[AlaskaRover]

At 80,000 miles we had the water pump replaced on our 2000 Discovery Series II. After picking it up we found that we can only drive about 17 miles (time for the engine to really warm up) and when the engine RPMs drop below 1,000 the low oil pressure light illuminates. The dealer's answer is to replace the engine, which was the same suggestion that they had for the failed water pump. Engine has never over heated or exhited any signs of engine wear, other than this oil presure problem which occured after they replaced the water pump. Dealer did change our oil from synthetic to petroleum based, but I had the engine flushed and changed the oil back to synthetic after the first week, hoping that the issue was one of a clogged sump. Now it's sitting in the drive while I figure out what to do next. Any helpful suggestions on causes and cures? My immediate reaction is to take it to another shop and have the oil pump and pressure transducer replaced.

 

[LRR219]

Just A Sugguestion, Check To See If The Oil Pick Up Tube Isnt Clogged, Changing The Oil Will Not Fix This If It Is Clogged!!! Good Luck.

 

[Serg]

At 80,000 miles we had the water pump replaced on our 2000 Discovery Series II. After picking it up we found that we can only drive about 17 miles (time for the engine to really warm up) and when the engine RPMs drop below 1,000 the low oil pressure light illuminates. The dealer's answer is to replace the engine, which was the same suggestion that they had for the failed water pump. Engine has never over heated or exhited any signs of engine wear, other than this oil presure problem which occured after they replaced the water pump. Dealer did change our oil from synthetic to petroleum based, but I had the engine flushed and changed the oil back to synthetic after the first week, hoping that the issue was one of a clogged sump. Now it's sitting in the drive while I figure out what to do next. Any helpful suggestions on causes and cures? My immediate reaction is to take it to another shop and have the oil pump and pressure transducer replaced.

Replace the engine????? GO TO ANOTHER SHOP!! They are trying to screw you big time...

Serg

 

[Disco]

Have actually pull the sump to see if the pickup is not clogged?
BTW, I agree with Serg, your dealer should buy a horse...Billy the Kid had one!

 

[skyhawk]

We may have the same rover problem, I got a 97 disco sitting in the driveway too. Replaced water pump about two months ago, had to replace fuel pump last month, so I guess its a oil pump this month or oil pump repair kit. Engine experiences valve chatter along with loss of power. Shut engine off and wait ten minutes or so and it's fine. Changed synthetic oil out went back to regular type. May be restricted pick up tube or strainer in oil sump. I'm ordering a repair kit for oil pump from british atlantic tomorrow. Change out Saturday, If this works I post a thread Sunday.

 

[TsiArt]

HI, I'm new to this Land Rovers but I might have an insite to your problem .


Like the other people said that the pick up might be cloged . That might be cause my switching back and forth between oil types . What I've read somewere that those oils don't like to mix and all the crud that is stuck to the inside on the engine case comes luse when the different base of oil in thrown into the engine .

Like if you have regular oil in the engine for some time . The sides of the block acumulate this hard charcoil like crud . Now when you put in the syntetic oil in there that crud comes luse and drops to the oil pan.


Now I've rebuild my Talon motor and Heep ( Jeep ) 2.8l motor and I've seen that crud on the inside of the block .

But I'm not positive if the syntetic oil has the abilyty to leave crud .

But that's one thing I would look at . Also I don't know yet where the oil pump is in this motor . But I would change it whille I'm in there .

There is a nother posibylyty that you might have excesive worn crank baring . But this is V8 not a 4banger, So it should last longer then 80k.


My talon has the same problem , But that is becasue I have 150k on it and the turbo fell apart one day . Me being lazy , I did not droped the oil pan and all the turbo baring peaces when into the oil pump . That's why I had the oil light go on when the engine is hot and RPMs drop to like 600-700 rpms .

 

[AlaskaRover]

Fixed! Thanks!

On your advice I called on another shop (not Land Rover) and explained that I wanted the oil pan pulled, sump cleaned, pickup tube cleared and oil pressure tranducer pulled cleaned and checked. Three hours later the shop called to report that they had started with the pressure tranducer, after manually checking the oil pressure and finding it satisfactory, they changed the transducer for $12 US, ... problem fixed. A bit short of the Land Rover Dealership's solution of replacing the engine for $13,000 US.

Thanks again for all the advice. Great Forum.

 

[aussie disco97]

The oil pressure switch is definately the place to start, take the switch out and put an oil pressure gauge in the tapping point, then check the pressure. If you have an instrument workshop in your area(shop that sells pressure gauges air,water etc)they will have a dead weight tester and would be able to check the exact operating point of your switch. If it is ok then you have a problem, one thing I have found is if the oil pressure is low enough to bring up the oil pressure light it is one of two things either the problem is oil pick up or low level,oil pressure relief v/v, oil p/p or your motor is really close to a serious hernia. :drink1:

 

[aussie disco97]

Must appolgise slow internet connection I had posted reply before all yhe responses hed downloaded. But happy ending anyway thats great. :clap:

 

[Bogatyr]

AlaskaRover,
Good deal...you should go to the stealership and point this out to someone...ha.

TsiArt,
You are incorrect on synth and organic oils being incompatible...The two are blended all the time. Synthetics do often have a better additive package and will clean the inside of your engine better than a cheapo organic oil, but if you change it frequently enough, this won't really be a problem. And, as far as breaking off chunks of carbon large enough to clog the pickup... that engine must be pretty smoked for that to happen.

Bogatyr

 

[TsiArt]

AlaskaRover,
Good deal...you should go to the stealership and point this out to someone...ha.

TsiArt,
You are incorrect on synth and organic oils being incompatible...The two are blended all the time. Synthetics do often have a better additive package and will clean the inside of your engine better than a cheapo organic oil, but if you change it frequently enough, this won't really be a problem. And, as far as breaking off chunks of carbon large enough to clog the pickup... that engine must be pretty smoked for that to happen.

Bogatyr

Yes I'm most likely am wrong cause I could not find this info anywhere except some of the techs at some dealerships saying that . I heard that In a VW dealer and Chrysler Dealer . Also Someone on my vacation In Poland told me this too . So it might be a myth made up from the praportys of the synthetic oil that cleans the engine better , like you said .

But the mottors that I tuke apart where over 100k anyway . So I've seen the inside of them where BAD .
Funny thing is that My dad used regualr Castrol oil in Poland in his Fiat 125P , and that oil was the best , but here in USA must be different . Maybe it's the US laws on chemicals that are used in Oil for emition purpases .




But the most important thing is that the low Oil presure problem is fixed :buttrock: