What year is your Disco?
Lost!!
OK so my Disco II is in the shop right now. It over heated and ran some tests and came back with exhasut in the coolant. replaced the head gaskets and had the heads test for any leaks. The shop that did the test for leaks said it is good to go. Well the Disco shop put the vic back together and now it has coolant in cylinder 4 with a misfire code. Just wonder where the coolant can come from if the head shop said it was good. the disco shop used a camera to look in and see the coolant. he said he did not see where it is coming from. So at this point i might have to get a new head.
someone please help if you can with any info
someone please help if you can with any info
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
It is a 2004 HSE 4.6 Bosch engine. Just over 124,000 miles.
the coolant in cylinder 4 was there before the HG job started. that is why the heads were tested.
Did they pressure test the block before proceeding to put everything back together?
Unfortunately I don't think the problem is with your heads - oftentimes the cause of coolant in the cylinders is a crack in the block behind the liner. An overheat scenario can cause a crack, but oftentimes it's the crack itself that causes the overheat. It'll pass a visual inspection but you'll clearly be able to see it during a pressure test.
If this is the case, none of your options are cheap. You can try to repair the block by welding and then installing flanged liners, but there's no guarantee that this will work. The "safe" bet is to go with a replacement used or rebuilt engine.
Unfortunately I don't think the problem is with your heads - oftentimes the cause of coolant in the cylinders is a crack in the block behind the liner. An overheat scenario can cause a crack, but oftentimes it's the crack itself that causes the overheat. It'll pass a visual inspection but you'll clearly be able to see it during a pressure test.
If this is the case, none of your options are cheap. You can try to repair the block by welding and then installing flanged liners, but there's no guarantee that this will work. The "safe" bet is to go with a replacement used or rebuilt engine.
ok do not recall them saying they ran one. i just called and asked if they did and it sounds like they did not. It also sounds like they don't know what i mean but that can be from the language barrier from being in Germany. how do you run a pressure test on the engine block? the shop said he is going to run the engine and then pressure test it. i think he is doing a compression test to me.
next thing, if the test comes back No Good what would be the best route for this. I am invested in the truck but i feel that it is going to be to much for me.
This vid shows it pretty well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4odA3l2BAg
He says you can't re-sleeve, but you can; it's just pretty involved and costly..
He says you can't re-sleeve, but you can; it's just pretty involved and costly..
thanks for you video wjsj69. that explains some to me. hope its not that but if it is then at least i know what the problem is now after $1500 of tro9uble shooting. we'll see.
It's different from a compression test, but some places use the terms "compression" and "pressure" test interchangeably.
A compression test *may* help you track down the problem, but only if the HG/head/block are bad enough that they just won't hold compression. This usually isn't the case.
A block pressure test involves plugging off all of the coolant passages in the block and then using an air compressor to bump the pressure up to 100+ psi. Then you spray down the block with soapy water - this locates any pinhole leaks QUICK. Only problem is the block needs to be stripped down almost completely to ensure you can check every component. There's not foolproof way to do it with the engine assembled. A coolant pressure test can do the same thing, but all it will tell you is "you're leaking coolant into cylinder 4" - it won't tell you why or where.
If the block IS cracked, you'll have to pull the liner, weld the crack, bore out the weld to spec, and then reinstall a new liner. It basically requires a complete rebuild which can cost many thousands of dollars (or euro).
You can always just opt to drop in a used engine, which can be had from the UK for pretty cheap. However I'm not sure about import fees & shop labor costs so that also might be pretty pricey in the end.
A compression test *may* help you track down the problem, but only if the HG/head/block are bad enough that they just won't hold compression. This usually isn't the case.
A block pressure test involves plugging off all of the coolant passages in the block and then using an air compressor to bump the pressure up to 100+ psi. Then you spray down the block with soapy water - this locates any pinhole leaks QUICK. Only problem is the block needs to be stripped down almost completely to ensure you can check every component. There's not foolproof way to do it with the engine assembled. A coolant pressure test can do the same thing, but all it will tell you is "you're leaking coolant into cylinder 4" - it won't tell you why or where.
If the block IS cracked, you'll have to pull the liner, weld the crack, bore out the weld to spec, and then reinstall a new liner. It basically requires a complete rebuild which can cost many thousands of dollars (or euro).
You can always just opt to drop in a used engine, which can be had from the UK for pretty cheap. However I'm not sure about import fees & shop labor costs so that also might be pretty pricey in the end.
Sorry to hear that; that's why u need to have someone who knows these vehicles work on them, or be more informed yourself by reading up on these forums about what others have been through.. It takes a devoted enthusiast (read: slightly off center) to own one of these trucks; I actually read about them before hand and STILL bought one! :dunno:thanks for you video wjsj69. that explains some to me. hope its not that but if it is then at least i know what the problem is now after $1500 of tro9uble shooting. we'll see.
As far as a used engine goes, u better trust your source 100% that your getting a good one; I would hate myself if I went through the cost and trouble and find out it has the same problem or something else altogether :bawling:
I'd have to freshen it up myself before installing it: my 2 cents. good luck, let us know how it goes.
Thank you very much for the info. for this job would it be worth it to rebuild and weld the crack, if that is the problem? i know the job is intense but i do have know for this stuff, just not all the right tools at the house. Bosnian Disco and Wjsj69 what would you do?
Hard to say what makes the most financial sense because I don't know what part & labor prices are like in Germany.
If it happened to me, I'd probably buy a guaranteed used engine, test it for leaks, replace the head gaskets as a precaution, and install it in place of my original.
If it happened to me, I'd probably buy a guaranteed used engine, test it for leaks, replace the head gaskets as a precaution, and install it in place of my original.
I have this exact same issue with my 2003 with 130K miles. I've done dozens of hours of research, and the most reliable solution is to rebuild the engine with top-hat liners. If you do the work yourself (besides the machine work of course), it's about $4k-$5k. If you have a good LR shop do it, it's about $8K-$10K.Thank you very much for the info. for this job would it be worth it to rebuild and weld the crack, if that is the problem? i know the job is intense but i do have know for this stuff, just not all the right tools at the house. Bosnian Disco and Wjsj69 what would you do?
You can go with a used engine, but recognize that the same problem will probably occur on the used engine at some point in the future. And used engines are around $3K (plus you have to do the labor).
Just some thoughts...
I want to add a few comments to this. Hopefully there is some other issue with your HG job and it is not the block. A pressure test of the block (warm if possible) is the best test. A cylinder leak down test may shed some light also as the engine is back together.
1. There are no water passages from the block into the head beside the #4 cylinder. This is important because it limits the possibility of a HG being the issue. This is the same for all the middle cylinders. #3, #4, #5 and #6.
2. I personally would not try to repair a block that will not pass pressure test. I do not believe top hat liners will repair a block that will not hold pressure. If the block is cracked and you install a top hat it will prevent coolant from entering the combustion chamber but that same coolant would still be able to migrate down the sleeve and into the crank case. Basically, a cracked block is a cracked block. That's not to say a block might could be welded first. But I would want it to pass pressure test before installing new sleeves.
3. Top hats are an excellent solution for a slipped sleeve that is tapping. They will eliminate the need for a forced fit into the bore. But again the bare block will need to hold pressure.
1. There are no water passages from the block into the head beside the #4 cylinder. This is important because it limits the possibility of a HG being the issue. This is the same for all the middle cylinders. #3, #4, #5 and #6.
2. I personally would not try to repair a block that will not pass pressure test. I do not believe top hat liners will repair a block that will not hold pressure. If the block is cracked and you install a top hat it will prevent coolant from entering the combustion chamber but that same coolant would still be able to migrate down the sleeve and into the crank case. Basically, a cracked block is a cracked block. That's not to say a block might could be welded first. But I would want it to pass pressure test before installing new sleeves.
3. Top hats are an excellent solution for a slipped sleeve that is tapping. They will eliminate the need for a forced fit into the bore. But again the bare block will need to hold pressure.
I'd put the 4.6 crank pistons and rods in a good 4.0 block and move on with life.
So i talked to the shop today and he said he is going to look over it through the weekend. He guy still has no idea what it could be. to recap;
disco overheated.
check engine light on
misfire in #4
looked in cylinder with camera saw coolant on top of piston head
did head gasket job
took head to get tested, cleanded and surfaced
test came back good to go
put back together
started it up cooling system is overpressurizing with hoses getting hard as rock
looked in cylinder saw no coolant
let depress over night
morning saw coolant on top of piston head
shop says "don't know what is wrong"
that is the recap of the disco right now. i don't think the shop has ran a pressure test on the block and now it is back together. I am hoping it is a head problem but I am scared it might be the block.
I am loving all the good help i am getting on this forum. any other advice or insight would be great as well. Thank you very much.
disco overheated.
check engine light on
misfire in #4
looked in cylinder with camera saw coolant on top of piston head
did head gasket job
took head to get tested, cleanded and surfaced
test came back good to go
put back together
started it up cooling system is overpressurizing with hoses getting hard as rock
looked in cylinder saw no coolant
let depress over night
morning saw coolant on top of piston head
shop says "don't know what is wrong"
that is the recap of the disco right now. i don't think the shop has ran a pressure test on the block and now it is back together. I am hoping it is a head problem but I am scared it might be the block.
I am loving all the good help i am getting on this forum. any other advice or insight would be great as well. Thank you very much.
Also just to be doubly sure - you're 100% positive that they machined the heads flat & used brand new head bolts (and torqued them properly?)
..gotta be a cracked block.
Being in Germany, personally, I'd part it out and get a Defender b/c we can't have 'em in USA (not since '98 anyway). But if you're sticking with your disco, why not put a used or rebuilt diesel in it? Aren't they plentiful over there? Better reliability, economy and torque? I would if I could!
Being in Germany, personally, I'd part it out and get a Defender b/c we can't have 'em in USA (not since '98 anyway). But if you're sticking with your disco, why not put a used or rebuilt diesel in it? Aren't they plentiful over there? Better reliability, economy and torque? I would if I could!
Bosnian Discovery, positive they machined the heads i picked them up my self and talked to the company that did the machining and test on the heads. torqued to right spec that is the shop and i am not 100% on that one, but the head bolts i bought and know he put those on.
I have talked to the shop and they said they are still looking for and working on the issue. they said they would look at the issue for free for now so i will let them work. but I am just ready for it to be at home and for me to start doing my diagnostics on the poor girl.
I have talked to the shop and they said they are still looking for and working on the issue. they said they would look at the issue for free for now so i will let them work. but I am just ready for it to be at home and for me to start doing my diagnostics on the poor girl.
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
A forum community dedicated to all Land Rover owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about modifications, troubleshooting, engine swaps, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
