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Bracket and all.

The consensus seems to be it is easier to get the bracket plus compressor out rather than getting the compressor loose from the bracket.

There is one bracket bolt that is hard to get at but doable whereas compressor only, it is near impossible.

The hard part is undoing the air lines to the compressor without wrecking the fittings. To remove the air lines, push in on the fitting and pull gently on the air line, but it does not seem that way.

Also get some thread undo fluid and squirt in and around the air line fitting surrounds - seems to help, plus lots of wiggling.

Suggest you have the 3 on frame jacks and F26E removed or better yet, battery disconnected as the air system can let go. It is not supposed to but ....
 

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Ok, thanks once again for the suggestions. " The air lines are push in to remove and pull gently on the air line, but it does not seem that way." Did you mean to push in on the fitting and pull on the air line?
 

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Feel like a low rider

So my suspension light came on about 2 weeks ago and there was no difference in the ride till a couple of days ago. I parked my 2006 LR3 in my drive way for 3 days and took off out of town. When I got in it Monday to go to work the car was dropped as low as it could possibly go and it was so bouncy I was being thrashed around the car like a bobble head. When I tried to adjust the cars height nothing happened, the lights on the knobs will not even light up. However, they will light up when I first start the engine but the car dings within 2 seconds and the height option lights turn off. I'm guessing it's my compressor that needs to be replaced?? Yes, I'm a girl. I admit I don't know much about cars but I can fix just about anything what comes with instructions including my lift gate! Just want to make sure these are the right instructions for my issue. Thank you and please don't make fun of me, my head already hurts from all the bouncing around driving home from work. :)
 

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Compressor plus perhaps a small leak as well.

Probably you need a new compressor assuming the one in there is more than about three years old. If the compressor is good, there are many other things that could keep the compressor from at least starting up.

About all I can suggest for starters is to try a hard reset as below. The idea is to hopefully clear some of the fault codes and perhaps your compressor will start and run for awhile; hopefully long enough to get your 3 back up as driving around on the stops is no fun.

I am inclined to think that maybe the compressor does work, but not well. If so, it may be that the air dryer desiccant beads are deteriorating and plugging things up. If so, a new air dryer generally resolves this problem.

The reason I think your compressor is still working somewhat is that even though the air suspension trouble light was on, your 3 still maintained height.

Leaving the 3 un-started over the weekend allowed the auto level program to release the air that was in the system. Probably you have a small leak somewhere as well, hence there is more than one problem to be solved. Either that or the compressor does not work at all but your system is so leak free that it took two weeks plus the weekend for all the air to escape.

I wonder, did you use access mode a few times in that couple of weeks to lower the 3 and if so, I assume that the 3 did go back up. If so, the compressor was probably working somewhat.

Hard Reset Instructions

In brief, to start the hard reset process, open the hood but close all doors and let your 3 go to sleep - no radio display etc and no key in the ignition. This will take a couple of minutes and do not open any doors until the reset is completed. (I find that it is often a good idea to have the drivers door window rolled down and the key in my pocket whenever fooling about the vehicle.)

Disconnect the ground battery terminal from the main starting battery.
Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the main starting battery.

(I assume that you only have one battery in your 3. If not, disconnect the others as well and leave them disconnected until after all is done.)

Connect the negative cable to the positive cable. (NOT the battery.) You will need a short length, (a foot or so), of light gauge, (14 to 18 gauge AWG, insulated stranded copper), wire to span between the battery cable ends as there is not enough slack in the positive and negative battery cables for the ends to touch each other.

Hold all together for about a minute or more, as you are discharging memory modules within the engine computer and elsewhere. Then it is suggested you just let all sit disconnected for say ten minutes prior to commencing to put the battery cable ends back on the battery posts per the following.

Reattach positive terminal to the main starting battery positive post.
Reattach negative terminal to the main starting battery negative post.

Start engine and hopefully no or fewer warning lights.
Reset time on the radio - note that the station presets are still there as not everything is erased. Nothing much else needs resetting either.

You can now connect up the other batteries if you have a multiple battery setup.

This is a link to a thread in disco3 re the hard reset procedure.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Hard Reset

This is a link to a thread on Disco3Club re the hard reset procedure.

Disco3Club The Discovery 3 and 4 Owners Club • View topic - How To, Hard Reset on a D3


I would suggest that you review a number of files I have re the air system per the link below. The link is to my main album page. Within, there are three albums related specifically to the air system. Each album has a number of files within. Some of these files are air system block valve diagrams, other are wiring diagrams. I would suggest you download and print them out. You are going to need to reference them if you hope to solve the problem yourself. The first step however is the hard reset as above in the hopes that you can get your 3 back up.

If it goes back up or tries to, look for the files that reference fuse F26E as removal of it will be your next step.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Home > Member Galleries > bbyer
 

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Probably you need a new compressor assuming the one in there is more than about three years old. If the compressor is good, there are many other things that could keep the compressor from at least starting up.

About all I can suggest for starters is to try a hard reset as below. The idea is to hopefully clear some of the fault codes and perhaps your compressor will start and run for awhile; hopefully long enough to get your 3 back up as driving around on the stops is no fun.

I am inclined to think that maybe the compressor does work, but not well. If so, it may be that the air dryer desiccant beads are deteriorating and plugging things up. If so, a new air dryer generally resolves this problem.

The reason I think your compressor is still working somewhat is that even though the air suspension trouble light was on, your 3 still maintained height.

Leaving the 3 un-started over the weekend allowed the auto level program to release the air that was in the system. Probably you have a small leak somewhere as well, hence there is more than one problem to be solved. Either that or the compressor does not work at all but your system is so leak free that it took two weeks plus the weekend for all the air to escape.

I wonder, did you use access mode a few times in that couple of weeks to lower the 3 and if so, I assume that the 3 did go back up. If so, the compressor was probably working somewhat.

Hard Reset Instructions

In brief, to start the hard reset process, open the hood but close all doors and let your 3 go to sleep - no radio display etc and no key in the ignition. This will take a couple of minutes and do not open any doors until the reset is completed. (I find that it is often a good idea to have the drivers door window rolled down and the key in my pocket whenever fooling about the vehicle.)

Disconnect the ground battery terminal from the main starting battery.
Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the main starting battery.

(I assume that you only have one battery in your 3. If not, disconnect the others as well and leave them disconnected until after all is done.)

Connect the negative cable to the positive cable. (NOT the battery.) You will need a short length, (a foot or so), of light gauge, (14 to 18 gauge AWG, insulated stranded copper), wire to span between the battery cable ends as there is not enough slack in the positive and negative battery cables for the ends to touch each other.

Hold all together for about a minute or more, as you are discharging memory modules within the engine computer and elsewhere. Then it is suggested you just let all sit disconnected for say ten minutes prior to commencing to put the battery cable ends back on the battery posts per the following.

Reattach positive terminal to the main starting battery positive post.
Reattach negative terminal to the main starting battery negative post.

Start engine and hopefully no or fewer warning lights.
Reset time on the radio - note that the station presets are still there as not everything is erased. Nothing much else needs resetting either.

You can now connect up the other batteries if you have a multiple battery setup.

This is a link to a thread in disco3 re the hard reset procedure.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Hard Reset

This is a link to a thread on Disco3Club re the hard reset procedure.

Disco3Club The Discovery 3 and 4 Owners Club • View topic - How To, Hard Reset on a D3


I would suggest that you review a number of files I have re the air system per the link below. The link is to my main album page. Within, there are three albums related specifically to the air system. Each album has a number of files within. Some of these files are air system block valve diagrams, other are wiring diagrams. I would suggest you download and print them out. You are going to need to reference them if you hope to solve the problem yourself. The first step however is the hard reset as above in the hopes that you can get your 3 back up.

If it goes back up or tries to, look for the files that reference fuse F26E as removal of it will be your next step.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Home > Member Galleries > bbyer
Thanks for all your help.
Today I replaced the 60amp fuse and the suspension light turned off, the height control light turned back on! This is a good sign! I hear the compressor TRYING to work and it looked like the tires were inflating but the car never raised back up so it's still very low to the ground and still very bouncy. Oh and now my check engine light is on and my suspension light is also back on so I'm assuming I have blown the fuse again. I will try the Hard reset tomorrow but I don't think it will help much. Think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and buy a new compressor.
:bawling:
 

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at least you have isolated the problem

Yes, you are correct, it is most likely the compressor.

It could also be a wiring short to the compressor but given that you can hear the compressor trying to work, the odds are its motor has quit. Per the link below, with mine, the connecting rod disconnected from the rotating part, broke the con rod and that jammed the electric motor so it would not rotate - hence blown fuse as it should be.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Broken Air Compressor RQG500060

The solution was a new compressor.

It sounds like you figured out the air system wiring diagram and then were able to translate the pretty picture into the real world of under the hood. Well done.

I do not think I would even bother with the hard reset procedure as the new fuse did for a short while make most of the lights disappear and gets things back to normal.

If you have the NAV, call up the 4x4 info screen. I use it to watch the air system. With no air, you will not see much, but once you get the compressor replaced, keep an eye on the 4x4 info for a week or so to see that all is as it should be. If you watch it long enough, you will get to know what normal looks like and if lucky, will be able to observe small troubles before they become bigger ones.
 

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You can probably save a few dollars and order a new compressor from Lucky8llc... give them a call...
 

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Browsing this whole thread but my compressor issue seems to be slightly different. I actually had a crack in the compressor bracket so I replaced it. When we re-installed the compressor and the bracket together, the pump started making a loud rattling and vibrating noise. Does this mean the compressor / pump is going bad? My LR3 still lofts and lowers but the vibration noise is loud. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
 

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Browsing this whole thread but my compressor issue seems to be slightly different. I actually had a crack in the compressor bracket so I replaced it. When we re-installed the compressor and the bracket together, the pump started making a loud rattling and vibrating noise. Does this mean the compressor / pump is going bad? My LR3 still lofts and lowers but the vibration noise is loud. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Tighten bracket bolts to spec torque and check line fittings for proper engagement?
 

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Rubber vibration absorbers?

I assume the three rubber like vibration absorbers were still with the bracket?


 

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I tightened the bots and moved the rubber absorbers to the new bracket so I know that is not it... although good suggestions. As for the lines, are you referring to the air hoses? I checked all the lines going in and out, all seem to be just fine but I will check again. I'm pretty sure if I go to the dealer they will just want to replace it for who knows how much...

Thanks for the help.
 

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It could be as simple as your acoustic cover rattling against the compressor. Check the alignment of the clamshell cover first.
 

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I actually took the cover off and put it back on making sure all the "clips" were lined up and connected. I don't think that is it. I ran the pump while the cover was off but can't seem to trace the noise. The top part of the clam shell seems loose; does it mount to anything separately? Is it possible the pump is bad even though it's still listing the Rover? Thanks again!
 

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I have a 2005 LR3. I had to replace the air compressor twice. Once under warranty and then again just after it had passed warranty. Just a couple of weeks ago, I had new tires put on the car and I noticed that afterwards the steering wheel was slightly off center. (When the car was going straight, the steering wheel looked like it was turned to the right a few degrees.) Anyway, I got the warning lights coming on for the suspension. I came on this site (and maybe one other) trying to find out what may have been the problem. After reading a bunch of your posts, I ran across one where the poster asked if the steering wheel was crooked as part of the problem solving. That immediately made me perk up because I knew that my steering wheel was crooked since I had the tires put on. So, I took the car back to the tire place and they straightened out the steering wheel. Whatever they did, it not only straightened out the steering wheel but the lights haven't come back on since.

so, I'd recommend that you check out the steering wheel and make sure it's square when the car is going straight. If not, that could be your problem, not the air compressor. Why this would make the lights go on, I have no idea…. but someone in here suggested it and it solved my problem. So, thanks to that guy for sharing that clue. :clap:

PS: I believe the 'crooked steering wheel' tip I read was on another site. But I hope it can help someone find a quick, inexpensive fix.

and while I'm at it, I wouldn't trust a Land Rover dealer. My experience is that they charge huge amounts more than you would pay a regular mechanic to fix the problem. I also wouldn't put it past them to charge for a major repair even if the problem was a simple fix.
 

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light goes on because computer thinks 3 is skidding

I presume that the air suspension warning light would go on after driving what I will call a significant distance on a fairly straight road - a freeway rather than a city street.

What I am saying is that with stop and go city driving, the light for the most part remained off, but on the highway, the suspension warning light would eventually illuminate.

I theorize that on the freeway, the anti skid electronics see that the 3 is turning based on the steering wheel sensor output, however the yaw sensors tell the computers that your 3 is not turning.

As such, the computers default your 3 to safe mode as the inputs make no sense.

Then when you shut down, the computation is erased and after start up, the circuits start watching again.

In the city, because there is constant stop and go plus turning, the yaw circuitry never gets a chance to really "study" the apparent inconsistency and hence accepts the readings as city driving and that all is OK.
 

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Thanks everyone for all of the helpful information in this thread.

A few quick questions

- Is the part number LR023964 for the latest AMK compressor? [the thread is a bit dated and wanted to be sure]
- Going rate is 650$ on ebay, Is this the expected price
- Can the repair be done without jacking up the vehicle?

thanks very much for the help and glad to join the board :)
 

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You have to support your 3.

It is not so much a matter of jacking up your 3 as supporting it - and of course how many spare fingers you have.

With air suspension, even when not playing with it, the vehicle can always drop seemingly for no apparent reason. Replacement of the air compressor opens up many air lines but does not necessarily empty the air springs, hence at least 4 axle jacks, one under each corner of the frame is required.

The link / pdf below shows jacking points where all 3 tons of your 3 can be safely supported.

This link just under is to a number of albums. There are about 3 albums specifically related to the air system and within each, a number of files that may be of interest.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Home > Member Galleries > bbyer

http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/15405/Axle_Stand_Frame_Jacking_Points.pdf
 

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Thanks everyone for all of the helpful information in this thread.

A few quick questions

- Is the part number LR023964 for the latest AMK compressor? [the thread is a bit dated and wanted to be sure]
- Going rate is 650$ on ebay, Is this the expected price
- Can the repair be done without jacking up the vehicle?

thanks very much for the help and glad to join the board :)
Usually with LR if you request a part number they will show the superseded parted number.

If you are trying to get the original part best to get familiar with what it looks like if trying to get one on ebay to make sure you get the one you want.

changing it out is not to hard but yes as BByer said you dont really need to jack it up, just get it up in offroad height and get it supported so it does not adjust. then disconnect the battery to make sure everything is shut off.
 
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