[skyhawk]

97 Disco failed to start several times. I usually waited it out (one hour or so) and it would start. Finally it refuses to run at all. Read thread on spider box located under dash, hope I don't have to venture in there. All fuses checked out OK, test light indicates power on backside of fuel pump fuse located under bonnet, pressed fuel cutoff switch as per owner's manual, removed carpet and sound barrier then cover plate on top of fuel tank, removed power plug for fuel pump and turned key switch to on position. Test light indicated no power here. Also depressed fuel pressure bleedoff valve at injector rail and only one drop of fuel leaked out. Anybody have knowledge of this problem or will I be tearing the dash out for the spider box which is part of alarm & disabling system.

 

[John C]

Have you resolved this problem? I'm having the same problem with my 96 DI.

I replaced fuel pump, multifunction relay (in engine compartment), checked all fuses, replaced fuel filter, checked relays, checked ECU, etc... still no fuel.

Let me know what you find out.

Thanks,

John

 

[Toddicus]

i had the same problem after a horrible off roading incident that equaled lots of mud..i replaced alot of things..and it was my fuel pump relay. if you want, i have a BRAND NEW fuel pump relay, and a perfect working fuel pump that i will sell you for dirt cheap compared to what dealers charge.

 

[troverman]

The alarm immobilizer does not have any control over the fuel pump, only the engine mgt computer. Wherever the relays are stored in the DI, (under the hood in the P38 Range Rover) find the one for the fuel pump. Directly add power (by jumpering into the terminals from the batt or another relay) My guess is the fuel pump will run. You could try swapping a relay (they should be color-coded.) Perhaps your disco still uses the old Rover system of fuseable links (my '92 Classic does; my P38 does not.) I don't think its an alarm issue.

 

[John C]

i had the same problem after a horrible off roading incident that equaled lots of mud..i replaced alot of things..and it was my fuel pump relay. if you want, i have a BRAND NEW fuel pump relay, and a perfect working fuel pump that i will sell you for dirt cheap compared to what dealers charge.

Thanks for the offer but I replaced the fuel pump and relays already.

 

[John C]

The alarm immobilizer does not have any control over the fuel pump, only the engine mgt computer. Wherever the relays are stored in the DI, (under the hood in the P38 Range Rover) find the one for the fuel pump. Directly add power (by jumpering into the terminals from the batt or another relay) My guess is the fuel pump will run. You could try swapping a relay (they should be color-coded.) Perhaps your disco still uses the old Rover system of fuseable links (my '92 Classic does; my P38 does not.) I don't think its an alarm issue.

The relays are under the glove box and there is a Multifunction/Fuel Pump relay in the engine compartment (in front of the cannister).

I ran a wire directly to the pump and the pump runs but it won't start.

I'm having problems with the ignition so I have a feeling it's the ignition/tumbler. I'll try swapping the one from my 95 D1.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[totallymann]

Have you replaced the harness that runs from the pump to the engine. I had the same problem this summer on vacation. Took it to Cape Fear LR and they replaced the pump but not the harness. Got home and it still was running poorly. Took it to local LR dealer and they noticed the harness at the pump was funky and not sending enough voltage to the engine. SO, second new pump under warranty and new harness this time. FIXED?? Yes I think so.

 

[John C]

Update:

Ran a wire to the fuel pump but she still won't start. I have a feeling the engine is immobilized. Where is this SPIDER IMMOBILIZER?

Thx

 

[Toddicus]

question,
have you tried spraying starting fuel directly into the Throttle Body to see if it starts that way?

 

[John C]

I'll try tonite, I'll also check for spark.

Thanks alot.

 

[skyhawk]

After three nights of trouble shooting I found that when I turn ignition key switch to on by the time I could walk to back of vehicle there was no voltage on pump wire. Didn't know it would auto shut off power after aprox. 5 seconds if engine does not start. Disconected fuel line at pump rigged a 12 volt tire air pump to the fuel line with duct tape energized air air pump, that put about 20-25 lbs pressure on remaining fuel in rail, hauled ass to driver seat turned key and engine starts fine. Diagnoised case....Failed Fuel Pump. Now, fellows let's drag the boat behind the rover down to Murrells Inlet,SC and catch some flounder.

 

[Toddicus]

skyhawk, i have a perfect condition fuel pump i'll sell you for dirt cheap. hit me up

 

[skyhawk]

From what I read on a thread earler last week it is behind the radio. the radio and vents and possibly some controls switches need to come out first to gain access to it. I stumbled on to an article which may have been on this forum and it had an address I clicked it and Ithink it took me to Land rovers enthuisist forum.com Also I believe the moderator was a dude named "bait" He's an expert on those things. I've been back tracking all threads so when I find his article I'll send you the address. His article mentions taking the box apart and resorldering some of the paths on the circuit board.

skyhawk

 

[skyhawk]

Update:

Ran a wire to the fuel pump but she still won't start. I have a feeling the engine is immobilized. Where is this SPIDER IMMOBILIZER?

Thx

John C--I pulled on spark plug out and checked for spark, which it had. Next I removed power supply on top of fuel pump, then rigged an air pump (Wal Mart Type) to fuel line and duct taped small plastic fitting to join them. I started air pump and it put enough pressure on remaining fuel in line and car started.