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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
had CE light on, checked and i got a code of p1316. did a search and seems like someone had the same problem but had another code spit out. I only have the P1316. Planning on changing distributer cap, new rotor arm, new wires and new plugs to see if that helps at all... going to run some seafoam through before too. Any other suggestions what might be the case of this?
I not blowing smoke, coolant level is fine so I don't think it's my head gasket. Oil is dropping but that's nothing new.
Suggestions anyone?
take care
 

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Sounds like a good plan so far, let us know how it is running after wards, has the code gone away, have you cleared it, and are there any new codes?
Mike J.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well.. i replaced plugs and wires. also ran so seafoam through. running alot better but now i'm getting a muffled backfire sound at idle.
Though i'm not getting anymore codes.. least not yet but have not driven it a whole lot.
Going to see where that 'muffled backfire' sound is coming from soon.. though yesterday it sounded like it's coming from the engine.. so checked all the fluids and my diffs oil is milky white.. going to have to change very soon and extend those breathers... also seems like i've got a slow leak on my passenger side swivel ball too... :(
take care
sam
 

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Prepare yourself for a head job. You may well have the dreaded stuck/sticking valve problem leading to "Random muliplte catalyst damaging misfires".

Peace,
PT
 

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Dent,
What year, model and mileage are you driving? Describe the muffled sound in a little better detail.
Mike J.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
damn.. really wanted to stay away from the head job :bawling:
it's 96 disco with about 150,000 km, so close to 100.000 miles...
the usual sticky valve clicks aren't there, well they are but not to bad...
as for the sound, can't discribe it more than a muffled backfire, a very muffled. Unless you know your truck and know what to listen for, you'll barely notice it.
please please don't say i need a head job... pleeeasseee!!!
my bank account will not allow for a head job. just replaced my 5sp gear box just 4 months ago and that took away all my goodies cash.
new bumper, lift, winch, etc :(
take care
sam
 

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I would be far more concerned with the milky diff oil – this is causing damage. If the engine runs OK and you are getting no messages or warning lights, turn the radio up and just enjoy your vehicle :drive: . I doubt that your misfire noise is causing damage and if it gets really bad you will probably then know what is causing it ;) .
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
1955diesel said:
I would be far more concerned with the milky diff oil – this is causing damage.
Not too concerned about it as I suspect water just got in somehow. Maybe breather tube while i was crossing a river a few weeks back.
Think your right, i'm prolly paranoid about nothing. Will just turn up the radio go about my merry way. Though at times it is kinda hard not to be paranoid as an odd sound if caught fast is going to cost less $$$ than down the road... oh well :)
take care
sam
 

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How about doing a good engine flush on it this weekend and see how much crap you can get out of the engine. This could really help and it is easy, cheap to do.
Have you ever pulled the oil pan? I have seen a number of posts where guys have pulled the pan and found the oil pick up plugged or even loose.
Just a thought,
Mike J.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
hey mike, thanks for the suggestions but i pulled the oil pan last weekend just to clean it out and see what kinda crap i got in there. Would tell me the condition of the internals. Was pretty good, not much crap in there, no gunk etc...
As for an engine flush, doing an oil change, pour engine flush crap in, run engine and do another oil change or take it to a mr lube kinda place for them to do one?
I had though by running seafoam through, it'd be an equivalent of an engine flush...
take care
sam
 

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I believe in the mechanic type flushes but also believe you can do a pretty good job with the home version, I do it twice a year with oil changes.
So Go forr it, do it your self, if you notice a difference do it again with your next oil change, and yes for for the SeaFoam too, whar the hell it is only $6.00.
Mike J.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
well, engine is still sputtering :( think i'm giong to have to do a valve, head job.
What do you guys think, something i can do by myself or take it to a mechanic?
take care
sam
 

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dent said:
well, engine is still sputtering :( think i'm giong to have to do a valve, head job.
What do you guys think, something i can do by myself or take it to a mechanic?
take care
sam
Do it yourself and save half the cost of having someone else do it.

I quote these jobs at $1300 US, the parts shouldn't run more than half that.
 

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Sam,
You might want to consider to a compression test, wet and dry and also a cyclinder leak down test.
If you have need of a valve job it will show u[ here, if it doesn't then you need to be looking in a different direction.
Mike J.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Mike, you read my mind., trunk heading to a shop tomarrow for a compression test to verify. depending on what happens there, i'm either going to start ordering some parts for a head job and looking for a machine shop or head back home, sit infront of the disco with a beer in my hand and talk sweetly to it to behave, then contemplate about swapping the gas out for a diesel :D maybe this ought to give me an excuse to do that instead of a valve/ head job... hhmm... maybe this is a blessing in disguise....
take care
sam
 

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Good,
Make sure they do a leak down to verify if the valves are not seating or are leaking.
Mike J.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
mike, that's for the advice, will most definatly make sure that they do that.
much appreciated
sam
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
well, i'm in the process of taking the heads off and was shopping around for new exhast valves. Found out that there are a 'new' kind of valves that's 'stepped' which solves the prone carbon build up on the valves.
wonder why lr never did a recall or things of that nature when they knew it was designed wrong and the made a new one... oh well... if any of you have any tips or suggestions, it's be appreciated
oh, also found a machine shop here that has a brand spanking new engine. well not new, has about 6,000km on it and is willing to part with the heads for a grand total of $500 except i'm going to have to supply 1 exhast valve.
to have my current one machined it's be about $200 for both sides, then i'd have to supply new valves at $50 each, so i think i found a deal here... anyone have a reason why i shouldn't go with the new ones?
take care
sam
 

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Misfires

Before you go stripping our engine try a fuel treatment. In particular the one that is available through Land Rover dealerships. It is a product that is made by Chevron Texaco. It is the best fuel treatment on the market. I have been selling and using this for years and the results are remarkable. It does not burn and leaves no residue. All the info is available on their website. Regular use with this product will reduce the carbon build up to zero and prevent it from re-occurring. Fuel in North America is of a lower quality than Europe and it is common for Land Rovers to carbon up. If you or others need more info - happy to oblige. Try it you've nothing to lose! :)
 
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