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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HI All,
Just bought an 88 RR Classic- 3.5 V8, from the warehouse next to mine- I've been eyeing it for the last 2.5 years- sitting in the same place, no air in the tires, etc. Finally the guy sold it to me for a GREAT price- said he drove it in one day and it wouldn't start, so doesn't know whats wrong, blah blah blah blah.

To make a long story short, found the little solenoid wire disconnected, hooked it up, a few cranks and vroom!

My questions, if anyone can help or point me in the right direction.... and NO, I don't have any manuals.

What does LWB mean (or is is as simple as "Long Wheel Base")?
How do you tell if you have a LWB?

What size is the oil drain nut? mine looks like a 40mm???
Does everybodys oil hit the exhaust pipe?

Does your RRC start up immediately? I have to crank it for a while, sometimes fuel injection cars start right up-

I read in one of the threads to whack the parking brake drum to free the shoes- mine the parking brake lever does not move, and I can only drive it in LOW range- the thread said "...removed the cover (I'm assuming from inside?) and loosened the adjuster on the drum???? Anybody have a pic of this?
Also read that cables freeze- that could be the case here as well?

My turn signals don't work, nor does the 4-way flaasher? Is this a common thing on our cars? Is there a flaasher relay somewhere? if so, where? I checked the fuse, it's ok.

Any comments on a standard replacement tire? 205/80/16? My local RR dealer in Dayton Oh said- "We don't do tires, you'll have to go to a tire dealer" Don't want to get a tire discussion going, just thoughts on new tires so I don't have to adjust anything on the body.

Where can I get a non-K&N air filter that will fit?

Thanks in advance for any and all help. This looks like a great board and a fantastic group of knowledge.

One more question- is there an adjustment for the front brush guard- mine is pretty close to the grill, the hood hits it going up and down- adjust? or wrap a chain around it and a tree and back up?

Thanks,
Carl
 

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Kleantouch said:
What does LWB mean (or is is as simple as "Long Wheel Base")?
How do you tell if you have a LWB?
LWB stands for Long Wheel Base. The LWB started in 1993 (so you don't have one) and they added 8 inches to the rear door. The LWB's have a longer rear door than the SWB's. It's pretty easy to pick them out.
Does your RRC start up immediately? I have to crank it for a while, sometimes fuel injection cars start right up
How long is "a while"? I have to crank mine for maybe a second to two seconds before it starts up.

I read in one of the threads to whack the parking brake drum to free the shoes- mine the parking brake lever does not move, and I can only drive it in LOW range- the thread said "...removed the cover (I'm assuming from inside?) and loosened the adjuster on the drum???? Anybody have a pic of this?
Also read that cables freeze- that could be the case here as well?
You could try whacking the drum, but it's fairly unlikely that it will do anything. Is the lever stuck in the up (on) position?

Any comments on a standard replacement tire? 205/80/16? My local RR dealer in Dayton Oh said- "We don't do tires, you'll have to go to a tire dealer" Don't want to get a tire discussion going, just thoughts on new tires so I don't have to adjust anything on the body.
What kind've tire do you want? Mud-Terrain? All-Terrain? There're a few tire threads around here on the boards. Have a look.

Where can I get a non-K&N air filter that will fit?
Sounds like you should give Rover's North a call in Vermont. They can supply you with anything and everything you could need.

One more question- is there an adjustment for the front brush guard- mine is pretty close to the grill, the hood hits it going up and down- adjust? or wrap a chain around it and a tree and back up?
Mine doesn't have one, but I'm pretty sure it's just bolted onto the frame. Your tree idea sounds like a plan. Just be careful :)

http://roversnorth.com is one of the best places for anything Land Rover (if you're in the states). They can point you in the right direction with just about anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the quick response.

My parking brake lever is stuck about nidway and doesn't go up or down. Is the tear down to remove the drive shaft, drum, "fix it" and then put back together?

>You could try whacking the drum, but it's fairly unlikely that it will do >anything. Is the lever stuck in the up (on) position?

I'll get some parts ordered from RoversNorth.com Thanks.
 

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When I got my first RRC, I made the mistake of pulling the brake lever. It also stuck. On mine, I was able to crawl underneath and jiggle the cable/bracket on the brake drum and it released. I had to do that twice cause I didn't tell my wife not to set the brake either. I have since disconnected it.

Only thing I need to do now is put a sticker on the lever to say "Do not move." A quicky oil change place busted my console the other day by pulling the lever as far as they could. Since it has no resistance, it was pulled so hard that it lifted the console and broke it on the driver's side. I was pissed, but couldn't really blame them "too much" since the average person would expect the parking brake to work on a car. Didn't stop me from swearing for a while.

Before I get hammered by all the peps saying I am wrong for not having a working parking brake, yes you are right, I am wrong but also lazy... :rolleyes:

On my other RRC, the brush guard was hitting the hood like you discribed. Loosen the brackets and pull on on the guard (by hand) and then tighten them up again. Worked for me.

For a non-KN air filter, I was able to buy a KN-like-type of filter on ebay for pretty cheap. Don't remember how much, but it was like half of the price of a KN and is still a re-usable one.

I get alot of my Rover parts on ebay. Filter, Distributer cap w/ router, alternator w/o need for exchange. I just bought fuel injectors from fiveOmotorsports.com. They are ford injectors, but seem to good to go so far.

Good luck to you...
 

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Does everybodys oil hit the exhaust pipe?
Done know what the positioning looks like under an 88 3.5 RRC, but on my 96 4.0 D1, my driver's side pipe has become white from all the oil that has dripped and been burned over the years...


(in this case, it would be the one on the right side in the picture)

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the advice- to update-
I've got some parts coming from Rover's North- air filter, oil sump gasket, Haynes manual.

Oil does hit the pipe just like the picture.

Tapped the cable end at the parking brake drum and lo and behold it released- had my son pull up on the handle, and it stuck, tapped it free, Range Rover runs nicely. I'll have to douche the inner cable with some WD (or is that an easy replacement??).

I too bought some injectors from fiveOmotorsports- great people, great prices, great service- mine were for my Corvette, but thanks for reminding me if I need some.

Next is a tune up....

I'll keep you posted.
Thanks,
Carl
 

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Kleantouch said:
Thanks for all the advice- to update-
I've got some parts coming from Rover's North- air filter, oil sump gasket, Haynes manual.

Oil does hit the pipe just like the picture.

Tapped the cable end at the parking brake drum and lo and behold it released- had my son pull up on the handle, and it stuck, tapped it free, Range Rover runs nicely. I'll have to douche the inner cable with some WD (or is that an easy replacement??).

I too bought some injectors from fiveOmotorsports- great people, great prices, great service- mine were for my Corvette, but thanks for reminding me if I need some.

Next is a tune up....

I'll keep you posted.
Thanks,
Carl
Welcome to the RRCs - they are great!!! I love mine even when it's not working!

IF you do the rotor on the distributor - take some plyers and break/crack the plactice of the rotor off - DO NOT PULL IT OFF - please just trust me here - I sat with an unusable truck for three weeks trying to find a whole new distributor that I could afford. We thought it would imply pull off like every other rotor we've ever replaced - WRONG!!!!

Also here's a manual the haynes manual is ok for the simple stuff - but that's a full break down. Just goto the bottom of the page for the Classic listing. It's the same as you would get if you bought the infamous "rave" cd for your computer.

Next time for a just a regular paper filter try a big name local auto parts place - they will probably have to order more than likely.

and just so ya know - if it's not leaking - it's dry ;)
 

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Dang, I guess I lucked out with my rotor. That is good to know for next time.

I like that quote about the leaking vs: dry. That applies to all my vehicles since my 90 RRC is the newest rig I have. I am thinking of coating my driveway with black/gray coloring just so it won't look so bad.
 

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a bit of advice i hope is useful

hi my rangie had the hand brake thing happen & the easiest & most complete cure was to drop the rear drive shaft out undo the two bolts holding the park brake drum in place & clean the inside & pads with good quality commercial brake cleaner. the oil leaks that we all know and love tend to get everywhere & this is one of those spots. once in the drum the pads get soaked & either bind or stop stopping!

check the flasher unit under the dash for the indicators, etc. it's an electronic unit in anything later than 86 & it's unusual for it to fail, however it is common for the lights (rear particularly) to leak water & build up corrosion that doesn't actually stop them but creates a short every so often.

as far as the oil on the exhaust goes, see the answer above re leaks! they all do it & the smell of toasted fluid is something you'll come to love in the morning!

good luck with the hassles.
 

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oh yeah i forgot to mention...clean the engine breathers on the top of the rocker covers of your V8 if you're getting excessive oil leaks.
the main breather is the tubular tower on the front left bank with a hose running to the plenum chamber & it has a piece of stell mesh in it to catch crud in the oil. remove by twisting/unscrewing the tower, wash the mesh in petrol & refit, also clean the small breather at the rear of the right bank. it's just a piece of foam but it should be clean to allow the pressure to relieve.
 
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