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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Yeah - it’s basically a giant box. There are a few spacial voids with the trim installed, but way it’s set up, especially after ripping all the plastic trim out, there is very little wasted space in my camper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Ok, another update. Did some more wiring. I hard-mounted an inverter just below the light and ran the cable through holes to inside the cabinet, and then spliced everything into the 12v socket wiring. I also did the same thing to run the 12v pump for the sink I installed, and used it as an opportunity to run the wiring for the sink pump to a household switch to make it more convenient. This setup means I can run stuff off the 12v socket and the inverter at the same time, while having the pump on the same circuit. It’s a really nice setup that looks great and operates really nicely.
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I’m really happy with how this came out, and while I’ll have to be mindful of power draw when using more than one of the items on this power output, it’s a great solution for my setup.
 

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Have you considered another battery with an isolator? Back in my car stereo days, we did that a lot. The isolators will prevent you from depleting the most important battery of all!
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
I have, I just wasn’t sure how to do that or where to put the extra battery. I have a massive, brand new top-tier Interstate in it, so I’m not super concerned, and I will most likely be starting the truck every day to go exploring when I’m camping (camp, pack up, explore all day, set up again, repeat), so I think I’ll be fine. I have a voltmeter installed so I can monitor that.
 

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I just learned last night that if you remove your battery and (worthless) OEM Jack stowage you can fit two batteries long ways where you only have one. I’m about to do that for my winch and aux lighting

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Oh sweet. I’ll have to look into that
 

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I've found three or four sellers from back in the day, only one still standing in 2021... but $175 for a metal pan? hard pass (-;
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
I've found three or four sellers from back in the day, only one still standing in 2021... but $175 for a metal pan? hard pass (-;
My thoughts exactly. Although you could loosely base a homemade design off the product images, which is nice, and likely the route I’d go down if I go to a dual battery setup.

Also, out of curiosity, how would you wire it so you don’t drain both batteries, just the one? Or is the point just to have more capacity? Everything is run off the factory 12v wiring so it’s not like I can wire it separately. Even if I could, how would the wiring work so that only one gets drained, but they both charge when the truck is running?
 

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this is where the debate kicks off!

A) if you wire them in parallel (not series, that'll give you 24V), then you've just got MEGA battery capacity at all times, but if you run out of juice, you're just as dead as a single batt setup

you can then insert a circuit breaker between the two + leads, to physically engage batt2 when needed with an onboard trickle charger to keep it topped off otherwise

B) you can keep them completely isolated with logic to charge the primary first and the aux afterward, and keep your ancillaries on the aux battery.

for me, it's all about option A, because my winch and lights draw many many amps, and I want all amps available... but can keep the aux battery disconnected for normal tooling around town. this way will also allow you to "jump start" yourself under normal driving conditions if you need it

there are even more possibilities beyond that, but separate/parallel is the primary distinction, and the most important for option A is that your batteries are identical and in comparable health
 
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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
this is where the debate kicks off!

A) if you wire them in parallel (not series, that'll give you 24V), then you've just got MEGA battery capacity at all times, but if you run out of juice, you're just as dead as a single batt setup

you can then insert a circuit breaker between the two + leads, to physically engage batt2 when needed with an onboard trickle charger to keep it topped off otherwise

B) you can keep them completely isolated with logic to charge the primary first and the aux afterward, and keep your ancillaries on the aux battery.

for me, it's all about option A, because my winch and lights draw many many amps, and I want all amps available... but can keep the aux battery disconnected for normal tooling around town. this way will also allow you to "jump start" yourself under normal driving conditions if you need it

there are even more possibilities beyond that, but separate/parallel is the primary distinction, and the most important for option A is that your batteries are identical and in comparable health
Sounds like option A is the way to go. Massive capacity sounds perfect for what I need, and if for some reason I manage to kill the whole system flat (which is probably quite unlikely), I have one of those heavy-duty lithium jump packs that'll crank a completely dead 4.6 no problemo. I likely won't go more than a day, maybe two without starting it and driving it for a while to move spots, continue on a route, or explore around the area, so two fully charged batteries should work well, especially since I'm not drawing huge amounts of power (basically just charging a laptop, phone, running some lights, and running the sink pump every once in a while. Maybe the radio sometimes too).
It's probably also a solid idea to get a higher-output alternator to charge that whole system better. Any recommendations for that? I think my factory one is on its way out anyway - turning on the wipers or aux fan makes the lights dim for a half second or so at idle, and the voltage dips from ~14v down to ~12.5v before coming back up to ~14 - 14.5v.

Dual battery setups are not reliable for caravaning, if you want to be well covered with electricity something like this is the solution PureWave DG-1500w Digital Inverter Generator – Purewave Generators off course that there is a huge variety of them depends on how much you want to spend
This is true. I'm usually not too far off grid, and I don't think I really have the storage space for something like that. I thought about investing in a set of solar panels that runs a trickle charger for the car batteries though, but the odd roof structure shape of these trucks (step up, plus dual sunroofs) means there really isn't anywhere to mount them. Maybe a temporary setup with foldable panels that I can hook to the batteries? Not sure if something like that is even worth the effort and (especially) the cost. I think I'll just be super cautious about checking voltages and keep a nice jump pack on me just in case. Everything I have seems to work fine off just the one battery I have in it right now, but I have only tested it for 6 hours or so of continuous peak-usage operation. Still, two batteries should work well I think. As I said, I'm only going to be using the system with the engine off for maybe a day, and then starting the truck and continuing on my way with the engine running for a good portion of the next day. If this doesn't turn out to be the case, I'll look into something like your suggestion.
 

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fery isn't far off, a generator is really the best bet for "posting up" and running lots of gear. most of my junk is "running gear" and I've also got this little tacklife jump box that's about the size of a lunchable (yeah I have kids), and it'll start all three of my rovers in a row and still be at 75%
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
fery isn't far off, a generator is really the best bet for "posting up" and running lots of gear. most of my junk is "running gear" and I've also got this little tacklife jump box that's about the size of a lunchable (yeah I have kids), and it'll start all three of my rovers in a row and still be at 75%
Honestly, a generator would be my best bet, but since I like living life dangerously, I think I'll take my chances (for now at least, while I'm still relatively young and stupid lol). Also, what exact jump pack do you have? I thought mine was good, but what you have blows mine out of the water. Mine might start my D2 2-3 times before dying off. I'll have to pick one of those up.
 

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this thing:

my brother gave it to me for Christmas a year or two ago... the name made me think of cheap Chinese stuff, and I put it in the garage. one day my RRC was dead and my big old dewalt wasn't doing it, so I figured "hey I'll give it a whirl" and dusted it off. after sitting for six months or so, it still said 100% and it fired up my RRC instantly, and reported back in the 90s afterward.

it's small, it'll charge all of my family's five iPhones when the power's out, and well it's just kind of my goto now
 
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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
this thing:

my brother gave it to me for Christmas a year or two ago... the name made me think of cheap Chinese stuff, and I put it in the garage. one day my RRC was dead and my big old dewalt wasn't doing it, so I figured "hey I'll give it a whirl" and dusted it off. after sitting for six months or so, it still said 100% and it fired up my RRC instantly, and reported back in the 90s afterward.

it's small, it'll charge all of my family's five iPhones when the power's out, and well it's just kind of my goto now
Nice! It's not even that expensive for what it is. I'll have to pick one up. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Update - I have outfitted the kitchen with specific storage for cutlery, utensils, plates, and a cooking pan, as well as a spot for a fire extinguisher and extra knives. I’ve even added some strap to keep the utensils from rattling against the bottom of the shelf. I think it came out nicely, and adds to the functionality of the cabinets. It doesn’t even take up much space. Pictures:
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I ran out of orange strap, so orange rubber bands will have to do for now for the non-stick pan utensil storage. I’ll probably use the rest of the top cabinet to load up with food when I go out camping.
 

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Hahaha. That’s cool. I had a Rubbermaid tub that I rummaged through for cookware and cutlery.
 
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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Another update. I figured out how to cover all of the factory wiring in a way that looks good but is also easily removable in case I need to access the wiring for any reason to replace a radio receiver or something. I hung up some scrap headliner with some high power magnets, which look good and work well, even with the windows and sunroofs open at 80 mph.
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You gonna rent that out? I can’t tell if it belongs on turo or vrbo!
 
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