Land Rover and Range Rover Forum banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tried to research this problem and not really getting anywhere so wanted to get a few diagnosis ideas or what I should be looking for.

Within the past week I have noticed my LR Disco II shaking/rattling upon acceleration. Anything over 30mph....i accelerate and I feel the steering shake/rattle.

I have maintained the Disco II very well, fixed head gasket, oil pan gasket, new spark plus with new 8mm wires. Everything has been perfect up to this point, been running well until this week.

Any ideas of what this could be? Reading driveshaft, hood stands, u joints....are these all valid things to look at or anyone have other suggestions on what I should be looking at?

Any help would be appreciated as I don't want this to get worse, rather fix it now.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Tried to research this problem and not really getting anywhere so wanted to get a few diagnosis ideas or what I should be looking for.

Within the past week I have noticed my LR Disco II shaking/rattling upon acceleration. Anything over 30mph....i accelerate and I feel the steering shake/rattle.

I have maintained the Disco II very well, fixed head gasket, oil pan gasket, new spark plus with new 8mm wires. Everything has been perfect up to this point, been running well until this week.

Any ideas of what this could be? Reading driveshaft, hood stands, u joints....are these all valid things to look at or anyone have other suggestions on what I should be looking at?

Any help would be appreciated as I don't want this to get worse, rather fix it now.

Thanks
Does it get worse with higher speed? Worse turning or going straight?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,166 Posts
I would be looking at motor/trans mounts as well. They're not plastic, but could be broken. Usually the rubber is separated from the steel. You can take a bottle jack and raise the engine to inspect them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah it rattles a little more at higher speeds....i might be jumping the gun with U joints and driveshaft because its a common issue. Should I maybe start with an allignment? Probably wouldn't hurt to get one

If after the allignment I still feel it then looking into other scenarios?

Only thing is doesn't really shake/rattle when I take foot off accelerator so idk...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
The front drive shaft would be my first concern. It has the possibility of sudden failure with severe consequences to the vehicle.
The other concerns may be safe until they get more obvious, and easy to diagnose.
Because you seem to notice the problem in the steering, it seems a stretch, but take a close look at the flex coupling at the rear differential.
Alignment is probably not a factor.
As always, good luck, and please post your solution when resolved.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think it is going to be the U Joint, my buddy who is a mechanic was thinking torque converter in the beginning but then changed his opinion because usually the torque converter will stop after higher speeds 60 mph, the rattle becomes worse at 55+, 60, 65, 70 mph...its constant upon acceleration.

I am not driving it at the moment until I can take it apart. There is no real way of diagnosing it unless you take the thing apart right? Any suggestion when I take it apart? If I feel that its not moving freely I was gonna grease it up. It not a massive rattle just to be clear, but its enough where I can feel something isn't right when driving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The front drive shaft would be my first concern. It has the possibility of sudden failure with severe consequences to the vehicle.
The other concerns may be safe until they get more obvious, and easy to diagnose.
Because you seem to notice the problem in the steering, it seems a stretch, but take a close look at the flex coupling at the rear differential.
Alignment is probably not a factor.
As always, good luck, and please post your solution when resolved.
thanks...always something, was good for about 6 months until this came up. i will look into flex coupling at the rear differential.

is it best to just buy a new driveshaft at this point? i am leaning towards that and the U joint in particular
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
thanks...always something, was good for about 6 months until this came up. i will look into flex coupling at the rear differential.

is it best to just buy a new driveshaft at this point? i am leaning towards that and the U joint in particular
Sometimes the most common problem is the problem !
These front drive shafts are prone to fail based upon the experience of others.
Often they fail without much warning.

The symptoms you describe sure sound like a front shaft that has lost its balance due to component failure.

Sometimes you can feel some play or uneven motion if you can get your hands on the shaft. You can get somewhat of a sense with the truck safely supported, the front wheels are off the ground and the transfer case in neutral - then rotating the shaft by hand to get a feel.
This method will show if there is a real significant failure, but is not a good enough test for early failure.

Replacing a shaft that is in question is prudent.

Though they can be rebuilt and parts are available - A search on this site will give up multiple vendors that sell better than original replacement shafts for just a bit more than the parts to rebuild your original.

The original shaft is devoid of grease fittings for the universal joints.
If your u-joints in the front shaft are without grease fittings - it is likely original.

If so - time for new anyway !
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
2,423 Posts
I have never experienced a torque converter related vibration anything like what you have described and alignment will NOT cause vibration although worn/ loose parts will.
Add another vote to replace the front shaft.
Money well spent
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
To the OP,

You did not specify the model year of your Disco. It would be useful.

You also mentioned the rattle comes on at 30 mph. Does it also go away at a higher speed range above 30 mph? The nature of when the vibration appears and goes away (if any) can help point to more specific diagnosis.

If you have CDL.... you can remove the front drive shaft, lock the CDL and then drive the truck. See if the vibration is gone.

If you do not have CDL, you can still remove the drive shafts and inspect them. Rotate the u-joints to see if you feel any "crunchiness" in the spider joints, cups and needle bearings.

You mentioned torque converter. There is an inspection cover at the bottom of the flywheel housing. You can peek through the inspection cover. Run the engine and idle. Peek through the inspection hole to see if you can spot an issue with the flex plate or the flywheel.

The motor mounts and transmission mounts were already mentioned above.

Good luck!
 

·
Straight Up Climb
Joined
·
22 Posts
I recently worked on a Disco 1 that had a similar issue. It would begin to shake at about 40 and wouldn't stop until we were almost completely stopped. It was a bad steering dampener. It was an easy fix once we found the actual problem. Unfortunately, we replaced the Drive shaft, Mounts and Ball Joints first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
To the OP,

You did not specify the model year of your Disco. It would be useful.

You also mentioned the rattle comes on at 30 mph. Does it also go away at a higher speed range above 30 mph?
Its a 2001 Disco II with 94k miles sorry for not adding that. Rattle comes on at 30mph as accelerator is applied...its only when accelerating. When I let go of the gas I don't feel the rattle/shake. 30 mph is when I first feel it, then at 40 it gets a little worse...50+ feeling it more. Drove it up to 80mph and still felt the rattle shake...only when applying the gas. I don't feel it when I take my foot off the gas.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I recently worked on a Disco 1 that had a similar issue. It would begin to shake at about 40 and wouldn't stop until we were almost completely stopped. It was a bad steering dampener. It was an easy fix once we found the actual problem. Unfortunately, we replaced the Drive shaft, Mounts and Ball Joints first.
I can look into that as well...the rattle/shake goes away when I let off the gas. even when I am at 40-50mph or any speed over 30+ mph.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have never experienced a torque converter related vibration anything like what you have described and alignment will NOT cause vibration although worn/ loose parts will.
Add another vote to replace the front shaft.
Money well spent
starting to lean towards just replacing the entire driveshaft. i saw one on BP utah thats $300, then a bunch on ebay. any recommendations?

thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
To the OP,

If you have CDL.... you can remove the front drive shaft, lock the CDL and then drive the truck. See if the vibration is gone.

If you do not have CDL, you can still remove the drive shafts and inspect them. Rotate the u-joints to see if you feel any "crunchiness" in the spider joints, cups and needle bearings.
this is exactly what I am going to check for tomorrow...not sure if I have a CDL...what is CDL exactly? maybe someone knows that can help? its a 2001 disco II

any advice on removing the front driveshaft?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,166 Posts
I recently worked on a Disco 1 that had a similar issue. It would begin to shake at about 40 and wouldn't stop until we were almost completely stopped. It was a bad steering dampener. It was an easy fix once we found the actual problem. Unfortunately, we replaced the Drive shaft, Mounts and Ball Joints first.
You are mistaken. A bad steering damper will NOT cause a vibration. It was most likely caused by one of the other components you already replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
alright so CDL...center differential lock. did some youtube watching...never used it so its all new to me. i have always had the truck in normal high

after removing the front driveshaft...using the CDL...i will lock it by putting car into neutral, then pushing CDL all the way to the left. should i lock it in Low or High? if i go all the way to the left and up its low, all the way to the left and down is high.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,166 Posts
You probably saw videos for the D1. The D2 does not have a CDL shifter, stock. You'll have to get under your truck to see if your transmission even has the CDL "nipple". If so, you can engage it manually or retrofit a D1 shifter or one from a '04.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top