[texasrover]

I am just curious. I have a 2" lift.

How high can you go before modification need to be made? I was told anything past three inches you would have to start making mods.

I used spacers, to lift the coils. Now, it is time to renew those springs. I would like to replace them with firmer, and taller springs (such as OME). just worried about passing that three inch mark.

Thanks in advance for any feed back.

 

[rmuller]

You were told right.. from 3" up you'll start running into problems which you'll have to address, anything from driveshafts to extending brakelines, to rearlinks, to radius arm, etc.. Check out 4x4ag.com or RoverTym, they can put together a package for you.

 

[roverX]

Every rover is different. Some can go to 3" or higher and have no issues. Be carefull replacing the radius arms and other parts with aftermarket fabricated ones. Rover uses solid formed pieces whereas the aftermarket part a cut and welded, therefore, weaker. To correct the steering wandering issues associated with a lift, make sure you change your steering damper and add a trutrac front locker to make it drive straight. Definitely will need extended brake lines. The general train of thought is this...decide what size tires you want to run and why, plus what tye of terrain you want to tackle, then lift accordingly. Don't go higher than necessary b/c you will then be too top heavy.
One idea is to do this...go with a 3" suspension lift, then add a 2" body lift - you will have 5" total but keep your center of gravity the same as a 3" lift, sans any roof rack weight and so forth.
As far as suspension lifts go..EE, rovertym, $afarigard, they all make good lifts that you can istall yourself even if you are minimally mechanically inclined.
As far as body lifts go, I have heard the best about rovertym. But then, I am sure there are other good ones out there.
My two cents/sense. I would like to hear from others on these issues as I am always willing to learn and expand my knowledge base.

Whatever you do, you have to take pics...unspoken rule here.. :clap: :drink1:

 

[John C]

Every rover is different. Some can go to 3" or higher and have no issues. Be carefull replacing the radius arms and other parts with aftermarket fabricated ones. Rover uses solid formed pieces whereas the aftermarket part a cut and welded, therefore, weaker.

Not all aftermarket manufactures cut and weld, some of them use solid formed pieces.

To correct the steering wandering issues associated with a lift, make sure you change your steering damper and add a trutrac front locker to make it drive straight.

No need to add a Tru trac, you can get castor corrected radius arms or have the swivels drilled by RTE.

Definitely will need extended brake lines.

Correct.

The general train of thought is this...decide what size tires you want to run and why, plus what tye of terrain you want to tackle, then lift accordingly. Don't go higher than necessary b/c you will then be too top heavy.
One idea is to do this...go with a 3" suspension lift, then add a 2" body lift - you will have 5" total but keep your center of gravity the same as a 3" lift, sans any roof rack weight and so forth.
As far as suspension lifts go..EE, rovertym, $afarigard, they all make good lifts that you can istall yourself even if you are minimally mechanically inclined.

EE sells (not makes) OME and RTE makes their own springs (has someone manufacture them).

As far as body lifts go, I have heard the best about rovertym. But then, I am sure there are other good ones out there.

I don't think anyone else in the US makes a body lift for Rovers, and yes they are well made and easy to install. It just requires some welding to extend the steering shaft.

My two cents/sense. I would like to hear from others on these issues as I am always willing to learn and expand my knowledge base.

I agree with you, just wanted to clarify a few things...

 

[SCSL]

John, I think RTE makes body lift spacers for Rovers
(Although I personally would not install a body lift on a Rover. If you are looking to build-up, just cut. Why raise the center of gravity when your suspension will already be giving you 3"+ on a major build-up? The name of the game is always maximum clearance & suspension travel w/ lowest possible center of gravity.) :drink1:

 

[John C]

John, I think RTE makes body lift spacers for Rovers
(Although I personally would not install a body lift on a Rover. If you are looking to build-up, just cut. Why raise the center of gravity when your suspension will already be giving you 3"+ on a major build-up? The name of the game is always maximum clearance & suspension travel w/ lowest possible center of gravity.) :drink1:

That's what I meant, I don't think anyone ELSE makes them other than RTE. And they are well made and easy to install (I've done a few installs).

Yeah, I'm not a fan of body lifts either.

 

[9dawgs]

What about the 2" TODDCO spring spacers? No mods needs to the drive shafts or brake lines for these right?

 

[John C]

What about the 2" TODDCO spring spacers? No mods needs to the drive shafts or brake lines for these right?

Like RoverX mentioned, each vehicle is different. I don't think you need to modify the DS or brakelines for a 2" lift.

Do you have the rotoflex in the rear driveshaft or u-joints? If you have the Roto you might want to consider replacing it with a u-joint DS.

 

[9dawgs]

Like RoverX mentioned, each vehicle is different. I don't think you need to modify the DS or brakelines for a 2" lift.

Do you have the rotoflex in the rear driveshaft or u-joints? If you have the Roto you might want to consider replacing it with a u-joint DS.

Probably, it's completely stock. If that's what it came with then they are there. I haven't crawled under yet to see though. I believe it was a grocery getter in another life...

Is the u-joint replacement just an exchange or will I need to take the drive shaft to a machine shop to weld the correct couplings on?

 

[John C]

No, it's a piece of cake to do.

All you need is a driveshaft from an older Range Rover (87-93), the flange from the same RR and the spacer. Or you can purchase the flange kit from Atlantic British or your favorite parts supplier.

You can install new joints on the RR driveshaft yourself. You might want to replace the nuts on the driveshaft (transfer case side) while you're at it. It's easier to do the install using a propshaft tool (which is basically a thin wall socket).

The biggest problem is removing the peg from the old flange. I used a special tool called a Pully Puller Tool.

I'll put together some instructions on how to swap the Rotoflex for the u-joint style driveshaft this weekend.

 

[roverX]

John - thanks for the input. I, too, am interested in the swap out from the rotoflex. Please post the 411 when you have it put together. Is that your complany that is one of the sponsors of this forum? I am a firm believer in keeping things in-house if at all possible - keep it in the family.

Oh yeah...which aftermarket company doesn't cut and weld? That is some good 411 to have.

 

[John C]

John - thanks for the input. I, too, am interested in the swap out from the rotoflex. Please post the 411 when you have it put together. Is that your complany that is one of the sponsors of this forum? I am a firm believer in keeping things in-house if at all possible - keep it in the family.

Oh yeah...which aftermarket company doesn't cut and weld? That is some good 411 to have.

Yep, we're the exclusive importer for Scorpion Racing products in the US.

Scorpion Racing makes a solid radius arm.

 

[SCSL]

Scorpion working on anything for the DII watts links ?

 

[AdrianS]

SCSL

Scorpion has stuff on the "Drawing Board" but no eta. Tomcat is also working on it because they have started to use the DII axles on their race vehicles.

 

[Quicksilva]

QT engineering also make solid radius and trailing arms...

But trust me...RTE's cut and reworked arms are IMO far stronger than any punishment that could be inflicted on em...
Heres a rear arm on my rig...

And heres a Radius arm

As for installing a tru trac to make the truck ride straight...to me thats a cop out...the issue lies in the suspension...not the driveline...Get corrected arms or drilled swivels if you wanna do it right and eliminate undue wear on your tires...

My Tuppence
M,

 

[texasrover]

I tell you what I am going to do. I will stay with what I have and put heavier springs on the rig, I think taking the sag out will make the two inch lift look more like a true two inches.

I am running 235-85-16 as of now... I am real happy with these tires.

The bumper in the front will be getting a make over, I am sure that approach angle can be improved simply be getting rid of that plastic "grass catcher" that hold the fog lights.

Just ordered a brush bar with Hella's on it. I posted earier about mounting a winch to the front via hitch and reciever... I failed to order the brush bar with the winch mount so, a little welding and mods might fix that.

The roof rack will be next. If anyone has some specs on building their own roof rack, I would certainly appreciate the input. I want to do it out of Aluminum 3/4 or more tubing and have no problems welding it up. I can picture all the recovery equip, strapped to the sides now... ohhhh

Yeah, I know I could just buy one... where is the fun in that?

 

[WetDawg]

Got Pictures?

...of your 235-85-16 tires?

 

[texasrover]

These are R/T's. Not quite Mud but much more aggressive and deeper tread than A/T.

 

[texasrover]

Here is another view... I think you can see the spare a little better. I can take some better pics this evening. This is what I happen to have in the computer at this time.