Land Rover and Range Rover Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I just bought an LR3 about 3 weeks ago and I love it, however it does seem to have some issues to sort out. Here is the rough rundown, 2006 LR3 SE V8 90k miles, HD package, cold weather package, Nav, hidden 9k warn winch. Now for the bits I need help with: Suspension seems to be settling after just a couple hours, after reading a lot it seems like it could be the valve block but maybe that is just a hopeful guess. Next thing is that the Compressor seems to run for quite a while, maybe 3 minutes, after startup. Have read about driers and wonder if that is a possibility or if my compressor is just getting tired. Suspension seems to raise and lower fine, raising is sometimes a bit slow but hard to say. I appreciate any input or troubleshooting suggestions.

Thanks,
Simeon
 

·
Super Trooper
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Welcome.

Suspension settling is the result of a leak somewhere. It could be in a line, the valve block, or an air shock. Not fixing this could burn up your compressor.

The compressor running for a while could be because you have a leak somewhere, or it could just be getting tired (or a combination of both).

Your suspension being slow to raise is probably a result of the leak. The compressor fills a tank that holds the air for when it is needed. I could get 2 - 3 suspension raises before the compressor had to kick on. Those raises were pretty quick. When the compressor was running, they were noticeably slower.


Colin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Any tips for leak hunting, I pulled fuse 26? (EAS fuse) tonight to see how it settles by morning, it seemed like the front was settling more than the rear before. Are there other common places to check for leaks? Is there any way to check the valves other than just replacing them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
After removing the fuse last night, the front left dropped the most, almost 3", and the left rear dropped by almost 2", the front right dropped about 1.5", and the rear right dropped by about an inch.

After Sitting overnight:


Normal Ride Height:


Sound like a bad shock rather than a valve? Would the settle at the same rate if it was a valve or is that still a possibilty?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Im not sure if its shock or valve block, but just keep in mind that if you let all the air out of one corner the other three are still going to sink a little too. I would suspect that its about what your describe.

I have the same problem, same corner too - especially with it is <20 degrees outside. Mine is an 06 with 96k miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Im not sure if its shock or valve block, but just keep in mind that if you let all the air out of one corner the other three are still going to sink a little too. I would suspect that its about what your describe.

I have the same problem, same corner too - especially with it is <20 degrees outside. Mine is an 06 with 96k miles.
I was suspecting this also, I am just trying to figure out how to proceed. Do I try a valve block first or do I replace front shocks? $150 vs $700?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
I was suspecting this also, I am just trying to figure out how to proceed. Do I try a valve block first or do I replace front shocks? $150 vs $700?
Mine would drop in the front overnight. Rather than buying a new valve block, I removed my front valve block, disassembled and cleaned the seals and sealing surfaces. Reassembled and reinstalled now no more front end drop! Overtime the desiccant dissolves and fouls the valves.
It might be worth while to clean yours before dropping $$$.

I also replaced my air dryer and replace seals and springs in the air compressor.
Got everything for about $95. The air compressor now only runs for about 30-40 seconds once a day.

Hope this helps. Also, use jack stands when doing any work under the LR3!!!
Look up where the jack points are on the frame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Cnfowler - I have watched a couple of the RSW Solutions videos, I am also considering buying his diag tool.

DefenderTech - Sounds like it might be worth a try to clean the valve block. Did you notice a difference right away after cleaning the valves? How difficult is the compressor rebuild? Thanks for the tip on the jack stands, I wouldn't want to climb under there with out them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Cnfowler - I have watched a couple of the RSW Solutions videos, I am also considering buying his diag tool.

DefenderTech - Sounds like it might be worth a try to clean the valve block. Did you notice a difference right away after cleaning the valves? How difficult is the compressor rebuild? Thanks for the tip on the jack stands, I wouldn't want to climb under there with out them.
I noticed a difference immediately after cleaning the valve block. It took about an hour to do.
The air dryer and seal replacement is very easy. No need for depressurization.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hi there,
I just bought my wife a 2006 LR3 a couple months ago, just couple days ago we notice that we cant make the suspension go on access mode!!! It will go up on off road mode but it will not drop back down.
I try all the fuses and they all are fine!! I program the remote to drop the suspension to access mode and it works!! Im wondering if the switch is bad???

Any suggestions???

Thanks.
Rodolfo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Where did you find the seal and springs for the compressor?
I ordered the following from Genuine Land Rover Parts Online at Discount

YWB500220 electrical, fuse & relay, 70 amp 1
JPO500010 KIT - COMPRESSOR 1
VUB504700 -air dryer

Here is a link to the compressor rebuild:

http://www.rrsport.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10097/SB034_SB036 Vehicle Enhancement Program.pdf

Also, the air line going from the valve block to the air springs are under HIGH pressure. Be very careful. Luck up RSW Solutions on YouTube. He has a Front air spring install video which includes the front valve block depressurization.

Best of luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I ordered the following from Genuine Land Rover Parts Online at Discount

YWB500220 electrical, fuse & relay, 70 amp 1
JPO500010 KIT - COMPRESSOR 1
VUB504700 -air dryer

Here is a link to the compressor rebuild:

http://www.rrsport.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10097/SB034_SB036 Vehicle Enhancement Program.pdf

Also, the air line going from the valve block to the air springs are under HIGH pressure. Be very careful. Luck up RSW Solutions on YouTube. He has a Front air spring install video which includes the front valve block depressurization.

Best of luck!
Thanks, I have watched several of RSW's videos including that one. Thanks for the links and part numbers, hopefully this week I will get time to clean up the valve block. If that is successful, then maybe I will attack the compressor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
525 Posts
2005-2009

RAE 500010 - 1 needed for each strut.

* Grease the plastic and rubber O-rings with synthetic lubricating grease (e.g.
Klüber Polylub GLY801

If you remove the air bags, you would need new metal bands that secure it. My shop just used a stock banding tool and material to reband it. They also cleaned, inspected and treated the actual air bags with silicon treatment.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top