Lift time!!

3695 Views 24 Replies 7 Participants Last post by Dane!, Nov 13, 2013

Scrubo

Discussion Starter · Nov 9, 2013

Lets talk about lift kits! I want to lift my 2000 D2 between 2-3 inches but, I dont have any knowledge on lifts, shocks, spacers....etc. So I came here to hopefully understand a little more and when I purchase a lift, I purchase it correctly. For a 2 inch lift here are my questions:

What type of springs should I buy?

What type of shocks should I buy?

I've heard about getting spacers for the springs??

Do I need to extend brake lines or wheel speed sensors?

What should I not buy? And what should I look out for?

Thanks!

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Dane!

· #2 · Nov 10, 2013

Well, I plan on lifting my truck also, and Ive done some research.
Terrafirma is getting good reviews but no one is for sure ready to say they are good, they are cheaper. Old man emu is the most popular brand, a little bit more expensive but when you buy it you know your getting a good one. Old man emu's 2 or 3 inch lift is 788$ shipped @ lucky8llc.com and the TF 3'' lift is about 600$ shipped for the 2'' its about 550-525$ shipped you have to talk to them about shipping on the 2 inch because its not a kit. Your going to need extended SS brakelines also (120$) abs lines i heard you can reroute for a 3 in lift, so you dont need to buy them. It depends on your preference on the lift, you save about 200$ going with TF but OME is been "trail tested" they say. I may personally go with TF front coils because i have rear SLS, so if they suck, ill switch em out, only like 120$ for me

Dane!

· #3 · Nov 10, 2013

Also, no spacers! you should be fine with any 2 inch lift to fit larger tires. anything bigger than a 3 inch im sure you know is a lot of work ^.^
take lots of pictures!:beer:

Scrubo

Discussion Starter · #4 · Nov 10, 2013

Thank you for the info! Terrafirma it is! I'm probably going to go with 2 inch. 3 would be nice but its a little pricey for me.

acamato

· #5 · Nov 10, 2013

When you do a 3" you should install caster correction radius arms.

Scrubo

Discussion Starter · #6 · Nov 10, 2013

And what is that?

Disco Mike

· #7 · Nov 10, 2013

You guys are putting the cart in front of the horse.
First how much wheeling will you be doing, how hard of a trail are you looking at and how many miles on your Disco.
As far as which lift manufacture to buy from, sure T.F.'s are popular mainly because they are cheap. Old Man Emu has been around for 25 plus years and are well proven as is the Iron Man Suspension both of which were designed, buikt and test for years in Austraila.
If you plan on having a suspension that will servre you well, spend the extra money and buy the better quality of OME or Iron Man.
As for brake lines, if you are over 100,000 miles, you should be replace all 6 of the rubber brake hoses and going with a lift, the extended stainless steel braided are the best way to go.

Scrubo

Discussion Starter · #8 · Nov 10, 2013

I have 150,000 miles on her. I want to do more serious off roading but nothing extreme. As in, no serious rock climbing. I have heard very good things about OME but im not familiar with Iron Man. How much do they run? As well as, how much dose it cost to replace the brake line parts?

Dane!

· #9 · Nov 11, 2013

I mentioned SS brake lines in my last post, they run about 120$ at lucky8llc.com, the same place you can purchase your lift. As for OME lifts vs. TF lifts, I have read reviews on TF vs. OME, TF med. duty spring runs a little firmer on the road as to OME springs gives you a better ride, BUT I know that some people compare TF's med. duty springs to OME's HD coil, TFs med. duty's can handle more weight, so that could be the reason why they run a little firmer. But this is only from what I have heard on other forums, TF has been getting some constant good reviews, but OME has had them for years on end, in the end its just your preference, and its your truck, so do what you'd like with it! Also, for the castor corrected radius arms, they run about $500, most people don't run them, although Its advised, and they do fine. For a 2" lift you wont need them at all. Im not trying to sway you towards TF or OME, just giving you some options

Hope that helped.
Dane.

Scrubo

Discussion Starter · #10 · Nov 11, 2013

Yes it did help! With that saying, when I do a lift I will go with the 2 inch TF. I don't mind the rough ride, I don't care to much for comfort. That's not why I bought my Rover haha. OME has been in the Rover world a lot longer and a good reputation but why not give TM a chance?

Dane!

· #11 · Nov 11, 2013

I agree, Im going to try out TF also, I think it'll ride nice with a steel bumper up front, its only going to be a little stiff with no extra weight. I have heard people have issuses with OME with heavy loads, the springs sag, so they have to convert to D1 springs that are longer so it sags down to an even height. Plus, for the money I do save, Ill have the money for front and rear diff guards! win win.

Oh, also, forgot to mention. when you do lift, your front drive shaft will hit the front cross member, if im not mistaken. Its an easy fix, 1/2 spacer I think, Im not sure anyone sells or not. When you lift your truck in the future just PM me if you cant find one, Ill make 4 of them instead of just 2.

Dane.

Scrubo

Discussion Starter · #12 · Nov 11, 2013

You do? That's great to know! I will contact you when I get it. As well as ill recomend others to you.

Dane!

· #13 · Nov 11, 2013

My dad owns a shop, tons of scrap steel plate everywhere, plus im going to be needing a set, so why not just cut two sets up. I wouldnt charge you for the spacer, its just four holes to drill and a few cuts, just pay for shipping, its really no big deal! :beer:

Scrubo

Discussion Starter · #14 · Nov 11, 2013

Awesome!!! Well if you ever need a custom Saudi SPEC grill made, you can give me a call. I've started making them.

Disco Mike

· #15 · Nov 11, 2013

If you are only going to run a 2" lift you really won't need the castor correct radius arms. Have you already rebuilt or replaced your front drive shaft?

Scrubo

Discussion Starter · #16 · Nov 11, 2013

Yes, I've had the front drive shaft rebuilt.

MR.T

· #17 · Nov 11, 2013 (Edited)

I've been running TF +2 shocks with RTE's 2" springs for the past 3 years. If you get the +2" shocks, which I recommend ( increased articulation) you will definitely need extended brake lines and cross member spacers. I have pics to prove this if needed. I bought my spacers from RTE, but they can be easily made as Dane has already mentioned.
I can't compare against OME, as TF are the only lift I've ridden on, but when I first installed them I was disappointed at how rough they rode. But just in the last 6 months I decided to change My tire pressure. I had been running, as suggested by a lot of members on this forum, 40-46 PSI all the way around. I recently changed it to the suggested factory tire pressures and the difference in ride comfort is unbelievable. It even improved cornering and handling. I haven't noticed any increase in tire wear, but I haven't been measuring either. I definitely kicked myself for not doing that earlier.

When I mentioned TF +2", I'm talking about the travel of the shock itself, not lift height, that's dictated by the spring. Basically when they are fully decompressed they are 2 inches longer than a normal shock, hence more articulation and less of a chance of pulling a wheel off the ground.

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Dane!

· #18 · Nov 12, 2013

I thought RTE lifts give you more than the 2" lift it's advertised? That's probably why it's so rough, I wonder what the rides like with a TF complete kit springs and shocks. Pretty excited ! Just one more paycheck, and ill have my kit along w/ a custom bumper and enough to rebuild my master cylinder ^.^

MR.T

· #19 · Nov 12, 2013

RTE does set you a bit higher. It's for the added weight of bumpers/winches. Not sure about the TF though. More than anything your shock will be the main factor in ride comfort.

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MR.T

· #20 · Nov 12, 2013

Like I said, I'm much happier now that I adjusted my tire pressure to factory specs.

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