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239 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have had Three Amigo problem for a while starting with front right ABS sensor.

I replaced the sensor with stock didn't solve the problem. Did the ABS Modulator option B, replaced the ABS sensor with long type and connected to SLABS ECU. Problem had gone away. But the darn Amigos came back. If I clear it now the lights come back after a week again with the following code. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks


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..--Previous Faults--->
Active Faults:
None
Logged Faults:
016:Shuttle valve long term fail
<-END Faults
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* *
------------------------------------------------------------
..--Previous Faults--->
Active Faults:
None
Logged Faults:
016:Shuttle valve long term fail
<-END Faults
------------------------------------------------------------
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And I didn't even submit a proposal...
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202 Posts
On our Disco, there was a large piece of rust wedged in between the shield and the hub on the left rear wheel, right in front of the sensor. It did not interfere with the sensor unless I hit a bump on the road and then I would get the three amigos. I guess when it moved it messed with the signal of the sensor. Anyway once I cleaned and oiled the shields on the four wheels I was rid of the dreaded amigos once and for all. Maybe worth looking into.
 

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'03 Disco SE
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573 Posts
Did you replace the shuttle valve seals when you were doing the "Option B" fix? Were the two switch wires degraded or brittle in any way? Did you replace them?

Doing the "Option B" fix without replacing the valve seals doesn't fix the problem permanently. The cause of the problem is that highly caustic brake fluid seeps past the shuttle valve seals and into the switch area and damages the wiring. These modulators use very small voltages to operate so even the slightest damage to a wire is enough to trip the 3A's. You need to replace the bad shuttle valve seals with the Falconworks kit and replace any of the wires that are damaged.

If you already replaced the seals and wires then you may have a bad shuttle valve switch. It's not terribly common for them to fail but it's not unheard of either. Luckily a new part is relatively inexpensive.

ABS Modulator Shuttle Valve Switch (Part # SWO500030) - Land Rover hydraulics from Atlantic British
 

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239 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Tomorrow I am going to go through all the wheels and clean shield taking Lowest Bidder's advice.

I almost stripped brake line bolts last time on the Shuttle Valve. I don't know if I want to mess around with that again. But If I have to then may be get another shuttle Valve and do the big fix once for all.

Appreciated your response.
 

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112 Posts
Option A is not required if you did B. There is no added benefit. If mine, I would pull the shuttle valves out and verify the continuity. Procedure is in the How-to-guide (Press each switch and verify the ohms reading). If they check bad replace them (You will still have to do option B to the new ones). Verify if the wires look green or brittle. As you check the ohms twist the wires around to see if the value changes. It should remain constant. Also solder all the connections. If the ECU sees any break in continuity through the circuit it will throw the 3A's and register the 016: Shuttle valve long term fail code. You need solid connections.
The only way the 016 code throws is if the circuit ohms are incorrect. Whether circuit is open, shorted or incorrect ohms value through switches you have one of these conditions. Post up pictures for inspection if you want them verified.
Also it has been my experience when the shuttle valves go bad you will see phantom codes registered also. An example would be, having multiple shuttle valve codes and phantom wheel sensor codes. Always start with the shuttle valve fix. Numerous times I have seen this and after repairing the shuttle valves I’ve never had to replace a wheel sensor.
 

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Mr. t
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561 Posts
Belew is right in all that he said. Doing option "A" and the option "B" fix is not necessary and there is absolutely no added advantage of doing "A" after you've done "B". I was absent from this forum for a year or so and was surprised when i came back to see that it was still being suggested. With the "B" fix you've bypassed, with trailer harness, all of the circuitry repaired on "A".

Your bolts should be easy to get out this time since you've already broken the thread lock loose.

Please do the seals if you haven't already. Lazy man works twice.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
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