Land Rover and Range Rover Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

First time here :wave:

I'm looking at a 2000 4.6 with 52,000 miles. I placed a deposite so she isn't going anywhere for a few days. She looks beutiful, new tires and the brakes were redone at 47,000.

I spend my summer driving a 03' corvette so I wasn't really sure if the handling on the 2000 range rover seemed accurate? I've never owned one. I understand I can't compare the drving characteristics of a corvette to a range rover but after driving the rover I'm really not sure? Maybe it's jut me...

When driving, it's as if I have to baby sit the wheel. It also kind of rocks and sways? As if it's too top heavy. It seems to take bumps somewhat hard as well. The air ride system seems to be working fine. Is it posible the airbags become unstable like after awhile even though they hold pressure just fine? It wasn't windy, but it's possible the tire pressure was a little low. Although, they are new tires?

Maybe it's all me but your input would be very helpful in my decision. Am I buying a problematic Rover guys or does this all sound nomal? They want 24,000 for her.

Thanks
Nick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
It sounds like it may need new shocks. Another possibility is bushings in various places, or possibly tie rod ends, but I would have to doubt they are bad on a 2000 already. People seem to love the Bilstein shocks, but I have not yet replaced mine, so I can't comment on them. They run $320.00 for a set of 4. Another possiblity is the steering dampener, which should be about the same price as a single shock. Bilstein also makes those for Rovers.

-Coach
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
...Pay the money (around $80) for a Land Rover dealer to do a used vehicle inspection and make specific mention of any concerns. This is an expensive vehicle to repair and maintain and the money will be well spent...

Best of Luck,

Nicky SWB 95 County Classic
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey Coach

Did you mean, you doubt the tie rod ends need to be replaced on a 2000 or all of what you mention, shocks, bushings and etc?

Raz
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Get the inspection at a LR dealer...

But before you do, go test drive a few more 2000 RRs with similar mileage, if they all drive the same you'll prob realize these things drive much different than most cars. What you describe is a very common response by first time RR drivers and more than likely your over compensating with your steering inputs, expecting it to react more like a car. After about 100 miles you will get used to it, and may even like it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Curt said:
But before you do, go test drive a few more 2000 RRs with similar mileage
I have driven a few others and didn't notice it so much. I'd guess since I'm so interested in this one specifically I'm questioning it more. Is is possible the shocks need to be replaced? I wonder what the average life of the shocks are?

Raz
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Curt said:
What you describe is a very common response by first time RR drivers and more than likely your over compensating with your steering inputs, expecting it to react more like a car. After about 100 miles you will get used to it, and may even like it!
This could be very well true.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
Take some more for a ride and compare.

I experience the same riding characteristics from my 88 RRC when I change between my other car, 400e mercedes (somewhat modified). You are spot on with not comparing the two. The vette's responsiveness and feedback is simply a paradigm to judge a lot of other vehicles against.

As for all SUVs , you will notice the drift, you will notice it being top heavy. I will tell you this DO NOT fill it with a ton of luggage, skis and coolers of refreshments and hit the mountain roads going 60. I count at least 20 SUVs a year (lots are 4.6s and X5s) spun out and flipped on mountain roads.

Take a couple more 4.6's for a ride and see if they exhibit similiar problems so you have some type of comparitive baseline.

Any car that needs that much work at 50,000 miles is something to be weary of. I did not start replacing stuff like that on my Rover until I started wheeling with it at over 200k mi. It is at 300k mi now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Hey Razmo good luck if you decide to buy. Let me know how it goes. I too am in the market for a P38 and hope to get one soon. I currently drive an 01 VW GTI and can tell you one thing its like comparing apples to oranges. Not only should you drive other Rovers but try to drive other makes as well. These SUVs are not sports cars for that matter they are not cars. But since my first Rover a couple of years ago I can't wait for my lease to end on my GTI so I can get my first P38. I guess I have Roveritis! And once you get yours you will too!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
If there is a big difference and you still really want this one...

go get the inspection at a LR Dealer, don't take a chance on one, they are way too expensive to repair...unless you just have $$ to burn, in that case send me some please :beer:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
as far as shock life...

It will vary greatly depending on how and on what terrain the vehicle has spent most of its miles traveling...the good thing is shocks are pretty easy and inexpensive to replace (compared to other RR parts) :drive:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
489 Posts
Steering stabilizer can cause the wheel to shake and shimmy over bumps. I find the steering on my 4.0 to be fairly accurate, not all that wandering, but they do drive different. My other "car" is a Mercedes E320, which of course handles better. The HSE should have 255x55x18 tires, right? A low profile tire such as this can tend to follow imperfections in the road more than a higher profile tire, especially on a big truck. As for shocks, etc-Bilsteins will last life of the truck (they have great warranty) and they will make it handle / ride better on / off road. My truck is converted from the air suspension to coils with Bilsteins to avoid the cost incurred with air sus. Here is a piece of advice: the previous owner of my 4.0 spent thousands on air spring replacements before converting to coils. Air suspension is great, but is troublesome and expensive. If you want the 4.6 for the "cool" factor of the air susp, than buy it only if you are willing to spend for new air springs frequently. If you convert to coils, the ride will improve, handling will improve (tendency to plow is reduced) and off-road ability is hardly compromised. Plus, it always sit right up. The RR is a very different experience than a Vette, but in a nice way. It is not a fast truck, but it can go anywhere (Far better off-road than any Jeep, Toyota, H2 Hummer, etc) The interior is extremely nice, and has good quality materials. Very nice stereo system. Beware of the intrusive alarm system, though-you can actually get locked into the vehicle and not be able to get out! (Disables door handles and locks, plus has interior alarm sensor)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Troverman

I appreciate the reply. I'm currently still looking. Decided to take a pass on the 2000 4.6. I figure time is on my side. I may just pick up a cheap cherokee for winter driving until I can find the right Rover.

Raz
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Hey Raz take your time it took me over a year before I found the right one. I also had to time it to the ending of my lease. Try to get it from a dealer with some kind of warranty or an individual who still has warranty time left to transfer to you. Or just spend as little as possible and hope for the best and or save the money in a fund for any expected repairs. Definetely get a 99 or newer if you can. Good luck.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top