Land Rover and Range Rover Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought my first Range Rover and drove it home 3 1/2 hours no problem. Light blue in color with a brush gard and roof rack. 3.9L engine V8 but I'm sure y'all know all the specs. I am in South Carolina and the rover does not seem to have much if any rust. Paid 1800 but it has 239k. It's not perfect but so far it drives great.

My new Range Rover!

I have a couple of questions though to see if anyone has any idea what these problems are. When I accelerate quickly and it seems turn to the left while accelerating I hear a high pitched squeal. At first I thought it was the tires losing traction but I do not think that is it. It does not sound like a belt to me but I certainly could be wrong. I havent noticed the sound when accelerating straight or right... only left so far but I might have missed it other times.

My second concern is a low pitched humming sound I hear when driving about 35. As long as I stay at this speed I hear it but faster or slower I do not. I think the guy I bought it from mentioned this humming and said someone told him it was the lubricant he used on the differential? Not positive where they said it was but they told him that a thicker lubricant would solve this problem. Any thoughts?

Other than that the ac does not blow cold, but the compressor seems to be running. It only blows on the highest speed though. Not too big of a deal.

So far I love my new rangie and I would love any information on how to keep it in tune and running smooth. Any other good sites around that tell how to maintain a rover? Any good books or cdroms? Thanks for taking your time to read and I appreciate any response!
 

·
I'd love to be in the Rat Patrol
Joined
·
3,205 Posts
The accellerate pull to the left is likely a bad set of bushings. It might also be a broken motor mount.

The motor mount sounds bad but is a cheap fix. Wouldn't hurt to crawl under and look at them.

Bushings are afew hundred plus labor unless you are so inclined to install them yourself.

The squeel could be a belt. But if someone said change differential oil that is an easy project. You'll need two quarts per axle. I'd do this anyway, its a maintenance thing and its probably needs done anyway.


Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Let me clarify about the high pitched squeeling (sounds almost as if tires spinning). It does not pull the the left at all. It only squeels when I accelerate speedily while turning to the left. There is nothing obviously broken underneath.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
matthewk121 said:
Any good books or cdroms? Thanks for taking your time to read and I appreciate any response!
Hi MAtthew,

Congrats on the Rangie hope you have alot of fun with it. As Okie said change the oils always a good idea regardless what the previous owner had told you. Many places to drain and refill ie engine, transfer case both diffs and swivel housings. Has the auto been serviced recently? Basiclly when I buy a new car, truck whatever...I dump all fluids and replace them so I have a good refernce point as to thier condition. Same applies to things like radiator hoses , sparkplug leads, belts, etc. The local Auto Parts store must love me when I buy a new toy.

The AC may need regassing, get your local work shop to give it the once over while its there make sure nothing is leaking.

As for books, well all the usual like the Haynes Range Rover Manual will help. One thing I also like using is the RAVE cd. Its basicly the land rover work shop manual on CD. Make sure you get the one for the Classic though.

One thing I have learnt owning a Rover, you will save yourself some bucks if your prepared to do some of the work yourself. I dont know what its like in the States, but here in Oz most Mechanics see a RR the charge accordingly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Congrats on the Classic, I have owned several over the years and enjoy them.

I would check the CV joints, it could be they need lubrication. You can test by driving in a circle, left and then right. If you hear a grinding sound they could be bad. Some people use grease in the joint since 90 weight leaks out when seals get brittle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
congrats. now step back, have a plan..

Matt,

I am so glad you did not get mine... looks like you got a much better starting point than mine too.. I am keepin her if you did not see..

All I have to say for you is begin with the end in mind here. What do you want to use your rover for?

First your questions..

1. tire squeal while turning left, I would start with out of alignment.. how are those tires? pics of wear?
2. that hum...could be many things.. but start with real good diff oil (lucas or redline or royal purple). Post after you did that.
3. ac recharge (do the r138 conversion)

Now..

ebay and these message boards are your friend..

That sounds about the mileage when I got mine. Read read read before you start launching into buying stuff , ripping stuff apart or try to make you rover "cool". You would be surprised how many better, proven, better than OEM solutions out there (for less money).. read, think.. make a plan.. then work your plan and finish what you start before you do another project (or you will end up like me).

First step.. paperwork. See what the "history" is. Carfax, repairs, maintenance , lack of maintenance... ask the previous owner.

Now think safety first.. and history of the rover classic..

Fire up a nice little excel spreadsheet with tabs (body, drivetrain, interior, suspension, ac/heating) Put in the items that will need to be checked and reviewed first.

Like others said here... fluids.. and not just the motor oil.. every oil, lube point, coolant(watter wetter/prestone/distilled water), everything. lube those driveshafts, calipers, steering, etc. If you do the tranny.. make sure you take your time and get that torque converter filled right and change every filter too..

Now steering and brakes.. how are those. pics? pics? pics? Fuel line? The streering rack and brakes are something to not mess with.

Rust..you said there is not much.. door sills? under the rug of the brake pedal? under the rear lower tailgate? get under there.. hit that stuff with a grinding wheel.. por15 it, then maybe 3m rubberized undercoat. if you are in SC and on the coast.. salt will do a number.

Every bolt you replace... replace with stainless. www.boltdepot.com

Good luck, take pics.. post often.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The tires are almost new. The seem to be aligned properly. They do not squeel, I said it sounds like a squeel. After driving it more and hearing the high pitched squeel it kind of sounds like a belt slipping. It does it also when I am parked on a hill and reverse out of it such as in my driveway. How can I determine what the sqeeling is? I have never worked on a car before as this is my first (I'm 19). Money of course is a problem so things like the ac will just have to wait. I want to make sure it runs well though and I certainly want to take care of it. I have never changed all the lubrications before but as I learn more I hope to. Are their any step by step guides to changing the differential fluid/cv joint etc? Thanks for everyone's response by the way!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
squealing...

ok. this only happens when you "rev" the engine and turn left while accelerating?
this does not happen when you are standing still and rev the engine (with say, the lights and a/c on).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Matthew.

Welcome to the world of the Classics and congratulations with your "chariot," great condition, pretty unbelievable for the miles, aren't those Classics great ??.

Have fun with it and take good care of it, it will reward you for it.

Andre
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,506 Posts
matthewk121 said:
The tires are almost new. The seem to be aligned properly. They do not squeel, I said it sounds like a squeel. After driving it more and hearing the high pitched squeel it kind of sounds like a belt slipping. It does it also when I am parked on a hill and reverse out of it such as in my driveway. How can I determine what the sqeeling is? I have never worked on a car before as this is my first (I'm 19). Money of course is a problem so things like the ac will just have to wait. I want to make sure it runs well though and I certainly want to take care of it. I have never changed all the lubrications before but as I learn more I hope to. Are their any step by step guides to changing the differential fluid/cv joint etc? Thanks for everyone's response by the way!
Changing the diff fluid is easy, just remove the drain plug from the bottom of the diff and drain old fluid (check for metal shavings on drain plug). Once drained put plug back in and remove fill plug (top). Fill with new diff fluid.

CV housing fluid is basically the same except that there are three plugs. If you plan on doing some water crossings or playing in water I would not recommend using the grease, stick with heavy weight diff fluid.

Good luck and enjoy!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Frist of all, thanks for all the replies. Your warm welcome is felt! Secondly, again addressing the squeeling problem. It isn't only when I am turning. It seems to happen randomly, but always when I gun the engine. If I start off slow it does not happen. I have been told it sounds like a belt from more than one person, but the belts all seem new and are tight. The only other thing I know of that could be related would be the fact that the battery light on the ignition comes on sometimes. A quick Autozone check concluded that the battery and the alternator were alright, but could it be that the alternator belt is slipping? Any signs to look at for this? Any help will be appreciated!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,304 Posts
Matthew... :shifty: the only reason you got suck a warm welcome is because yesterday is the day that most of us take our medication. :buttrock: Strap on the seatbelt and beware............ :D
Since I am also well sedated......it does look like a sweet ride for such miles, I hope you enjoy her. :drink1:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So the squeeling actually ended up only being the alternator belt. I tightened it (after breaking a bolt and replacing that), and was able to solve that squeeling.

So I also now feel the onset of the british electrical problems. Rear right window no longer functions (smoke coming from the rear switch). I'm guessing a poor contact, but have yet to take apart and look at. Rear left window went out too but a fuse replacement fixed that.

Driver's seat will no longer move forward or tilt back. The backrest tilts back and seat will move back and tilt forward though. Any idea's? I'm thinking it is the switch so I will have to research how to clean or replace.

Anybody know the best way to get one of those rave CD's with the shop manual on it? It would help a lot so I wouldn't have to figure out how to take everything apart and possibly break more things :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well i cleaned the switch. The inside is pretty interesting once you take it apart (8 springs, 16 ball bearings, and such). Funny thing happened when I put it back together and tried it again. The seat would still not move forward, but the seat would tilt back and not forward. Before the seat would tilt forward but not back... so I have no idea what that means. I took it apart again and same thing happened. So I have a drivers chair that can only move in 4 of the 6 directions. I'm probably going to take the seat out and check out the motor, but as I've never done this before I won't really know what to look for. Any tips? Do these motors fail in a couple directions but still work in others or would all the directions stop if the motor was out? Any help would be appreciated!
 

·
I'd love to be in the Rat Patrol
Joined
·
3,205 Posts
I would want to see if the another switch fixed the problem. I know sometimes those switches can be really persnickety. Make sure the contacts are good and clean. I had trouble on my buddies switch and it turned out to be really bad connections. There was carbon build up on it from years of use.

Good luck. If the motors pass a continuty test meaning they work it's got to be the switch.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top