Land Rover and Range Rover Forum banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good Morning Everyone,

I am about to buy a 1999 DiscoII with the 4.6L V8.
Here are the details as i know so far:

Automatic
approx 225000km on it
tan leather interior
blue exterior
factory original aluminum rims
new windsheild
new front drive shaft



Only issues that were noted to me is a light ticking noise (from what i have quickly researched this can be a multitude of things ranging from minor to major repair)

The seat heaters do not work but i suspect a fuse because all other electrics work

Also it was mentioned that it occasionaly needs a top up of coolant however there is none of the cream you occasionaly can find on your dipstick or oil cap when it is alot entering your engine. Also there is no exessive amount of smoke

This will be coming from someone I know so i trust they are not leaving out information and this is all that they know.

So normally any type of engine noise would ward me away from any vehicle purchase however this will be at a disposable price of 500-1000$ (TBD)

With the price in mind could you fine folks tell me if this is something i should act on or walk away from?

Also when i go to inspect it what are some good tips and pointers as to what I should be looking for.

I am very interested in this vehicle, especially at the price. I feel like it would be pretty easy to walk away from if the engine decided to implode.

But please let me know what to look for or if i should just not bother Thanks in advance Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,166 Posts
Good Morning Everyone,

I am about to buy a 1999 DiscoII with the 4.6L V8.
Here are the details as i know so far:

Automatic
approx 225000km on it
tan leather interior
blue exterior
factory original aluminum rims
new windsheild
new front drive shaft



Only issues that were noted to me is a light ticking noise (from what i have quickly researched this can be a multitude of things ranging from minor to major repair)

The seat heaters do not work but i suspect a fuse because all other electrics work

Also it was mentioned that it occasionaly needs a top up of coolant however there is none of the cream you occasionaly can find on your dipstick or oil cap when it is alot entering your engine. Also there is no exessive amount of smoke

This will be coming from someone I know so i trust they are not leaving out information and this is all that they know.

So normally any type of engine noise would ward me away from any vehicle purchase however this will be at a disposable price of 500-1000$ (TBD)

With the price in mind could you fine folks tell me if this is something i should act on or walk away from?

Also when i go to inspect it what are some good tips and pointers as to what I should be looking for.

I am very interested in this vehicle, especially at the price. I feel like it would be pretty easy to walk away from if the engine decided to implode.

But please let me know what to look for or if i should just not bother Thanks in advance Cheers
If you REALLY want a D2, are willing to walk away from 500.00, and REALLY like to work on them, it may be worth it. Say no to any of those, and I would pass.
Also, if it really has a 4.6, that is a replacement motor. Stock is a 4.0.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
102 Posts
X2 on what Heli said. Make sure you get underneath it and see where any leaks are coming from (there have to be some) and since you're in Ontario, check that frame for rust while you're under there. It doesn't take much for corrosion to annihilate our frames. My truck was in the south most of its life, but spent 2 years in Massachusetts and accumulated plenty of rust just from that. I think there was a thread not very long ago about a guy whose truck wouldn't pass inspection because of the severity of his frame rot. Idk what the inspection process is like up there in Canada, however.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also thanks maximum warp, ill be sure to check the frame underside, i know the body will be good as it is alum. but I forgot the frame would be steel still.

I will update this weekend and try to take pictures.

Thanks guys any more tips and tricks are appreciated
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
102 Posts
Pretty sure the 4.6 didn't come around until '03-'04. That being the case, the ticking you're hearing could be a slipped liner, as it was a common problem on the later engines (primarily the '03s? I could be mistaken)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Pretty sure the 4.6 didn't come around until '03-'04. That being the case, the ticking you're hearing could be a slipped liner, as it was a common problem on the later engines (primarily the '03s? I could be mistaken)
Oh ok I didnt know that, well i will confirm which motor it has then thanks for the tip.

Would this be less un reliable if it has the 4.0? which is the "least worse" the 4.0 or the 4.6?
From what i gathered all these old buick blocks are troublesome some just more than others.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
102 Posts
They did all have some problems, but I think the 4.6 is the one that added the slipped liner/cracked block between cylinders 3 and 4 problem. I think by 2004 they had that problem sorted, however. '02-'03 were the worst years for that I believe, and the fracturing oil pump gear problem as well (there's a VIN range for the oil pump).

All of these are very searchable items on this forum, and I recommend you look them all up and start reading because I'm likely inaccurate, give or take a year, in my model year quotings. Just trying to come up with some stuff from memory.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hello everyone,

I just got back from checking out the disco2.

I learned that the truck has been sitting for about 6months so i think this will contribute to some issues. but here is what i found.

The battery was stone dead( obviously) so we threw a different battery in and started it up, the only issues here was with the different battery the leaded that comes off of the negative terminal and then bolts onto some type of terminal block could not be attached so this could cause some issues (if you know what this would be please tell me)

The engine ran roughly and a noticeable ticking noise was present. but not the worst by any means.

The oil pressure light as on, however when i checked the oil level it was perfect so i suspect either the pump is worn out or the sensor is broken ?

next i ran my obd2 scanner and found a whole slew of codes i reset them and came back with the following:

Stored:
P1300
P0308
P0304
P1319

Pending:
P0134
P0154

from what I gather the first three are all misfire related. (it was noted that plugs and wires were changed before it was parked six months ago but i suspect they could do with a replacement as their are only NGK so not the best)

The P1319 from what i found is some type of fuel issues, the tank was sitting right on Empty so this is maybe the cause ? or some blocked fuel passages from sitting for so long?

the two pending codes I gather to be some type of O2 sensor codes?

So apart from that I was able to drive up and down the street, nothing to crazy because there is no insurance so i didnt go past 50km/h.

The E brake worked and brakes as well, they cleaned the rusty rotors off swiftly (no gouging or grooves were noted , the rotors were very smooth).

I confirmed it has the 4.0L motor as well as it being the BOSCH not the GEMS (not sure if thats a worthy difference?)

Also the rust on the underside did not seem to severe anywhere that I looked, so this does not look concerning.

I did not notice any crazy leaks or puddles or stains on the driveway either. and as mentioned the oil and other fluids all seemed to be in order and not low.

What I am thinking is if i can take this away from a good price, I would probably do the oil pump or ??gears ?? and the O2 sensor and see what happens, perhaps throw some either cheapie plugs and wires on it, or go with some new Magnecores or Kingsborne??

I basically want to drive it out for the winter and park my golf tdi and afterward assess how it is running and what more major work would need to be done. If i want to do it, I will sell the Golf and proceeds will go to repairs, and if i dont want to I will either drive it into the earth or sell it and go back to driving the golf.

If anyone could please advise their Sage wisdom or opinion based on the information provided that would be great. and immensely appreciated. Also if you are ever in my neck of the woods a beverage would be in order.

All help is appreciated !
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
102 Posts
That oil pressure is very concerning, I wouldn't drive it until you fix that. It's a bit of a job getting to the gears (fan and all front components need to come off, then you drop the oil pan, then pull the front cover, which houses the oil pump) but it's not especially hard. Chasing the misfire is something else entirely...could be any number of issues. I'd say $500 is fair as long as you're willing to do the work, and you have a second vehicle to drive while this thing sits on jackstands waiting on parts. And you'll probably find like 5 other things that need/should be replaced while you're under that hood pulling stuff apart, so prepare for that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the comments maximumwarp my issues is from where i am buying it to where i can work on it is about 150kms.

Would you suggest perhaps changing the oil out to a lower viscosity when i go to move it, then once i get it to the shop i can pull the front cover off and drop the pan put a new pump kit in and then button it all back up with new oil of the proper viscosity?

I heard that when these trucks sit for awhile the oil pump can drain out and have issues re priming? would this be an ok plan or should i really not drive it at all until that pump is replaced? I just dont have anywhere closer that I could do it.

As for the misfires im hoping some fresh gas and maybe new spark plugs and wires could remedy that? or is that naive?

Right now im thinking ill have to replace:

spark plugs
spark plug wires
oil pressure switch (there cheap so why not?)
oil pump gears kit (seems to include everything)

this should run me about 4-500$ i think ?

well anyways let me know your thoughts and thanks alot for your help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,166 Posts
do you think its a total write off?
No offense, but it sounds like your trying to talk yourself into buying it. Been there, done that.
There's a saying that I first heard in boat ownership, that easily extends to LR's (especially D2's): "There's no such thing as a free/cheap boat".
Ignore my advice at your own peril.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
yea your pretty right hahahah, just really like the d2. I wish they would have made them with reliable motors.

Whats the average cost of a rebuild ? assuming you do the work yourself?
also what does your definition of a rebuild entail?

Thanks again for your comments
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,166 Posts
yea your pretty right hahahah, just really like the d2. I wish they would have made them with reliable motors.

Whats the average cost of a rebuild ? assuming you do the work yourself?
also what does your definition of a rebuild entail?

Thanks again for your comments
Except for the run of '03's with the oil pump issues, they are as reliable as the TLC you give them.
What people forget is that LR's were never designed to be maintained by the "shade tree" mechanic and were therefore engineered that way. They were a high end vehicle to be sold to the person who could afford to take them to the dealer for routine scheduled maint. They've trickled down to us now, but the maint. requirement has not changed a bit.
When most American cars "recommend" something be serviced or replaced, it usually means you can continue to drive it until it actually breaks and then replace it. Do that with a LR and your behind the 8-ball by about a mile. Money pit doesn't even begin to describe it.
Cost of a rebuild could run the gamut, depending on how far you get into it, and the damage you might find.
I don't know about the D2 prices in the great white north, but around here, a decent '99 with "normal" issues can be had for dirt cheap.
Keep Looking, you'll find one. Better driving one than working on one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Except for the run of '03's with the oil pump issues, they are as reliable as the TLC you give them.
What people forget is that LR's were never designed to be maintained by the "shade tree" mechanic and were therefore engineered that way. They were a high end vehicle to be sold to the person who could afford to take them to the dealer for routine scheduled maint. They've trickled down to us now, but the maint. requirement has not changed a bit.
When most American cars "recommend" something be serviced or replaced, it usually means you can continue to drive it until it actually breaks and then replace it. Do that with a LR and your behind the 8-ball by about a mile. Money pit doesn't even begin to describe it.
Cost of a rebuild could run the gamut, depending on how far you get into it, and the damage you might find.
I don't know about the D2 prices in the great white north, but around here, a decent '99 with "normal" issues can be had for dirt cheap.
Keep Looking, you'll find one. Better driving one than working on one.
Alright thanks for the info, there about 2000$ on the low end and 5-6k on the higher end at the moment at least.

Gotta give you credit a lot of other people on other forums (VWvortex, mercedes benz etc) would just say buy it its a (vw, merc etc) no matter what even if they new it wouldnt be a good idea they just have their brand held so high that it could never be considered detrimental.

So thanks for your honesty as well as knowledge in this matter. Probably would have turned into much more than i was willing to invest.

:drink1:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,166 Posts
Alright thanks for the info, there about 2000$ on the low end and 5-6k on the higher end at the moment at least.

Gotta give you credit a lot of other people on other forums (VWvortex, mercedes benz etc) would just say buy it its a (vw, merc etc) no matter what even if they new it wouldnt be a good idea they just have their brand held so high that it could never be considered detrimental.

So thanks for your honesty as well as knowledge in this matter. Probably would have turned into much more than i was willing to invest.

:drink1:
Don't get me wrong, not trying to tamp down your enthusiasm by any means. I've definitely got the bug myself. Just don't want your first experience to be potentially a bad one.
5-6k? Is that for a 99? That'll get you a higher mileage '04 down here. Keep looking. One will come along.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top