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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys, my name is Ray, im 23, im from NE Ohio, i just purchased an 03 Land Rover Discovery SE last week after researching a lot on here. it has 70k miles, one owner. clean carfax.

doesnt have sunroofs to leak, doesnt have SLS to go bad. no coolant in the oil(yet, knock on wood :p) not one of the bad oil pump VIN series. replaced the 3 front u-joints and centering ball with naepco greasables from Advanced Auto the day after i bought it.

next week im changing the transfer case fluid and front and rear diffs.

in the spring , im having Trailhead 4x4(Land Rover shop, not a car dealer) near me change the trans fluid and possibly the trans filters too. im personally changing the valve cover gaskets, plugs and wires with magnacores. the two little coolant hoses on the TB need replaced, leaking a little bit. then changing the coolant at that same time as well. little bit at a time, but asap too.

well ill think of more info, and questions to ask you guys(after searching), just wanted to introduce myself. SO excited about the new purchase, i have always wanted one, and found a nice one. not one scratch on it, two tiny door-ding size dents in the hood right next to each other, non smoker.

few little things need fixed, rear left corner black plastic piece has 2 broken clips, so its loose, not scuffed or cracked at all, just needs 2 new clips. right side, rear door flare needs stuck back on with some thin 3m automotive tape. all the flares need sanded and re-dyed or painted, they are faded on top and are a little rough. i found a black plastic exterior automotive trim dye kit at Summit Racing. ill have to check that out. other than that, it needs nothing, drives like a dream. very excited about the whole thing

here are some pictures


















after i got her home




 

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:buttrock: nIce ..very clean!! I bought an '03 back in December and love the whole safety factor about it plus its does pretty bitchen off road. So you got it from a dealer . Did they give you any kind of warranty?? Oh do the belt if it wasnt done or get ready to. very easy. And love that style rim u have. I just did the plugs and wires.. got the NGK plats.. and ordered the kingsbourne 8mm wires ...22 for plugs and 47 for the wires, not to shabby.. when you do the valve covers dont forget the gasket for the plenum... I need to get some pictures of mine up especialy since the windows got tinted today....good luck wit it!!
 

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thank you for the quick replies!

so i put in the 5w30 Valvoline oil in there. i have been searching around here for what oil is prefered, and im seeing TONS of different opinions. mines an 03 with the 4.6. what do you guys recommend? im thinking the 5w40, But what brand? you guys run Rotella diesel oil in your gas engines?

should i change my oil tomorrow? or will the 5w30 valvoline be ok for 3k miles until my next oil change?

im really paranoid because i want to take care of this engine, and im just seeing tons of different weights and brands, ratings that i dont know what that stuff means. and seems everybody here could have a different engine, either the 4.0, or a TDI engine etc.

what do you guys think about doing the seafoam in the oil/gas tank/induction(where would i pull the vacuum from for the seafoam in the intake) for my next oil change?

thanks again!
 

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I run 5-40 Rotella T synthetic during the winter and 15-40 during the summer, Judging by the snow on the ground in your pictures, I would go with 5-40 to help with cold wheather start up. Dont forget Premium fuel will keep your engine running cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i ran nothing but shell gasoline in my previous jeep, and have put 2 tanks of Shell 93 premium in this already.i use nothing but Shell unless there isnt one around in an emergency. and i also ran nothing but mobil1 filters/mobil1 regular synthetic oil(NOT the long interval/high milage ones)

so 6 quarts of rotella 5w40 diesel motor oil will be good for this motor?

is it just me, or do the dipsticks in these motors suck and are hard to read, oil streaks up the whole dipstick, even when you freshly wipe the dipstick each time? ;)
 

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I used mobil 1 10-40 Im also in AZ and dont really have to worry about FREEZE!!
I was in the same boat as you....what to use and ****.. Oh and the sea foam I read some postings about it but I still dont even know what the hell it is...LOL
 

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welcome, you might want to think about removing the fender flares all together, I did on mine and love the way it looks, this is the only pic that I have right now. Its easy enough to do, just get a plastic putty knife to loosen up the 3m tape and pull them off, rub off the tape that stays on and then use some goo-gone to get the rest.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i put the mobil1 301 filter in today, with Rotella T 15w40 oil non-synthetic. MUCH better!! took some new pictures today too





 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks! im still learning to use the Nikon D60, im getting a little better. i need the OME lift and disconnects :p these dont "flex" very well in stock form, but still just GO where you want them to, they dont stop! flex is overrated anyways ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
here is a picture of my Liberty that i got rid of. im gonna miss it :( but i sure do love my LR, so its not a huge issue
 

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here is a picture of my Liberty that i got rid of. im gonna miss it :( but i sure do love my LR, so its not a huge issue
WOW I would have to say I never saw one done up like that.. thats way cool , original ! so you guys might be getting more snow out your way .. there is a huge storm front that just came in off the coast of Cali and Im in AZ and right now we are getting pounded with rain...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
just a little update. im loving this thing more and more everyday. keep reading up on here as much as possible.

*rebuilt my front driveshaft with Naepco U-joints/centering ball, a few days after i bought it
*put the mobil1 301 filter on with rotella 15w40 oil
*checked my gear lube, front and back is crystal clear
*still need to do a bunch more maintenance stuff when it gets nicer out, im sure the other fluids, such as coolant, and tranny and transfer case are just as clean as all the other up-kept fluids i checked, but i like to change them anyways to be safe, i need to:

-tighten down the valve cover bolts(how do you access them?)
-change the plugs and wires
-change the tranny filter and tranny fluid
-take apart the brakes, they have lots of pad left, but just appear to be glazed over and squeak when teh brakes are lightly applied, going to take them apart and scuff them up with a DA sander
-get new leather boots made for the interior

what all does it involve to to the CDL install? is it easier to buy a used transfer case, or buy the parts to install them? where would you bu the parts and how much should i expect to spend on a used transfer case OR to buy the parts to convert it myself.

are there any guys running a rear locker, or even front and rear lockers ARB or detroit, WITHOUT the CDL?was just curious, since i dont have CDL, if it would be easier to go ahead and get a front/rear/both lockers, and just leave the transfer case alone? im guessing i should do the transfer case CDL first, then go from there as i want more traction, correct?

and when CDL is engaged, does it turn off the traction control/ABS?

im going to get the OME 751/763 springs, but not sure if im going with OME shocks or bilsteins, that will probably be late summer though

ok thats about it for now, ill think of more questions later :)
 

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I just bought an 03 Disco 2 SE7. It is in perfect conditioin except for the fender flares / wheel arch protectors (I've seen them called both). Either the sun has faded them and made them really rough near the body of the Rover or the wax buildup has caused this. Just wondering what you ended up doing with yours and how it worked.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
mine are pretty faded and rough as well, i havent touched them yet. i bought some Duplicolor trim paint, i might sand them and paint them, or i might go ahead and sand them, and use the Forever Black dye kit, not sure yet. ill probbaly end up painting them.

i tried back to black and it didnt do anything
 

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Discussion Starter #19
WOW, i just removed the resonator off the back, cut the tip/turndown off the resonator, and exhaust clamped it back on, what a difference in sound! took a whole ten minutes to do.

i dont see a reason to even buy an aftermarket muffler, let alone a whole exhaust such as Borla or Magnaflow.

it sounds so good, sounds like a Mustang GT with a nice exhaust on it, real nice mellow tone, not too loud, not raspy at all, perfect!!
 
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