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1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new (literally 3 days) to LRs and have just purchased a 2012 LR4 HSE with 97K miles on the clock.
It's in great shape -- EXCEPT -- that I've been having cooling-related issues.

Prior to purchase the seller had a mechanic replace the water pump. The mechanic was NOT an LR specialist but does have extensive engine experience so he's not a complete novice. In any event I drove it home (about 100miles) with no issues through the last Nor'Easter.

The next morning I received a "coolant level low" warning light and, checking the overflow, it did look low (below the "cold low" line.

1. I dropped my kids off at their schools then went to attend to it as I would have any of my prior vehicles (I'm a VW Audi convert) -- which meant letting it cool down a bit -- then open the overflow and top up.

(a) HOWEVER when I opened the overflow it burped back and flooded the tank when the pressure was released.
(b) From there I started getting 'overheat' warnings.

2. I had it taken to a local shop (the LR dealer is quite a ways away) who took a day to try to flush/bleed it -- they had all sorts of issues getting it to bleed and burp -- but again not a LR shop and if there had been any particular 'trick' I doubt they mastered it. After some troubles they did get it to stop showing either the low coolant light -- which was now showing with a full overflow tank (apparently ended up being a stuck sensor (??)) and not overheating.

I DID have heat in the front for most of the day yesterday... UNTIL... I picked up my eldest who promptly turned on the rear heat and suddenly ALL the heat stopped blowing warm.

I'm assuming its an air bubble associated with the rear-heat that wasn't exorcised from the system that's now through it -- or could it be something else?

Is there an EASY way to remedy this without getting that overheat issue last time I touched the cooling system?
I do have it booked in to the LR dealer for Monday but -- given temps up here in New England -- would much appreciate having a car WITH heat for the interim period.

Thanks so much for any tips.


28 Posts
Thats a bit to digest. I wouldnt let anyone who is not pretty familiar with those engines do cooling repairs. lots of little traps for young gamers built in from the factory. If it got hot the coolant manifolds should be replaced before they crack. The dealer has instructions from land rover to allways vacuum fill/bleed the engines with a vacuum coolant fill tool for this reason but i have had issues trying to bleed cars that other dealers have sent to me with prior work being done by there guys. Take alot of caution with cooling system leaks the engine is an all aluminum block heads everything when it gets hot it likes to bend.

19 Posts
Make sure you get the correct coolant.

This is lifted from the service instructions.

"Set the heater controls to maximum.

CAUTION: Observe the engine temperature gauge. If the engine starts to over-heat switch off immediately and allow to cool. Failure to follow this instruction may cause damage to the vehicle

Start the engine and idle until hot air is emitted at the face registers.

Switch the heater off.
Raise the engine speed to 2000 RPM for eight minutes.

Top up as necessary"

I changed the water pump on mine and there were a few air bubbles in the system even with using a vacuum tool. But be very careful driving until the coolant circuit is totally air free.

hope it helps,

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