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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1999 Disco II with 157k. In October 2016, belt tensioner, idler puller seized, replaced all that and the mechanic got me a top end service because of carbon build, air induction sys cleaning, new fuel pump, purge valve, oil change with 7 quarts, all at 3 grand. Less than two months later in mid December, I'm very low on oil, I hear a slight tick, oil it up and the tick goes away until last week January 20 2017. That day I hear this loud ticking at idle, pull in for a pack of smokes, restart, no noise for three days. Now the check engine light is on, after pulling codes, it's the o2 sensor bank 2? It ticks sometimes, never at start, but after running a few miles, then it ticks when idling only, when I increase rpms, it stops. Sometimes loud ticking sometimes light. It runs all lovey dovey and I can't hear it when I'm moving. It ticks more often now, but still runs well. Sounds like it's definitely coming from the engine. Can o2 sensors make ticking like that? Ideas? Thanks everyone.-Blade Phoenix
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
New oil pump last year, BUT! When tensioners were fixed, there was a healthy leak coming out of the right shock (said mechanic), but I have lost no fluid there since the shock fluid comes from it's own reservoir, I can tell, it's still full. It was oil I believe. Mechanic thought it was shocks, but it wasn't. Yes, lots came onto driveway, but it has all stopped, it's been a month since any leaking.
 

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Where did all the oil go? How low did you run it?
Have you changed the oil since it was found to be low
You need to find out where the oil went
It is either leaking it or burning it.
The ticking sounds like valvetrain from your description


Shock fluid..... Shock fluid resivior LMAO. Not a car guy are you;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Shock fluid! That's what the guy said lol!! It's the dual reservoir that also holds the power steering fluid right in front of the air filter. The later Disco's don't have dual reservoirs. Somehow I lost a lot of oil real quick after the engine work and oil change, filled it up, since then, no leaks almost at all, it's maintaining a nice level of oil. But it leaked out a lot coming down the right front shock absorber, doesn't mean that's where the leak was though. Shocks are fine. I just don't want to hear that losing seven quarts of oil in less than two months cracked a manifold or something disastrous like that. It's baffling in that, I'm not losing any oil/fluid at all now. And it runs smoooooth.
 

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Hi Bob
The " shock fluid" is the A.C.E. System (Active Cornering Enhancement) this system uses hydraulic Rams /cylinders attached to the passenger side front and rear stabilizer bars and linkage.
In conjunction with the hydraulic lines, valving Fluid pump and some electronic "magic" ;) counteracts body roll and stabilizes body roll while cornering.
As for the loss of oil .... 7 litres?..they don't hold that much even from dry. Should only take about 5-5 1/2 as I recall.

Is "Mr. Shock fluid" competent enough to be trusted to put the correct grade and amount of oil in it?

I think that if where all the oil went is a mystery, I would want to start fresh. Oil change with a good quality oil possibly 15w40, an engine stem clean /cleaning and closely monitoring oil leaks and levels. This will also possibly correct the ticking if it is oil related.

Hope this helps

Let us know how you make out
 

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When I bought this 2003 it was ticking at full operating temp because it was running too hot. If you don't have an aftermarket coolant temp gauge that truck will eventually make you pay the price. It can be dead nuts centered on normal and be running 230 or 240 degrees. Get a real temp gauge on it and find out what your coolant temps are at idle, highway, city, traffic etc. you will be shocked when you see the temp going up & down 20 degrees at a time. Probably needs a shitload of new parts. I think the cylinder liners move when the metals expand over 200 deg. Once I got the coolant temp down under 200 it never "tickticktickticked" again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you for your time redtruck. Glad you understood and thanks for explaino on shock fluid. The guy said- "oh you gotta get new shocks, those things are leaking bad." I never knew shocks leaked. But it was engine oil for sure. I'll refresh the oil and let's see. : )
 

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Now that is some terrific insider stuff, how would I get a decent aftermarket gauge-wouldn't know where to start. Thnks Chubbs!
32 MM or 1 1/4 Inch Water Sender Attachment
GlowShift White 7 Color Water Temperature Gauge
Universal Single Gauge A Pillar Pods

this is just what I have. if you go this route, get a dual pod and oil-pressure gauge too. I say this because Roverware.us sells an oil pressure sensor adapter that splices right into the factory sender; doesn't get any easier and I'm about to add it myself.


https://www.boschdiagnostics.com/diy/obd-1100

I originally started off with this and everybody should have 1. There are better options but with this unit being a Bosch, its just perfectly compatible with the ECU; they play nicely; will read and clear fault codes (check engine lamp) and displays all of the vehicle systems and calibrations in live mode and useful for monitoring the coolant temp, fuel trim, oxygen sensors, air intake, load, etc. I just added the gauge for functionality and so I wasn't holding a computer and looking down while I was driving. (Orielly Auto Parts)
 

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Now that is some terrific insider stuff, how would I get a decent aftermarket gauge-wouldn't know where to start. Thnks Chubbs!

this is what a lot of people use:

UltraGauge OBDII Scan tool & Information Center

this is what I have. if you go this route, get a dual pod and oil-pressure gauge too. I say this because Roverware.us sells an oil pressure sensor adapter that splices right into the factory sender; doesn't get any easier and I'm about to add it myself.

32 MM or 1 1/4 Inch Water Sender Attachment
GlowShift White 7 Color Water Temperature Gauge
Universal Single Gauge A Pillar Pods

I originally started off with this and everybody should have 1. There are better options but with this unit being a Bosch, its just perfectly compatible with the ECU; they play nicely; will read and clear fault codes (check engine lamp) and displays all of the vehicle systems and calibrations in live mode and useful for monitoring the coolant temp, fuel trim, oxygen sensors, air intake, load, etc. I just added the gauge for functionality and so I wasn't holding a computer and looking down while I was driving. (Orielly Auto Parts)

https://www.boschdiagnostics.com/diy/obd-1100
 

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Your tick could be a few things. First off, I would get it warm to the point where you're hearing the noise. Then I would shut it off and pull the accessory drive belt. Only run it for a moment- but that will tell you if it's in the accessory drive.

If you still have it, it's likely either valve train, a rod bearing or a collapsed piston skirt. I would bet on #2 . If you lost a cam lobe or collapsed a lifter, it would likely do it all the time, although the lifter could be causing the issue when only hot- but that's less common. The Rover pistons tend to be pretty tough so unless you overheated it, it's probably not a skirt. Another thing you can try is heavier oil. many Rover owners run a 15W 40 such as Rotella. The heavier weight will help higher mileage engines maintain pressure. You could even put a straight 50 weight in it. If the noise goes away or lessens, it's probably bearings.

Typically cam/lifter/rocker noises can be isolated by taking an 18" length of hose and while holding one end to your ear, placing the other along the valve cover and working your way down. If you suddenly get an increase in noise, you probably found the problem.

The bad news is, at 160K, you're probably at the life expectancy of much of what's inside that engine. It will probably need rings and bearings, an oil pump, a cam/lifters/rockers/shafts and a valve job. Whatever your noise ends up being is just the first of these items to cause you a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Nice work Chubbs-mechanic really liked the ultragauge, maybe that's next after I find out what this tick is, it's bad. Fires up nicely, then tickticktick in the middle of the engine it seems-going by there tomorrow. Scared to find out out, can't be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you CT;
Yes at start up it idles fine and when it warms up is when the ticking starts and it's for sure in the middle of the engine somewhere. I just had 3,000k of work done on the bearings and tensioner, new fuel pump, purge valve and top end job.
1-I will have mechanic pull accessory drive belt and take a listen.
2-I haven't overheated it, as far as I know, so I'll scratch the skirt idea
3-Yes it only ticks at random times, but every time I'm driving.
4-I'll try heavier oil first, my mechanic loves that Lucas oil treatment, how much should I put in there?
5-"It will probably need rings and bearings, an oil pump, a cam/lifters/rockers/shafts and a valve job" Just got a new oil pump last year and new rings and bearings two months ago. where does that leave me?

Thanks again, for listening.
 

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Nice work Chubbs-mechanic really liked the ultragauge, maybe that's next after I find out what this tick is, it's bad. Fires up nicely, then tickticktick in the middle of the engine it seems-going by there tomorrow. Scared to find out out, can't be good.
If you do a search there are 1 million threads on "Disco Tick"
Many owners find a coorelation between temp & tick. Some go as far to spray the block with garden hose and discover that tick stops. They say it's a loose liner moving but they should have found evidence of that when the heads were pulled. It was ticking before the top-end rebuild, was it not? I would be heartbroken to put that much $ into the engine and find the block is faulty. How many days has it been now? You can't get an OBD reader that shows coolant temp? Man..I would have already been on top of this if I were you; just noticed how much work is in your motor. Get those temps. Over 200 deg....prob causing your tick
 

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Thank you CT;
Yes at start up it idles fine and when it warms up is when the ticking starts and it's for sure in the middle of the engine somewhere. I just had 3,000k of work done on the bearings and tensioner, new fuel pump, purge valve and top end job.
1-I will have mechanic pull accessory drive belt and take a listen.
2-I haven't overheated it, as far as I know, so I'll scratch the skirt idea
3-Yes it only ticks at random times, but every time I'm driving.
4-I'll try heavier oil first, my mechanic loves that Lucas oil treatment, how much should I put in there?
5-"It will probably need rings and bearings, an oil pump, a cam/lifters/rockers/shafts and a valve job" Just got a new oil pump last year and new rings and bearings two months ago. where does that leave me?

Thanks again, for listening.
The only additive I would suggest is a zinc (ZDDP) additive for extended cam lobe protection on those flat lifters. Since everything these days is either OHC or roller lifter, the zinc in motor oils has been rapidly decreasing. A half bottle per oil change should be sufficient.

If you look at the oiling system schematic on this engine, alot of oil is diverted to the cam and rockers. Unlike a fulcrum rocker system where the oil is regulated through the lifters and unaffected by engine wear, these direct-lubricated shaft rockers will wear and cause increased clearance which causes loss of oil. Ironically, the aluminum rockers don't really wear- it's the shafts. If you didn't do shafts when you did this other work that may be part of your issue. You said the pump was done- if that was just the gears and not the housing, excess clearances in the housing aren't helped by new gears.

If it's "deep inside", it's probably not a rod bearing. They knock or the don't. An easy test is this- free rev it a bit. The mildly knocking rod won't knock when there's some load on it.

It could be the mysterious liner knock I've hear tell of around here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
No Chubbs, this all started a month after engine work, I'd never let something like that go. Took it by mechanic and he says "oh look, oil leaking from engine block, bring it by next week, not that big of a deal." I'm keeping it oiled up, but no signs of leaks on driveway anywhere. Seems the level is steady. he left something undone after engine work, I lost 7 quarts in six weeks after the work. It's not lifters he says, or valves. Engine block loose? One more time, what's a good range of temps for engine?

CT The free rev yeilds no ticking-knocking.
 
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