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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i am interested in learning more about locking differentials. Have you guys done this, and if so, what are the options? I know ARB does the Airlock version, but i'm sure thats expensive. Is there a manual option?

Thanks,
Jm
 

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The ARB version is a locker actuated with compressed air. You need to purchase an air compressor to operate it. Personally, I think the ARB air compressor is a POS.
Maxi-Drive and McNamara lockers are actuated by your engines vacuum.
All the above lockers are actuated manually via a switch in your cabin.
Hope this helps.
 

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They are both excellent products. I have the maxi-drives fitted to both my vehicles. Front and rear on one, and just rears on the other. When I was in the market for lockers I looked closely at both, but chose to go with Maxi-Drive as it was more popular. In fact, the Mc Namara is based on the same principle, and I believe, that they used to work with each other.
The advantage of these lockers over the ARB's is that you get bigger axles, and to my knowledge no one to date has managed to break one yet. Some extreme rock climbing may cause them to swist, but no break.

Both brands are represented in the US. Here's a run down on what you get.

Maxi shafts fitted to the front and rear applications are 30% larger in polar section modules than the original axles, manufactured from HY TUF AMS6418 nickel chrome moly steel heat treated to 1550 MPA (100 Ton per sq.in) tensile strength are up to 50% stronger than the original. Special drive flanges have been fitted to accommodate the larger axles with a solid end cap welded on after spline forming to prevent oil leakage normally associated with knock on cap.
The reciprocal dog clutch is of hardened and tempered chrome moly steel. This is a one-piece component having a minor female spline to engage and slide on the axle. A large 50mm diameter female spline to engage the differential is of a loose coarse design necessary for quick full engagement and disengagement. When the vacuum actuator moves this dog to engage the extension spline of the carrier this axle is now unable to rotate within the differential and the opposite axle is similarly locked by connection through the gears. All components must now rotate as one thereby achieving positive drive to both/all wheels.

The male locking spline extends through a large roller bearing. Splines engage to a depth of 17mm for low compression stress.
The hemisphere/carrier of machine steel (not a casting) accommodates a six gear planetary gear set, larger than original. Two side gears and four star gears are precision gear generated from case hardening steel along with a pair of 19mm cross shafts to support the four planet gears (original diff has one 16mm shaft) - drive axle.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
what about the option of re-engaging the centerlocking diff. SCSL has been telling me about this. has anyone else retro fitted the 01 DiscoII with a Disco 1 Transfer case? Seems to be an easy "good enough" solution at a much, much lower price.
 

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I have heard of it being done. There are a couple of companies here in Australia that have the parts required, also I believe Ashcroft in the UK. I do think however, that if you buy the parts and have someone else fit them, you will be better and cheaper off simply buying a transfer case out of a wrecked D1.
 

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Nothing to fit. The '01 DIIs still have the centerlocking diff. It's just not engaged. All you need is a DI shifter or a jerry-rigged 'kit' to engage the center locker when in low range.
 

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So I take it, that there's a little more work changing tires since there is a knock on cap? or is it just as easy a changing a normal tires? Also how do they fair in water, after being submerged and after fording through a river or large pond?
 

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I dont understand either, sorry for such confusion, please correct me if you know what the heck this stuff is, but as it goes I know this is the wheel

and is this the drive flange errr..... or is it a knock on cap?I dont know :dunno:

and this is the wheel with the drive flange or knock on cap
to me it looks as though its bolted on, and being so wouldn't that make the wheel attached to the axel and make it hard to change tires? Can someone please clarify this for? I am so lost, sorry for the confusion.
 

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The wheel in the picture is not a LR rim. What their problem is, is that the holes in the drive flange doesn't match up with the hub and therefore they have bolted it to the rim. What a stuff up!
 

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Thanks for clearing it up. I was so lost and confused when trying to do research on maxi-drive axels. So sorry for the stuff up. So changing tires would be no problem then if the proper wheel is used? I want to change the stock alloys to steel wheels, Any suggestions to what kind of wheel to get?
 

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Disco said:
The wheel in the picture is not a LR rim. What their problem is, is that the holes in the drive flange doesn't match up with the hub and therefore they have bolted it to the rim. What a stuff up!
Uh, 'Scuse me, but what have you been smoking? That wheel, shown in post 11, is a TUM (Wolf) Rim, the first picture being the hub without drive flange, the third with drive flange. The points of the pentagon shaped flange are the same inscribed circle as the diameter as a standard drive flange, so what the heck are you talking about 'bolted to the rim' and difficulty of getting wheel off?
 

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:dunno: :dunno: I'm confused, someone please clear this up, this what I got so far, to use a axi-drive locker I need to upgrade the axles to that of maxi-drives, but in doin so i have to fit the correct wheels, cuz if I don't they won't fit or they will be bolted on a weird way? :dunno: :dunno: Please help, I guess this is really showing my ineptitude
 
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