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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2005 LR3 with 170,000 miles recently started having a throttle position sensor issue that caused the land rover to go into limp mode with an engine fault warning. I found a loose connector that goes to the mass air flow sensor and plugged it back in. I then tried to clear the codes on the LR3 using my OBD II scanner that I’ve used multiple times before. Now after trying to restart the LR3 I’m getting no signs of life at all. There’s a “click” when I turn the key over but the starter doesn’t even attempt to turn over the engine. The battery was charged and tested to verify good cranking amps and voltage. When I attempt to read the codes my code reader now says “ECM Not Equipped” and it reads no codes as a result.

Is the LR3 dead in the water? I’ve tried to research if there are any fuses or relays that control the ECM specifically that might be burnt out, but I haven’t been able to find much info on this. I’ve read that a ECM/ECU replacement is costly and in my situation would most likely mean scrapping the vehicle for parts. I tried removing the battery and leaving the vehicle overnight to see if it would somehow clear and reset. But no luck. It continues to show no signs of life. Any recommendations??
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you tried jumping it with another vehicle?
I did try jumping it recently with a jump box prior to a lot of these issues starting. I had it parked with a trickle charger on it for the past couple months but the trickle charger had stopped functioning so the battery was a bit weak. So I did jump it initially. But most recently I replaced the battery all together with a new battery to verify that the battery wasn't the issue
 

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Do not have a lot faith in jump boxes; in my experience jumping from another vehicle is a lot better. But if you have a for sure new battery, that should do.

If it stopped starting when you plugged the wire into the MAF, try removing it and hitting the starter. See no reason why this should work but sometimes backtracking helps. Could you have knocked something else loose? Might get a good trouble light and give a look.

Again if all you get is a click, it sounds like a bad battery or starter solenoid. You could try taking a 2x4 and gently rapping on the starter to unstick it. Make sure your battery cables are tight.
 

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I would agree, try unplugging that sensor it might’ve been a known issue and thusly disconnected. Could be shorting out your ECM or something stupid.

also, if your scan tool doesn’t have a “vehicle reset” function, try removing the battery and shorting the pos and neg leads (vehicle side) for 15min. This will truly discharge all capacitors
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would agree, try unplugging that sensor it might’ve been a known issue and thusly disconnected. Could be shorting out your ECM or something stupid.

also, if your scan tool doesn’t have a “vehicle reset” function, try removing the battery and shorting the pos and neg leads (vehicle side) for 15min. This will truly discharge all capacitors

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try to going back over all the engine bay plugs and unplugging/replugging them all in. I don't think my scan tool has a "vehicle reset" button specific, but I'll try the process of connecting the positive and negative battery cables together later this week when and letting them discharge for at least 15 minutes. I'm hoping my ECU/ECM isn't fried, but that's my fear. It's been a trusty vehicle for a good while and then engine was running strong before this last issue, so I hate to think it's dead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Do not have a lot faith in jump boxes; in my experience jumping from another vehicle is a lot better. But if you have a for sure new battery, that should do.

If it stopped starting when you plugged the wire into the MAF, try removing it and hitting the starter. See no reason why this should work but sometimes backtracking helps. Could you have knocked something else loose? Might get a good trouble light and give a look.

Again if all you get is a click, it sounds like a bad battery or starter solenoid. You could try taking a 2x4 and gently rapping on the starter to unstick it. Make sure your battery cables are tight.
I'll have some time later this week to give it another look over. The current battery I have is new and strong. I don't believe it's the main issue currently. All electronics in the vehicle work including the heat/ac fan, radio, and instrument cluster, etc when the key is turned over. I'll try to look over all the plugs in the engine bay to see if I can spot anything else that might be loose. And if all else fails, I'm going to give that starter a few good knocks to see if it might be part of the issue.
The fact that my code reader no longer recognizes an ECU/ECM onboard scares me that it might have fried the ECM, but I'm hoping that's not it.
 

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I found a loose connector that goes to the mass air flow sensor and plugged it back in
I think the supposition is not that you have a loose connector somewhere, but that this connector you mentioned was unplugged intentionally (because of a fault), and that you plugging it in may have induced this state. It doesn’t sound like a battery issue. If the vehicle reset doesn’t work, you may consider investing in a higher caliber instrument.

Also, an electrical diagram will help you confirm the wiring to the ECM is intact
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think the supposition is not that you have a loose connector somewhere, but that this connector you mentioned was unplugged intentionally (because of a fault), and that you plugging it in may have induced this state. It doesn’t sound like a battery issue. If the vehicle reset doesn’t work, you may consider investing in a higher caliber instrument.

Also, an electrical diagram will help you confirm the wiring to the ECM is intact
I should have mentioned earlier that the thermostat housing had recently started to leak as the plastic part had started to degrade from the excessive heat exposure through the years. To replace the thermostat housing you have to take off the MAF and I'm sure that's why the connector was loose. Right after the thermostat housing was replaced the LR3 would start but was in limp mode with an engine fault b/c the MAF sensor wasn't receiving data as the connector was loose. And then when I plugged back in the MAF sensor securely and reset the codes, the LR3 is now seemingly dead and the code reader no longer recognizes the ECM at all.
I've been told that the IIDTool by GAP Diagnostics is a solid diagnostic tool for land rovers specifically. Any other suggestions?
 

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I've heard lots of good reviews of the GAP tool... I personally use the nanocom EVO, and I would extol its virtues, but I'm afraid it's nothing more than a "chevy vs ford" argument.

did you have a successful start after reconnecting the MAF, but before "ECM not fitted" error?
 
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I've heard lots of good reviews of the GAP tool... I personally use the nanocom EVO, and I would extol its virtues, but I'm afraid it's nothing more than a "chevy vs ford" argument.

did you have a successful start after reconnecting the MAF, but before "ECM not fitted" error?
 

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hello! have been browsing through this excellent forum while debating on whether to buy an '06 LR3 with two known issues. this post, by reverend ALC, caught my eye especially. it's quite clear the 3's require a dedicated scanner.... and there was one question about the Nanocom Evolution I have not been able to find an answer for (so far): is it only able to be linked to one specific LR3? (Two buddies already have 3's, and it would be a good scenario to share the scanner between us.)
very glad for anyone's reply!
 

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it’s the GAP tool which is vin-locked.
The EVO, you buy a license to work on a specific type of vehicle (L322, L319, etc), not a specific vehicle
 

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it’s the GAP tool which is vin-locked.
The EVO, you buy a license to work on a specific type of vehicle (L322, L319, etc), not a specific vehicle
thanks for your reply! Am I to understand that with the EVO the license is a one-time purchase, or is it an annual subscription?
 

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You pay once for the hardware and software as a bundle, both the device and access to genesis and the forums are perpetually licensed.

unless you’re like me and buy a bunch of additional vehicles /-:
 

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You pay once for the hardware and software as a bundle, both the device and access to genesis and the forums are perpetually licensed.

unless you’re like me and buy a bunch of additional vehicles /-:
Guilty as charged!! I have had several D2's over the years (and have kept one for camping with, equipped as it is with a rooftop tent.). And I have my "old friend too", a '98 D1, that is my daily driver in the warm months. I seem to have several "customers" as well, all of them with D2's, that I do some of the servicing on. The LR3 I'm considering would be the newest LR on the lot. It would make good sense then to splurge on a scanner that can address more than one specific, singular vehicle. I see Nanocom offers "unlock codes" as well... would that allow what begins as a LR3 tool to be able to address other models? (Adding the capacity for LR4 would be helpful, since I know one fellow who currently goes to the dealership for his maintenance needs.)
 

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Guilty as charged!! I have had several D2's over the years (and have kept one for camping with, equipped as it is with a rooftop tent.). And I have my "old friend too", a '98 D1, that is my daily driver in the warm months. I seem to have several "customers" as well, all of them with D2's, that I do some of the servicing on. The LR3 I'm considering would be the newest LR on the lot. It would make good sense then to splurge on a scanner that can address more than one specific, singular vehicle. I see Nanocom offers "unlock codes" as well... would that allow what begins as a LR3 tool to be able to address other models? (Adding the capacity for LR4 would be helpful, since I know one fellow who currently goes to the dealership for his maintenance needs.)
And do I understand rightly? It sounds like Nanocom has their own forum which can be accessed after you purchase their unit?
 

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Correct. Nanocom has their own forum. There’s not a whole lot going on there, but alexBBS has always answered my questions there.

one thing I’ll mention that did piss me off... the d2 requires two (purchased) codes... one for the engine and a separate for the body electronics. they’re priced a little lower than other unlock codes, but...

that’s my one quibble so far
 

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Correct. Nanocom has their own forum. There’s not a whole lot going on there, but alexBBS has always answered my questions there.

one thing I’ll mention that did piss me off... the d2 requires two (purchased) codes... one for the engine and a separate for the body electronics. they’re priced a little lower than other unlock codes, but...

that’s my one quibble so far
Even having one knowledgeable fellow able to field the occasional question can be worth its weight in gold. (Almost worth the price of admission, so to speak,). So far, I've been managing with not having a high-end scanner for the D2's, relying on a Hawkeye (and its BA 5070 --- I think that's the right number--- for airbag and immobilizer issues. I do have the Nanocom "Faultmate" for the tented D2, but I understand it IS locked to just that vehicle. I might be wrong about that! (I would be glad to be set straight about that!!)
 

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Yeah, I have a foxwell that is my go-to for most jobs. It’s quick and easy, but it can’t rewrite firmware or program keys or any of that cool stuff.

if my LRs get the sniffles I use the foxwell but if they come down with something worse, the nanocom is king
 
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