[CT090]

'04 D-11, disassembling to do the head gaskets.

After removing the small parts and pulling the intake, one of these pieces was found lying on top of the valley pan. Another was on the shop floor, towards the rear of the engine. They are 8.97mm OD X 4.85 tall.

They are clean and shiny on the outside, with a slightly gold coloring. Inside has a mild residue.

I thought they might be alignment dowels, but I'm not seeing where they might go.


Thanks!

 

[15mpg]

Those are the metal spacers that are located in the valve cover gasket bolt holes. They prohibit the gasket from being overly compressed.
If they are from the replaced gaskets - not a problem.
If they fell from the new gaskets, well .........

 

[CT090]

Fortunately just now coming apart. First Rover for me.

Thanks!

 

[Chubbs878]

Fortunately just now coming apart. First Rover for me.

Thanks!

hopefully you plan to update all of the cooling system parts as its going back together. Need a heavy duty fan clutch, cap and reservoir (at least new cap), upper and lower hose assemblies, water pump, (and oil pump if you don't mind going into the front cover...great piece of mind for $100), and 180 degree thermostat if not a complete remodification to an inline thermostat setup. If you can get a good deal on a radiator, I would replace it as well. The reason your head gaskets failed is due to operating temps consistently higher than 210 degrees. You will be back in the same place next year if you don't replace all of this stuff. It's common practice. As a matter of fact, you need to do a leak-down on the block itself to see if any cylinder liners have seperated. If you miss this little tidbit, you will get it all buttoned-up only to find that the engine is still over-heating and losing coolant, if this was the original symptom. I can only guess, as most wouldn't replace head gaskets on this beast just for the hell of it. send the valve stem seals along with the cylinder heads to a machine shop for a simple planing, not taking off any more material than necessary as there isn't much extra to begin with. This is all mandatory and part of the process. You will want to order 2 new genuine parts to replace the lines between the overflow tank. Get a throttle heater kit too since you have the TB removed already. If it's not leaking coolant now, it will. I hope your top end rebuild goes well. Don't half-ass it and you will be a happy camper, I assure you. Take any shortcuts and you will be extremely disappointed and pissing money away.

 

[Chubbs878]

Fortunately just now coming apart. First Rover for me.

Thanks!

Factory temperature gauge is not accurate at all, so you want to invest in an aftermarket setup for monitoring this and oil pressure, if you haven't done so already. Take both driveshafts off and inspect them closely for Ujoint wear and range of motion. It is always advised to replace the front unit immediately if you find that the Ujoints located in the cardan are not the greasable style. Greasing them with every oil change is good practice. Really bad things happen when the front DS fails at the cardan right next to your transmission housing.

 

[Neo1975]

I am using an OBDlink LX to monitor temperature. I haven't been using it long, so I am not sure what all you can monitor with it. I am still using the pre-set dashboard on the program, but I would suggest checking it out.

 

[CT090]

hopefully you plan to update all of the cooling system parts as its going back together. Need a heavy duty fan clutch, cap and reservoir (at least new cap), upper and lower hose assemblies, water pump, (and oil pump if you don't mind going into the front cover...great piece of mind for $100), and 180 degree thermostat if not a complete remodification to an inline thermostat setup. If you can get a good deal on a radiator, I would replace it as well. The reason your head gaskets failed is due to operating temps consistently higher than 210 degrees. You will be back in the same place next year if you don't replace all of this stuff. It's common practice. As a matter of fact, you need to do a leak-down on the block itself to see if any cylinder liners have seperated. If you miss this little tidbit, you will get it all buttoned-up only to find that the engine is still over-heating and losing coolant, if this was the original symptom. I can only guess, as most wouldn't replace head gaskets on this beast just for the hell of it. send the valve stem seals along with the cylinder heads to a machine shop for a simple planing, not taking off any more material than necessary as there isn't much extra to begin with. This is all mandatory and part of the process. You will want to order 2 new genuine parts to replace the lines between the overflow tank. Get a throttle heater kit too since you have the TB removed already. If it's not leaking coolant now, it will. I hope your top end rebuild goes well. Don't half-ass it and you will be a happy camper, I assure you. Take any shortcuts and you will be extremely disappointed and pissing money away.

Yeah- did alot of research and came up with exactly what you suggested. My first move was to order a huge list of parts.

The people that owned this truck bought it new and maintained it with an open checkbook. I have a 3" thick file of receipts from the dealer and a rover specialty shop. Fortunately they did many of the things on the list, such as a new rad with the head, as well as a water pump. They already did the driveshaft upgrades as well. All the hoses look new, but I'm replacing them anyway.

This thing had a head gasket done in the recent past. When I got it, it was leaking on the driver's side. Taking it apart, one of the bolts had zero torque. Turns out it was snapped off at the deck. Not entirely sure why it failed, but I have some theories. Interestingly enough, it was holding 15PSI in the cooling system, so I doubt it was an overheat. Although, a stuck Tstat is always a possibility.