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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everyone!
I just purchased my first Range Rover. It's a 1992 Classic with 190,000 miles.
I just took it to the mechanic and he claims it needs the following but he can't do it. Seams like a crock fo you know what...any advice on what is the most important?

  • Clicking sound coming from L/S Front Wheel Dust c.
  • Brake Pedal Feels Sticky, Brake Shop Booster
  • Oil Pan and Oil Filter Housing Leaking
  • Front and Rear Differentials Leaking
  • Transfer Case Oil Dirty
  • Transmission Leaking
  • Front And Rear Suspension
  • Engine and Trans Mount

Thanks!

- M
 

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Welcome to the forum and congrats on your RRC.

If it were me, I’d do:
Brakes (safety)
Leaks (concern)
Shocks/Mounts (preventative maintenance)
And then the nuisances (annoying)
 
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I'd definitely start with the brakes, but I'd just flush them and bleed them properly first. If they still seem off, then I'd look into replacing parts. Clicking sound from the front wheel could be wheel bearings, could be the CV joint, could be something simple, hard to diagnose from that.

In terms of leaks, its British! If there's no fluids under 'em, there's no fluids in 'em! I would be least concerned about that, just make sure all the levels are topped up and check them occasionally (oil dipstick is between cylinders 3 and 5, transmission dipstick is under the hood on the passenger side by the firewall, make sure to measure using the right method, warm idle, in neutral, something like that for tranny fluid). Flushing the transfer case is good to do and easy DIY or a quick job at the shop, just make sure they put the right fluid in (pretty sure the BW chain drive T-case takes ATF, not gear oil)!

In terms of suspension, if it's original, it probably needs it. Range Rovers came with extremely soft springs, hence the wonderful ride. The down side is that it's a heavy truck, and just the act of sitting on those springs for years causes them to sag, so if they're original, it's definitely sitting lower that it used to. Same with the shocks, they do wear out, bilstein makes excellent replacements, or you can still find stock equivalents. Shocks, springs, and bushings are good wear items to replace when buying an old rover. Welcome to the club, let us know if you have any other questions! Rangerovers.net has a great range rover classic forum too, so you can post questions there too for a wider audience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Lance! Thanks so much. I’m off to the mechanic today, I really appreciate your feedback.
Have a great week!
 

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Dump the mechanic
And do your own repairs
I have a 92....
I wouldn’t let anyone ever touch it...
But that’s me..
No matter what
Your gonna love you rover
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mikieman,
I hear year and would love to do my own repairs. Any advice on a jack that is trust worthy? I don’t want to kill myself working on the truck inside my garage.
 

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Don’t use a bottle jack or scissor jack, and most importantly, don’t crawl under the truck while on a jack. Always use jack stands, and use them on a smooth, hard, flat surface.
 
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Get a good ....at least 3 ton floor jack...
There are some good ones out there...
And definitely get jack stands good ones .... I use two sets as I am always by myself... safety above all...
 

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Be very careful with your choice of mechanic. If he is not used to working on Range Rovers, trial and error on his part can cost you a lot of money - for all the wrong reasons Ask me how I know this!

Unfortunately, doing the work yourself can also result in wasted time and money. I seriously suggest you ask others on the Range Rover forums for recommendations Sure you can do many of the simple things while you develop experience but don't tackle the really critical jobs just yet.

Even brake bleeding can be tricky especially if you are working on your own. The cost of a brake specialist will be quite reasonable and much safer.
That clicking sound could be a worn CV joint. Test it yourself on a flat level surface by driving in tight circles in both directions. Replacing the component is doable, but not for an amateur without a hoist
The suspension and engine mounts are also jobs for those who know what they are doing and without a proper hoist, you would be asking for trouble. Just seating the new bushes can be quite difficult

Sorry to sound so negative but I have owned 8 Range Rovers over 20+ years, write all of the content for the Graeme Cooper website and Blog so I think I can claim some experience. Find a really good independent shop (not a dealer) and go from there
 

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Agreed. I’ve used the same independent European garage for the last 20yrs. I do as much as I can (or am willing), but there are definitely jobs better suited to the pros.
 
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Hello Everyone!
I just purchased my first Range Rover. It's a 1992 Classic with 190,000 miles.
I just took it to the mechanic and he claims it needs the following but he can't do it. Seams like a crock fo you know what...any advice on what is the most important?

  • Clicking sound coming from L/S Front Wheel Dust c.
  • Brake Pedal Feels Sticky, Brake Shop Booster
  • Oil Pan and Oil Filter Housing Leaking
  • Front and Rear Differentials Leaking
  • Transfer Case Oil Dirty
  • Transmission Leaking
  • Front And Rear Suspension
  • Engine and Trans Mount
Thanks!

- M
Hi
First look at the brakes...If it is leaking oil it must be covered in oil and dirt down below. clean it all off de-grease the engine, pan and around the pump. the front around the valve covers. Remove the little can that is sticking out of the valve cove( remove hose and twist it out) clean the mesh in there. when you have all that done. run the engine. look for leaks, could be the hoses from the oil cooler to pump that are leaking. Probably the valve covers leaking for sure. front and rear diffs leaking from where? by the diff seal (behind where the driveshafts connect? Tranny leaking should be fixed right away. They are great transmissions really, but if they run low on fluid then it will be ruined pretty quickly. Look into the clicking sound, could be the CV inside the shiny ball area(is there any warning lights on?). That is a bit more complicated but easy enough. Learn to fix some of this stuff or you will go broke! Engine mounts are easy too, same with the t-case mounts. Let a professional do the brakes, the bleed procedure is a bit complex.Not a brake shop but a person that works on or has done rovers.Change all fluids in tcase it uses Tranny fluid) If it is the stock Borg Warner.change diff grease both ends, it is probably horrible by now. Transmission fluid should be changed and tranny filter. Remember to have the tranny coolant lines blown out to get the nasty tranny fluid out. Be prepared for the heater core to go out unless its been replaced. That takes me 10 hours to do and I am good at it...change the coolant and flush out the system. This vehicle sounds like it has not had any maintenance, you will have to catch up on that. the 100,000 mile service is 2 pages in the manual, GET ONE! hope this helps
 
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