Land Rover and Range Rover Forum banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
2002 Land Rover Discovery 2
Joined
·
155 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey gang!

So for the last week or so I was getting a weird squeaking sound coming from the passenger side glove box area every time I started the car. Lasted for about 5-7 seconds and then went away and all was good.

Now the blower for both the front and rear are AC units doesn’t work. But the climate control consol works. You can press buttons and everything, but there’s no change to the actual air being moved.

Found a great video online of Atlantic British changing out a climate control blower motor resistor. But I’m not sure that the conditions fit what I’ve got going on. What do you all think? Could it just be the motor itself? Since it was squeaking I feel like that makes sense. The resistor wouldn’t have done that since it has no moving parts.

Thanks!

UPDATE: Problem solved!! See page 2 for the solution.
 

·
very disco
Joined
·
2,456 Posts
It could’ve been a failing motor that took out some ancillary electronics when it died
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bigmant773

·
Registered
2002 Land Rover Discovery 2
Joined
·
155 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
It could’ve been a failing motor that took out some ancillary electronics when it died
Hopefully not! I feel as though the fan wouldn’t ruin too much. Although I’ve been looking on Atlantic British and this stuff is expensive!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,613 Posts
You'll have to unplug the blower and measure for voltage in the connector with the unit set to max speed and if you have voltage connect the blower back and measure that way... if the voltage drops the problem is more likely in the fusebox, quite common
 

·
Expert Crate Digger
Joined
·
383 Posts
Taking out the blower motor and resistor pack isn't hard but you'll have to be a bit of a contortionist to do it. lol
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bigmant773

·
Registered
2002 Land Rover Discovery 2
Joined
·
155 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It could’ve been a failing motor that took out some ancillary electronics when it died
You'll have to unplug the blower and measure for voltage in the connector with the unit set to max speed and if you have voltage connect the blower back and measure that way... if the voltage drops the problem is more likely in the fusebox, quite common
Taking out the blower motor and resistor pack isn't hard but you'll have to be a bit of a contortionist to do it. lol
Well I replaced the blower motor and still nothing. So next thing to check is that connector correct? What should the voltage read when the fan is on high? And I checked the fuse box before I bought the motor and all the fuses are good, is that what you were referring to Sierraferry?
 

·
very disco
Joined
·
2,456 Posts
Have you checked the blower relay?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bigmant773

·
very disco
Joined
·
2,456 Posts
Try swapping with a different relay, or just jumping the input/output with a short wire

swapping relays is safer
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bigmant773

·
Registered
2002 Land Rover Discovery 2
Joined
·
155 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Try swapping with a different relay, or just jumping the input/output with a short wire

swapping relays is safer
Is there another one under there that looks the same that I can pull off of something else?
 

·
very disco
Joined
·
2,456 Posts
Almost certainly… just have a look!
 

·
Registered
2002 Land Rover Discovery 2
Joined
·
155 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Almost certainly… just have a look!
Damn... swapped the relays and still nothing. Double checked the interior fuses and all good there too. I am truly at a loss.
 

·
very disco
Joined
·
2,456 Posts
If you’re unfamiliar with these relays, they work like this:
93321

The power input comes into the relay. There’s a coil across the middle, which when energized, allows the power input to flow to the output. One side of the coil is permanently grounded (or powered sometimes) and the other side of the coil is switched on/off. It basically acts like a light switch that’s controlled by a wire instead of a finger.

if you pull the relay, you can check that the input has 12v and that the coil has 12v when the heater is “turned on”
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Where is the relay exactly?
My AC blower is not working. Voltage at the connector at the bottom of the blower measures around 10.3V for all fan speed settings, except it is 12V for full speed. Voltage at the connector on the right (looks like the commonly burned one) measures 12V and it doesn't look burned. Any idea?
 

·
Registered
2002 Land Rover Discovery 2
Joined
·
155 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Where is the relay exactly?
My AC blower is not working. Voltage at the connector at the bottom of the blower measures around 10.3V for all fan speed settings, except it is 12V for full speed. Voltage at the connector on the right (looks like the commonly burned one) measures 12V and it doesn't look burned. Any idea?
Been doing some research on this myself. Does your fan work on full power? If not then it’s not a problem with your relay. The way power is routed through the relay allows the fan to work on full speed, but nothing else if there’s an issue with it.

If you don’t believe me though, go under the glove box and look for this, there should be two of them to the right of the blower motor. Just swap them and see if that fixes your problem.
93327
 

·
very disco
Joined
·
2,456 Posts
Yes, the relays behavior should be binary. It’s either on or off. They usually fail into always on or always off. Even were it to fail in a manner that it was aaaalmost making contact and making a smidgeon only of contact, it would overheat and eventually fail to always off (or on).
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bigmant773

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,613 Posts
I say again, you have to measure voltage in the blower's connector unplugged and if the voltage drops hard with fan connected the problem is a dry joint o corrosion in the fusebox
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bigmant773

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
I say again, you have to measure voltage in the blower's connector unplugged and if the voltage drops hard with fan connected the problem is a dry joint o corrosion in the fusebox
Ok. Blower works when connected directly to battery.
Voltage at the blower plug is 12V if blower is not connected.
Voltage at the blower plug drops to 0V if blower is connected.
I still can't locate the relays.
Is it the fusebox on the driver side you were talking about? How do you disconnect the plugs on the back side? Do you disconnect them before or after taking the whole fusebox out?
It will be 100F here in SoCal in couple days. I really need this fixed.
 

·
very disco
Joined
·
2,456 Posts
Idk if on the D2 the blower relay is under the hood or in the fuse box, I can’t recall.

if you remove the fasteners from the fuse box, you can then easily (hahah not really) disconnect the harnesses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
I found the relays, swapped them, but that didn't fix the issue.
Voltage at fuse #7 drops when I try to turn on fan so it is very likely the fuse box. Now the question is how do I take the fuse box out? There is no way that I could get it out without removing the plugs at the back side first.
I saw this
It didn't look too difficult for him. Maybe I just need to try harder
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top