Now that I have passed the 100,000 mile mark, what suggestions does anyone have about maintenance shedule. I continue to change the oil and filter every 3,500 miles, clean the K&N air filter every 15,000 miles, change trans fluid every 30,000. Other than that what schedule should I follow? :wave:
Maintenance Suggestions for over 100K
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16,548 Posts
Now is the time to start getting serious about your servicing.
First of all, if the do any off roading, clean that K&N alot more often, I do mine after every dusty run and it is usually packed at that point.
Do your engine oil more frequently like every 2500 to 3000 miles and you might start using an engine flush evrey 10,000 miles before the oil change, get rid of a lot of sludge.
The transmission should be done every 20,000 as the seals are wearing out and more slippage can occur.
Have you changed your plug wires yet, how about your O2 sensors, if not, they are due.
Also flush your barek fluid at least every 30,000 miles as well as your power steering fluids.
This is also a great time to start using additives like Lucas for example, it will help you stretch out your trucks mileage.
Good luck,
Mike J.
First of all, if the do any off roading, clean that K&N alot more often, I do mine after every dusty run and it is usually packed at that point.
Do your engine oil more frequently like every 2500 to 3000 miles and you might start using an engine flush evrey 10,000 miles before the oil change, get rid of a lot of sludge.
The transmission should be done every 20,000 as the seals are wearing out and more slippage can occur.
Have you changed your plug wires yet, how about your O2 sensors, if not, they are due.
Also flush your barek fluid at least every 30,000 miles as well as your power steering fluids.
This is also a great time to start using additives like Lucas for example, it will help you stretch out your trucks mileage.
Good luck,
Mike J.
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3,205 Posts
I might add that I had replaced my coil and relocated the ignition module. There is a kit for the ignition module relocation.
I would also check the seal on the front inside hubs and make sure they have some fresh grease inside. Might prevent you from having to replace a CV joint. Although if the seal is leaking badly you'll have to remove everything to get to it so you might want to replace CV joints just for fun. Well if you tear it down that far replace them trust me that is not a fun job. Not hard mind you just messy and time consuming.
Take up the floor carpets and look for rust on the floor pans. You can take the carpets out and hose them off at the car wash. That's what I did and they look surprisingly good now.
I change my engine oil every 3000 and I use 20w50 Castrol. It's done me right in two vehicles so far.
Radiator flush. I had trouble with my radiator about that time and managed to over heat it and that caused me a head gasket problem.
153,000 on my 1993 LWB.
Like Disco Mike says, get serious and you'll be able to drive that baby another 100,000 miles.
I would also check the seal on the front inside hubs and make sure they have some fresh grease inside. Might prevent you from having to replace a CV joint. Although if the seal is leaking badly you'll have to remove everything to get to it so you might want to replace CV joints just for fun. Well if you tear it down that far replace them trust me that is not a fun job. Not hard mind you just messy and time consuming.
Take up the floor carpets and look for rust on the floor pans. You can take the carpets out and hose them off at the car wash. That's what I did and they look surprisingly good now.
I change my engine oil every 3000 and I use 20w50 Castrol. It's done me right in two vehicles so far.
Radiator flush. I had trouble with my radiator about that time and managed to over heat it and that caused me a head gasket problem.
153,000 on my 1993 LWB.
Like Disco Mike says, get serious and you'll be able to drive that baby another 100,000 miles.
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490 Posts
All that maintenance is great guys, but my 92 Classic (3.9L) has basically 200k miles on it still runs very well, has NEVER had the trans fluid changed since the first time under warranty, and never slips or doesn't go into gear. We put the Land Rover grease into the swivel balls on the front 40k ago and never a problem. The CV's and silver balls are original. We checked the steering full lock before we bought it no clicks. 4x4 system is perfect. We change the oil every 3k miles always and use Lucas Oil Stabilizer since the truck does use some oil. We put new but standard copper plugs into it, but has the same Rists Suppression plug wires on it it has had forever. New cap / rotor 30k ago. We've replaced the entire exhaust system one piece at a time from the headers back including both cats but the car has the original O2 sensors in them. No check Engine Light ever (it does work)
Radiator is original / no problems.
Really, these cars can take quite a bit of abuse mechanically, but I recommend change the oil sooner rather than later even when their young.
I live in a brutally cold climate in the winter (has been -20F for the last week) with lots of snow and truck is canadian model with DRL and block heater which we use. It gets to 90F in the summer or more here too, though, so truck sees the extremes.
The brakes need plenty of work, and the truck needs a headgasket, and of course is fairly clunky. But very reliable and tough machine.
I've heard the 4.2L LWB's can have premature engine failure due to shifted cylinder liners, and its true some have new engines at very low mileages. (DAP says an LWB w/ original engine at more than 100k miles is living on borrowed time) Others have said they have never heard of this problem and there are, in fact original LWB's with 300k on the 1st motor.
Change the oil, don't let the car overheat, and don't let the RPM's get low on a long hill (don't let the car dog) Shift into third, or even 2nd gear. It is much better for the engine to be at 4,000 RPMS up a long hill then at 2300 dogging up the hill. The engine gets much hotter and you can shift a liner. (says RPI Engineering in the UK)
Radiator is original / no problems.
Really, these cars can take quite a bit of abuse mechanically, but I recommend change the oil sooner rather than later even when their young.
I live in a brutally cold climate in the winter (has been -20F for the last week) with lots of snow and truck is canadian model with DRL and block heater which we use. It gets to 90F in the summer or more here too, though, so truck sees the extremes.
The brakes need plenty of work, and the truck needs a headgasket, and of course is fairly clunky. But very reliable and tough machine.
I've heard the 4.2L LWB's can have premature engine failure due to shifted cylinder liners, and its true some have new engines at very low mileages. (DAP says an LWB w/ original engine at more than 100k miles is living on borrowed time) Others have said they have never heard of this problem and there are, in fact original LWB's with 300k on the 1st motor.
Change the oil, don't let the car overheat, and don't let the RPM's get low on a long hill (don't let the car dog) Shift into third, or even 2nd gear. It is much better for the engine to be at 4,000 RPMS up a long hill then at 2300 dogging up the hill. The engine gets much hotter and you can shift a liner. (says RPI Engineering in the UK)
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