when it doesn't fix your problem, don't plan on getting a refund or having them give you a break on labor, that's not how they work.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
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