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maybe some tool holders for... like a flashlight and other common hand tools? or a fire extinguisher!!! WLA would love a "halogen" fire extinguisher there
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
maybe some tool holders for... like a flashlight and other common hand tools? or a fire extinguisher!!! WLA would love a "halogen" fire extinguisher there
While a fire extinguisher there would be a great idea, I don't think there is enough room for one (I only have about an inch of space to spare) - and I don't have the required bulletproofing to be WLA approved lol. A flashlight holder for sure, and maybe some room for fire starters or one of those thin lithium jump packs or something like that would be nice.
There also aren't very many places to rivet because of the stuff behind it (wiring, window regulator, lock assembly, etc), so that also limits where I can mount things to it. I'll take a look at the picture I have of the bare panel to see what I can mount to it.
 

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true. maybe you should fill the panel with various gauges like altimeters and barometers and hygrometers (oh my) like WLA said. the fact that you won't be able to see them won't matter because they're pointless anyway hehehehe.
 

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Seems not much reason to have the window able to open, no need for the regulator or window track- more room for other stuff maybe - even a "recessed" panel?
 

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You might want to check this guy out- he did a similar build and you'll get really good ideas from him- he's very meticulous in his design and has great skills- actually check both these guys out- Tinker and Dirtlifestyle on Youtube
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Seems not much reason to have the window able to open, no need for the regulator or window track- more room for other stuff maybe - even a "recessed" panel?
I like still having all the factory functionality - having the window roll down to add a little ventilation is nice. I also have a feeling that gutting it would cause it to be even weaker than it already is, which is already a low bar. It is a cool idea, just a little past my skill level with the bracing and stuff that I’m sure would be required to keep it from turning into a wet noodle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
You might want to check this guy out- he did a similar build and you'll get really good ideas from him- he's very meticulous in his design and has great skills- actually check both these guys out- Tinker and Dirtlifestyle on Youtube
Lol that’s awesome - I actually watched all three of those videos before I began (among a few others from both of those channels and a couple more), and they were very good inspiration for thinking about how I wanted it to be laid out. Each has some very cool ideas for their rigs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Ok, I’ve made some more progress in the last week or so. I have started work on the bench side - this consists of a plywood frame, with covers that lift off (for the small one) or flip out (for the big one).
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I used piano hinges to allow another piece on top to fold out, so that I can have a full-width bed. Getting this to work properly was difficult, but it now works well. All of this is attached to factory mounting points for the seats.
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I also made a flat metal door panel for the rear door with pull straps to close and open, and made a cutout for the factory 12V outlet in the side of the cabinet, as well as the factory media thing inside the cabinet.
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As you can see, I also painted the bench side. In keeping with my orange strap theme (actually old ratchet straps I had laying around), I used them for handles on the door and fold out storage section, as well as to keep the fold- out bed section in place when the storage is open.

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This storage section alone held most of my recovery gear and extra parts, with the small section dedicated to my tool sets.
Overall, I think this side is turning out very well so far. Next, I’ll find a way to make supports for the fold-out bed - I just have random pieces of wood right now to support it for the pictures I took.
 

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On the fold out bed supports- you could put a rail the full length where it is level on the other side- attached to your cabinet- and split it where those door seams are- for it to rest on- then you just need to make sure the doors have some sort of slider lock on them so they don't pop open when your weight is on the bed. I've seen lots of builds do that and it works really well. In fact the "rail" can double as the door pulls too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
On the fold out bed supports- you could put a rail the full length where it is level on the other side- attached to your cabinet- and split it where those door seams are- for it to rest on- then you just need to make sure the doors have some sort of slider lock on them so they don't pop open when your weight is on the bed. I've seen lots of builds do that and it works really well. In fact the "rail" can double as the door pulls too.
That’s a really good idea actually - I’ll look into it for sure. Thanks
 

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Looking slick!!!
 
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Nice work (y) i wish i'd be able to do such thing but i'm good only with electrics :cry:
 
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Got a flat metal door panel installed on the other side, as the factory door panel interfered there as well. I didn’t get a picture, but it’s basically identical to the one behind the cabinet, only with an orange pull to close it from the inside. Next, I’ll tackle the cabinet doors. I’ll update again once I get them done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Another update!
In the past week, I’ve made some very good progress. I found a large slab of soapstone in my backyard (scrap from a kitchen remodel a few years back), so I decided to use it in the camper. I cut it to size and epoxied it to the cabinetry and a metal bracket in the car for the third row under the window. This makes it nice and sturdy, and puts the counter right at the height of the bottom of the window. I then hit it with some mineral oil to season it. I think it came out great, and is a super solid and cool-looking addition to the camper.
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Then, I tackled the cabinet doors. I used a shaper to make a simple yet elegant Shaker-style recessed panel out of 3/4” poplar and 1/4” plywood for the centers, which I then glued and screwed together and then painted. I then mounted them with simple exterior-mount hinges, which I think give an interesting industrial vibe to the cabinets that I like.
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I then made some pulls out of the same orange strap I used for the rear door pull, which also gives an interesting and unique industrialist vibe that I love.
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Overall, I think it has been coming out amazing so far, and I’m very excited to continue working on it. Next, I’ll figure out latches to keep the doors shut while I’m driving, as well as supports for the fold out bed - since the doors came out so well, I’m not sure I want to have a bar going across them to support the platform.
 

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hooray for carpentry!

I got a free 64" vanity from my neighbor that I built into my laundry room last weekend, and I had to build some shaker doors to match the rest of my home. first time doin this:

after spackle and paint they should look fine
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note to self: even the more expensive harbor freight compound miter saw has too much slop for precision work
 
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are you not concerned about the weight of the soapstone?
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
are you not concerned about the weight of the soapstone?
Not really. In total, the back seats, trim, and various other stuff (seat belts, rear door subwoofer, etc) I pulled out probably weighed somewhere around 300 pounds. The slab of soapstone was around 120 if I had to guess. I’d guess I have around 150-200 in wood and supplies back there so far, so I’m just barely above the factory empty weight. Therefore, I’m well under the factory weight rating, and it drives well - and once the camper is done, I’m not going to put much more than a few bags back there, so I’m not worried about the weight.
 

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less than the total curb weight, I suppose I'm curious about the balance. nicer counter than in my kitchen tho!
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
note to self: even the more expensive harbor freight compound miter saw has too much slop for precision work
Agreed in your comment about the lack of quality from the Harbor Freight miter saws. I too made the mistake of buying on of those and they certainly aren’t great. I got a Hitachi to replace it that cuts great, and the Harbor Freight saw is now used to cut scrap so it will fit in my wood stove.
less than the total curb weight, I suppose I'm curious about the balance. nicer counter than in my kitchen tho!
Thanks! The balance seems fine - I’ve taken a couple corners kinda fast since I got it in and it seems to roll equally to both sides, and doesn’t seem to drive differently than before. I suppose it’s no different than having a 10 year old in the third row on the drivers side - it’s not up super high.
 

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lack of quality from the Harbor Freight miter saws
I bought it for doing my baseboard trim. At first I couldn’t understand why my 22.5° didn’t meet right. Turns out that putting pressure bends the whole stupid thing out of whack.
 
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