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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I bought it for doing my baseboard trim. At first I couldn’t understand why my 22.5° didn’t meet right. Turns out that putting pressure bends the whole stupid thing out of whack.
I got mine for crown molding when I redid my kitchen. I had a similar issue - the 22.5 setting was more like 24.3, so nothing lined up right. And when I set it up manually, the pressure caused it to deflect. So it’s been relegated to scrap cutting
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Ok, another update. In my pile of old house stuff, I found a small lamp that I thought would look awesome over the counter. I wedged a 12V reverse light into the household outlet by screwing a hose clamp around the base of the light and shoving it in there. I then mounted the light, and ran wire up to the factory rear dome light, so the light works on the factory dome light switch. It came out really well, and even slowly dims off on the door setting like the rest of the lights.
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I also figured out the supports for the fold out bed - kinda. I have three boards at the correct height strapped to the side of the bench that fold out to support it, which works well, but it impedes on the hinge for the fold out storage, so I’ll have to figure that out later.
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Next, I’ll try to find a way to fix this, and also
figure out a sink system.
 

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Looks awesome! Almost a little too glam lol.

in my transporter, we ended up not doing a hinged piece, and just had two sections that you lifted up and then set in place. It was decidedly easier than engineering a hinged solution, but not as neat
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Thanks! Certainly makes seeing stuff in it at night a lot easier.
I've already got the hinges and really like that functionality for the bed conversion, so I'm going to try my best to modify the support storage solution so it works with the fold out storage. I'm sure I'll think of something. I also got the chance to lay out on it, and I'm a couple inches longer than the platform if I don't lay at an angle, so I'll come up with something to extend it when the passenger seat is moved forward - probably just another hinged section, with something underneath to support it.
 

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Maybe you could mod the tumbling 2nd row seat as the passenger seat? That way you could bring company if you wanted? I agree; not being able to sprawl is a dealbreaker, but forever rollin’ solo sounds like a bummer
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Agreed. I’m going to try to keep the factory passenger seat, and have a fold out extender for the bed - when the extender is in use, the seat just has to be motored forward a little bit. I pulled it all the way up yesterday and there is plenty of room if I do that, so I can bring another person if I want. They just can’t use the seat when the bed is in use. Once it’s time to get back on the road, fold the extender up, whir the seat back into place, and you have both a functional passenger seat and plenty of room to stretch out when it’s pulled forward. Modding the rear seat could be a nice addition though, as if I am rolling solo, I can fold it up and use the space for a lot more storage, and there isn’t an electric motor to burn out. I’ll look into it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Ok, I figured out the extender and support situation. I used the same pieces of wood for supports, and simply re-mounted them out of the way of the fold out storage. For the extender, I figured that if I pull the front seat all the way forward, I have plenty of room to lay out. I then just made another piece of wood that folds out, then out again to get the required width and length. This is all held in place with the orange strap that has become a signature part of the camper. Pictures:
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It is certainly coming together well. Next, I’ll try to figure out a sink setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Ok, this is going to be a long post. I got the sink setup to a fully operational point, and I’m super happy with how it came out.
Originally, I wanted to do a fully integrated vessel sink on top of the counter, but the counter turned out to be a little small for that - I want there to be as much space there as possible for working, prepping meals, etc. Therefore, I had to find a different way to do this. Ultimately, I converted my old 6 gallon water container into the sink by cutting the spout off and integrating some old plumbing parts into it. A hose extends down into the bottom of the tank, which goes into a valve, converting into a clear acrylic tube that folds out from inside the door frame, allowing the spout to sit farther from the side of the truck while extended. To pump water, I pressurize the tank with a small tire pump through a tire valve stem that I put into the tank. This reduces the chance of leaks from a pump, as well as being simple to wire in because of its 12V architecture. I sealed up the remaining leaks with a heavy application of RTV. In the end, it works far better than I could have expected, and makes use of that side door that was once useless. I finished it off with a soap holder and paper towel roll holder to make it as convenient to use as possible.
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Need a larger tank! Also a route up high for a shower!
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Need a larger tank! Also a route up high for a shower!
Agreed on both counts - the 6 gallons works well, but only for a few days worth of hand washing and doing dishes. It’s about the largest I could squeeze into that area without making my own container or sacrificing other storage areas. At least it’s super easy to refill with a garden hose - the outer diameter of the pipe is exactly the inner diameter of a garden hose fitting, so it refills in around a minute or so. I did think of a longer hose - I took a section of garden hose and made it so it will attach to that. I made it long enough to go up to the engine bay in case I need to top off coolant in case of emergency, but it would also work well for a shower if I wrapped a section of it around the roof rack. The relatively small capacity greatly limits this though - you might only get a shower or two out of it before needing to refill. It does have plenty of pressure to pump water that high, though.
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Have you seen the guys who take a 6+” PVC pipe along the roofline and use that as a pressurized water vessel? When the pressure is depleted (not an issue with your pump) you’ve still got gravity

may be harder to fill and susceptible to tree branches, but would free up valuable cabin space. May get hot in the sun too
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
I have seen those. I wonder got much water they hold? Doesn’t seem to be all that much unless you have multiple. I was thinking maybe a metal container that sits flush with the floor in the rear footwell? Not sure yet
 

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Neat, check this out:

An 8” pipe that’s 8’ long would hold 20gal
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Interesting. That seems like it would work well. Would all that weight up high be detrimental to stability or handling? That’s almost 170 lbs of water mounted on the roof, before any other gear (such as the roof top tent I have). That’s far more than the recommended weights (110 lbs on road, 66 lbs off road). I do realize that most of those values are lawyer-ified to be on the safe side though, so it’s certainly still an option.
 

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I’ve gone out a few times with hundreds of pounds on my roof rack. I didn’t notice it, but I’ve also got the HD springs from OME.

it might be awkward having that weight biased to one side though. Hasn’t stopped everybody else though!

I saw a neat one that was four lengths of pipe made into a square [] sitting on the roof like a crown… evenly distributing the weight. I would imagine that could create some shifts when on unlevel ground tho.

check these cats out:

they’ll make you a water tank to fit whatever wherever!
 
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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
I’ve got the medium duty Terrafirma springs. Certainly not as stiff as your setup, although when I was still using my truck as a big van I had around 1,000 lbs of soapstone in the back and it seemed to handle it just fine, so a couple hundred on the roof might not be a big deal. I could always keep the sink I have now and only fill the roof mounted one when I’m going camping
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
That could work really well. I already have more weight on the driver side (me, the sink I have now, and the soapstone counter), so I could just mount it over the passenger side to help balance things out. Those custom tanks are also super sweet - I don’t want to spend a ton of money though, which is why I really like the PVC pipe idea.
 

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That’s true, the water could be an intentional counterbalance!

I found those abbertanks guys on another forum, and a user said they made him a custom tank to fit precisely in his spare tire well for $260, and it included a fill aperture and dispense valve. Our discos don’t have a whole lot of extra cavities though
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Those tanks are super sweet. I’m just not sure where I could hide one that would hold the amount of water I need. I’m still thinking the roof mount is nice. Keep the sink inside for cold water for dishes and stuff, and you have extra in the roof storage if you need it, and if I paint it black, it will be kinda hot if I park in the sun so it’ll be a somewhat comfortable temperature for a shower.
 

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Yeah roof is probably boss. The disco is well designed enough that it doesn’t have many spacial voids, especially after your camper conversion
 
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