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Discussion Starter #1
Not starting "M" and "S" light flashed, Intermittant starting problems

Hi, I have a 99 Disco 2 with 85000 mi, I drove up a steep bumpy street and two lights manual and sport mode lights began to flash and went into limp mode. I didnt drive thru any puddles or rain in the past week. I turned off the car, didnt start, 5 min later started and no lights. then drove 15 min.

2 hours later started right up. drove about 15 min through stop lights and highway and stopped at a light down the street from my house and it stalled. i was also facing down a hill. coasted to the side and would not start for a good 20 min trying about every 5 min. NO LIGHTS except for the SES light that has been on prior for a bad O2 sensor. 20 min later started up and got me home. Battery connections look good and tight.

Any ideas i could test in my driveway. college student here going home for thxgiving and it is a 6 hour drive.... hope it makes it!!
 

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You have low voltage somewhere. That battery is bad, the connections are dirty, the grounds are not clean. It may give the outward appearnce of all is good, but it would be important to have those things checked by a machine that can measure the voltage at the battery and the alternator.

Most of your local auto parts people will do these tests for free, Autozone, Advantage etc..they want you to buy the new battery from them, cool, free installation.

In the picture below is the grounding to the body of the vehical you may want to remove the nut and use a brush or fine file to clean them up. I recently had the same issue and it was the battery. Replaced it and it is fine.

 

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x2, I was on the trail and it happened to me...Luckily someone in the group had rovacomm or testbook or whatever and said the same thing, the trans computer didn't like a low voltage when I tried to put the cdl on. Let the truck run with no radio/air/etc. for a good while and didn't have any problems the rest of the day, but it ended up being a bad battery (SLS conversion recently and the compressor had drained my battery one too many times before I could get the ECU switched to rear coils) and I just replaced it with a diehard platinum.

Good Luck!
 

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x2, I was on the trail and it happened to me...Luckily someone in the group had rovacomm or testbook or whatever and said the same thing, the trans computer didn't like a low voltage when I tried to put the cdl on. Let the truck run with no radio/air/etc. for a good while and didn't have any problems the rest of the day, but it ended up being a bad battery (SLS conversion recently and the compressor had drained my battery one too many times before I could get the ECU switched to rear coils) and I just replaced it with a diehard platinum.

Good Luck!
It was T4. Which Diehard? PM2 or PM1
 

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You need voltage of 13.6 to 14.4 volts, if you don't have that then go to Sears and buy the new Blue marine 34 Series battery which is a deep cycle battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So i just pulled off the terminals and cleaned them. the truck turns over fast and strong no sign of a bad battery, how can the battery still be the problem. Did yours just go bad all of a sudden? mine was never drained or died in the past 6 months. and after i put the terminals back on the lights are off but the truck will not start?

i read it could be a bad neutral safety switch or corroded connectors. does anyone know where to find the box under the truck by the tranny??

. but i need to figure this out asap i want to go home for thxgiving and not be left stranded....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
its definitely not the inertia switch, that happened to me once and i had to push it in to start. this problem is happening when i m driving, the car just turns off and the M and S lights flash. Then let it sit a while and if it feels like it will restart.
 

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Run the truck up to autozone and have them test the battery or whatever else, they do it fo' free.

This one...

DieHard Automotive Battery, Platinum P-4 - Group Size 34/78DT (with exchange)


Why get the marine battery when this one is the same spec, cheaper, and longer warranty?

The PM-1 groupe 34 is 1150 CCA, but I don't think you really NEED that. This is my second battery with 800+ CCA. I ran the exide orbital for a few years but it died because I never could get somewhere to get the SLS switched to coils in the ecu and it just eventually drained the bat one too many times, but never had a problem other than that!
 

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It maybe time for the CPS ... MB mentioned it earlier but the M+S is low voltage...now why did the bat get low voltage? There is a 150 amp fuse in the fuse box good to check it...it is black with copper pronges on either end. Mine blew and affected the starting and blinking M+S...


 

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Discussion Starter #20
The battery was never bad to begin with i just bought a new one to test it out. I charged and put the old one back in and will return the new one. It is not the battery. it only drained from me cranking it over to start it. I am leaning towards a new start inhibit/neutral safety switch and harness for the auto gearbox. I checked fuses and terminals, all good. I dont have a meter test but i dont think it is the problem, there is no leakage or drain on the battery.

check out this website and let me know what you think. is it a good start????

Land Rover Repair: 2001 Disco II M & S lights, discovery series ii, neutral safety switch
 
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