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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all -

I picked up today, super cheap, a 2003 Disco 2, SE7, 130k miles. Its got a slew of issues and Im wondering some opinions on it. I have already a 2004 Disco that Ive managed to keep on the road for the last 4 years so Im no stranger to the issues Im about to face. Its does run but the seller overheated it - yikes!
Seems to run ok, no ticks, and I think disaster was averted as the seller shut it down right away.

Admittedly though, I have not seen this many codes and Im wondering your thoughts and opinions based on the attached report (screen shot attached) the seller was nice enough to convey with the sale from a local Rover dealer.

92230
 

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very disco
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If you run it does it overheat again?

head gaskets?
 

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I have to get all new pulleys and a belt on it. Im ordering a new water pump, fan clutch, fan too. Just ordered today so I will report back on this ASAP.
 

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very disco
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Haven’t seen you in awhile, welcome back to the grind
 

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Hey thanks ole friend! My 2004 is humming along nicely since I got the new Rad installed. I watch the temp like a hawk and Im still maintaining 188.6 degrees F on the highway and up 5-10 degrees in traffic with AC blasting.

I haven't had enough punishment yet so I got another one to tinker with. Looks similar to yours, yes?

I picked this up so cheaply, I couldn't pass on it. Hoping to resurrect it. I think the passenger side idler pulley failed and either it jumped the track and is routed improperly because of that or the previous owner decided not to replace the pulley and thought they could get away with not including it in the serpentine route! Either way, naturally nothing is spinning and thus the over heat.

The service history is extensive and well documented for the first 2/3 of its life but the last owners either didn't tend to it or have nothing to report. Frame is pretty good, not perfect but better than my 04 when I first bought it. Ive never seen a headliner almost perfect in one of these before so I suspect this spent a decent amount of time garaged.

I have a ton of parts on order so in the coming weeks I will report back and hope to knock out some/most of the codes showing.

Any suggestions to remove smoke smell anyone? I have an ozone generator but looking for other suggestions too.

Thanks all!
 

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very disco
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Once you get it running, place the ozone generator on the front passenger floor, and run the truck (off and on) with the heater on recirculate after lightly wetting the headliner and carpets. We used to do that in the shop I used to run, and we had a 100% success rate, as wetting the upholstery allows the ozone to penetrate better, windows sealed of course. It may take two days of blasting, but you’ll get it. A lot of the persistent smoke odor will come from the hvac because people are gross and like to smoke with the windows up and the heater on. A high volume generator, 3000CFH or better is ideal, and a small fan to circulate as ozone will stagnate down low when the blower is off.

it’ll smell like a swimming pool for some time, but after that it’s game time. My RRS was a rolling ashtray when I bought it, and it took about a week with my baby coronal discharge generator, but I got it. My wife drove it daily and she doesn’t smoke, so you know it worked!
 

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Hello - Just an update. I replaced all the pulleys on the front of the engine and a new belt. Re-filled with coolant (was green so I'm using green), evacuated air from system. I also replaced the Vacuum Control Valve for the SAI system. Im happy to report after a short test drive Im only left with a P0305, misfire on Cylinder 5. Its definitely running a little rough. Im waiting on my Ultra-Guage to show up so I can watch temps real time but so far, I didn't see an overheat situation.

My plan next is to do the coil pack relocation kit, new coil packs, new wires and plugs. Cant wait to try and get my hands behind the intake! Hopefully in replacing the plugs, wires etc, I can maybe get this thing on the road!

Other items to do:
-Condenser fan seized
-Drivers seat controls gone, new one inserted but still no movement
-Front end work, track bar, drag link, probably ball joints too
-Perhaps replacement of front driveshaft though I see this was done on the carfax by the dealer years ago - thoughts there?
-Other minor cosmetic fixes including more Ozone with the techniques listed above from ReverendALC. Thanks!

Cheers!
 

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very disco
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there are very few joys greater than keeping a Rover on the road and out of the yard
 

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there are very few joys greater than keeping a Rover on the road and out of the yard
I saved mine from the scrapyard, and I couldn't agree more - love keeping unique vehicles like these on the road. One of the guys I buy used parts from that runs a Rover yard says he sends over 100 (!) Land Rovers to the crusher per week after grabbing the good parts off them. It's insane how many cars get scrapped because of minor issues. People are so wasteful.
 

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Yeah, but your average joe without tools and aptitude would bleed dry at the shop if they couldn’t hack it themselves.

unfortunately most rovers lose their “mass appeal” when their favorite celebrity is spotted in the newer body style
 

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Yeah, but your average joe without tools and aptitude would bleed dry at the shop if they couldn’t hack it themselves.
Valid point. It only cost me $300 in parts to get mine back to running and driving condition, but probably a good 10-15 hours of labor. The labor costs are what kills it for most people I think. I do all my own work, but the well-off families who buy these things new would be taking it to the dealer, where they would get charged an arm and a leg for the same jobs.
unfortunately most rovers lose their “mass appeal” when their favorite celebrity is spotted in the newer body style
It is unfortunate. I tend to forget that, especially since the D2 drives like a leather-lined piece of '60s farm equipment. On the bright side, at least that lack of mass appeal on older models allows us enthusiasts to get good off-road trucks for a tiny fraction of their original price.
 

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Yep! Also, you see a Jeep at EVERY stop light, probably a Toyota too. So cultish is fine with me.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Latest updates - -

I replaced plugs (Champion Platinum) and wires.
Went with the coil pack relocation kit and new Bosch coils.

Viola! Seems to run nicely so far. MUCH quieter.

No CEL present now!

On to the next item - seems like I may have low oil pressure (light on dash at idle). I will take the pan off and check the pick up screen, hopefully is a simple fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The latest if anyone cares :)

Im getting a P0135 code and Im about to change all four O2 sensors with Bosch units. When I read up on this code, its a "heater circuit"? Anyways Im about to change these. Is there anything else I should be looking into for this code?
 

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O2 Sensors - wow what a PITA. Anyone have any tips or tricks on the front two (upstream)? Ive been soaking them in WD40 for over a week, hit them with a torch multiple times, now to the point where the two O2 sockets have stripped the head of the unit. Especially the drivers side....just cant get a wrench on it. Any suggestions?
 

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Dang! Do you weld? I’ve occasionally had to weld some “grip” to things...
 

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I do not but may have to learn in a hurry! I was able to get the front upstream out on the passenger side. If the drivers side is locked like the passenger side was, this is going to be interesting. I bought an air chisel tool and started chipping away at it. There is no chance a socket will fit anymore. I've used Mapp gas now, PB Blaster and a vice grip but theres just so little room. I will see if I can chisel it out and I suppose last resort is removing the Y pipe.

Question: If I wanted to run the truck with three working O2's, would I damage anything until I could get the old one out and replaced?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
OK - New down tube/ Cats installed (Magnaflow) and new O2's in. Transmission fluid change and Fresh Oil done. Sounds great, no CEL - - - But - - - New issue - fuel leak. Im going to start a new thread on this.
 
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