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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

So I have tried ignoring the problem but that hasn't worked. Every morning, and it is only morning, several of the relays under the dash click continuously. The red gear selection indicator lights also click (but no M&S lights). The windows will judder up slowly, cutting out as the relays drop out. The indicators do the same.

She starts first time and the automatic gear change is no problem.

I only drive 10 mins to work and the clicking (from all the relays) slows a little. When I come to drive home again there is absolutely no clicking at all and all the gear lights behave themselves.

Also but maybe separate to the issue; I have to press the keyfob at least 3 times to get the catch up.

I'm thinking fuse box Earth wire but have no idea where it is. The Earth points by the battery seem good.

Has anyone had this before?

All help much appreciated,

Rob
 

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Sounds like a low voltage issue to me. If your battery and/or alternator are weak, coupled with only a 10min drive, it could explain your issues. I would check those first. All sorts of wonky things start happening when voltage gets low.
 

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Is it possibly just when it is really cold out.
Both my 2000 and my 2002 have had no gauges, no signals when it is about minus 15 Celsius or colder. Goes away in about 5 minutes and all is good
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cheers helievacpilot. I was thinking mornings mean damp and a bit colder but it only drops to about 10-15C here so that didn't make much sense. Never considered the lack of charge. Shall dig my V meter out to see if/how much charge the battery loses overnight.
 

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Cheers helievacpilot. I was thinking mornings mean damp and a bit colder but it only drops to about 10-15C here so that didn't make much sense. Never considered the lack of charge. Shall dig my V meter out to see if/how much charge the battery loses overnight.
Stick the volt meter on it while it's running as well. Should be around 14-14.2 volts. Would be best to get current as well, but at least it can let you know the output voltage of the alternator is correct.
 

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Hi, if the charging is good measure the voltage while cranking and if it drops below 10.5V it means that the battery's CCA is getting weak so time for a new one, it should keep the CCA down to -17 but when they get old this threshold is starting to rise and the voltage will drop harder from -10 or even higher temps and that clicking relays symptom is specific for low voltage on cranking
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks everyone for your input. I've checked to see if the battery loses any charge overnight and it doesn't. The alternator feeds over 14V with a bit of throttle and I've also swapped in my spare battery and have the same symptoms. I've also noticed that using the windscreen wiper causes the clicking to stop. Whilst this might seem like a brilliant quick fix I don't think its much of a long term solution!

I've quite a bit of surface rust on the metal around the fuse box and have cleaned one obvious earth point slightly to the right of the box and easily accessible which was a bit loose but that's made no difference. I'd like to check the earth for the fuse box. I'm thinking the battery cant shove the current through if the earth is lose. Does anyone know where the earth is for these relays?

Thanks in advance everyone
 

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The fusebox is not earthed, every relay gets command on earth path from the system which is associated to it so if you want to check earth make sure that the ECM has good earth connections(on that "rail" woth 3 connections under the battery cover toward the wheel arch) or the main body earth connected to the battery neg lead is solid... ir would be good to check voltage on the battery while cranking though cos that will reveal it's real status not the fact that it holds the charge over night(as i explained in my first reply)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The fusebox is not earthed, every relay gets command on earth path from the system which is associated to it so if you want to check earth make sure that the ECM has good earth connections(on that "rail" woth 3 connections under the battery cover toward the wheel arch) or the main body earth connected to the battery neg lead is solid... ir would be good to check voltage on the battery while cranking though cos that will reveal it's real status not the fact that it holds the charge over night(as i explained in my first reply)
Cheers Sierrafery, I havent checked the cranking voltage as I put a different battery in. I did replace the ECU a while ago after I sunk it with a second hand one so I'll take it out and give it a check over.
 

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Cheers Sierrafery, I havent checked the cranking voltage as I put a different battery in. I did replace the ECU a while ago after I sunk it with a second hand one so I'll take it out and give it a check over.
"Sunk it"? How deep was deep? If you had to replace a ECU, you probably got a lot of other stuff wet too, no?
You might be in for a challenge here if we're talking water ingress issues. D2 electrics and water definitely do not mix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sorry, it wasn't the ECU that got wet but the gearbox computer under the driver's chair (in a left hander) No other electrics got wet just about 4 inches deep in the truck on the left side only. The 3 earths by the battery are sound and terminal connections are solid. I'll dig out rave and have a look.
 

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Check with "number9" maybe he can restate the obvious again as usual ;)
 

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Sorry, it wasn't the ECU that got wet but the gearbox computer under the driver's chair (in a left hander) No other electrics got wet just about 4 inches deep in the truck on the left side only. The 3 earths by the battery are sound and terminal connections are solid. I'll dig out rave and have a look.
I don't know. Hard to believe that 4in. of water in the cabin, even if only on the left side got nothing else electrical wet?
 
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