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NavyDude
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This code just popped for me, and appears to be an engine fan code. It was 105* when it happened. I immediately pulled over and shut the truck down. I could tell something was different because the truck sounded different - like the fan was much louder. It's pretty hard to describe noises, but wasn't the typical quietness from the engine. It reminded me of the kind of airflow sound that larger semi truck engines have when taking off. I also noted that as soon as I shut off the AC system, the engine sound went to normal and the temp stabilized. Truck drove fine after that but the code still remains. Can someone here help me connect the dots to what may be going on and how these things effect each other?

Also, I'm working with a newly installed radiator, coolant, and thermostat. Any input appreciated!
 

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NavyDude
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
This might be a silly question, but which one is the aux fan? During my radiator replacement I had half the front end disassembled and didn't see another one. I assumed "auxiliary" would suggest there's more than one fan. Is that correct? Or is it referring to the main fan? :shrug
 

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NavyDude
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Interesting. I don't think mine even has one. Wonder if it was previously removed, as I just purchased this about a month ago. Where should it be in relation to the engine fan?
 

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Check fuse 10E in the engine bay junction box, if that's good the main engine elecro-viscous cooling fan is electronically supervised by the ECU so a problem with it will make the engine ECU log that fault code.... check if the connector(C2270 attached) is not loosen eventually try to stop the fan with a rolled up newspaper when the engine is hot... if you can you need a new one, or if it's not spinning fast check the relay too also verify resistance across the black wire in the plug and body to rule out a bad earth.... what ever it is the problem is in the fan's circuit(attached)
 

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It's an electro-viscous complex unit controlled by the engine ECU with PWM signal
 

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NavyDude
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the replies gents, much appreciated! I looked up the 10E but saw multiple forums that said the 10E was for suspension? Perhaps that was on other models? Either way, my fuses were all good. I also checked the fan connector, and the wires looked good. To be safe, I reseated the connector. As for the fan relay, I got my multimeter out but wasn't sure how to check the fan relay with the diagram provided on the component. I read that some auto relays should read INFINITE resistance, and others should read ZERO resistance. Wasn't sure which one this should be, but I got infinite resistance across them all.

The fan doesn't seem to spin very quickly, but once I turn the A/C on, it picks up speed. This may have been the air-y sound I was hearing before.

I recently had the fan out for a radiator replacement, but it's run for 300+ miles since then without issue, so I don't think it's a post-installation problem from that maintenance evolution.

On a side note, I also have a whiny pulley, so if I gotta take the fan off to test it I may as well replace the belt and that whiny pulley. Looks like it's coming from the idler but I'll try to grab a photo.
 

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... I read that some auto relays should read INFINITE resistance, and others should read ZERO resistance. Wasn't sure which one this should be, but I got infinite resistance across them all.
That's not good, no relay should have infinite resistance on the coil cos it's a solenoid... across terminals 85 -86 you should have resistance usually around 80 Ohm but it can vary depending on the relay's type just that it can't be open circuit cos then the relay is fubar
 

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NavyDude
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sounds like that relay troubleshooting may have narrowed it down. I'm not sure if I measured pins 85-86, I didn't see where they were labeled. Wouldn't I need to apply a test voltage to the relay to check its function, to see if it clicks? Just curious, I've worked with them before on planes but am unfamiliar with working on them in vehicles.

Hypothetically though, if that relay were bad, what would be the indication? Would the fan not work at all? Or would it not kick on during increased temps? It's kicking on when the car is at idle and A/C on. The RPM's just up a little bit when it happens and I can hear the fan spinning faster.

Is it possible this could be an intermittent shorting condition? It's 110* here in Central Valley, CA....I figure if there would be an overheating issue it would have just happened, I had the A/C cranked waiting at idle in the In-N-Out drive through line. Ran fine though.

Stumped.
 

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I don't know exactly how that fan operates cos the description is vague but as it's combined viscous-electric unit it might work on viscous coupling even without any feed... make sure that the relay is ok, if it's a normal 4 pin relay the coil is across the two parallel terminals but it should be a scheme on it's casing
 
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The fan can mechanically bind internally.

Imagine a fan clutch but instead of the bi-metallic spring telling it when to engage and disengage, it uses an electrical signal from the ECU. When they fail, they can not engage at all, or sometimes they can stick and stay engaged full-time.

They're using these on alot of the pickup trucks these days. They last alot longer, but they're expensive when they fail- don't know about the D3 on that, but I assume it's like all Rover parts.
 

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NavyDude
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The fan can mechanically bind internally.

Imagine a fan clutch but instead of the bi-metallic spring telling it when to engage and disengage, it uses an electrical signal from the ECU. When they fail, they can not engage at all, or sometimes they can stick and stay engaged full-time.

They're using these on alot of the pickup trucks these days. They last alot longer, but they're expensive when they fail- don't know about the D3 on that, but I assume it's like all Rover parts.


Good info, mate. any chance that would/could be an intermittent fault? Because it's not consistent, which is making it a PITA to troubleshoot.
 

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NavyDude
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Also, I had my first overheat indication since I replaced the radiator. Once I hit the "AC OFF" button, temps normalized. Checked coolant, still full. To me, that rules out being a coolant issue and points me something else in the cooling system - perhaps it is my fan.

I've got a Fluke multimeter, if I remove the fan again do you guys have any advice on how to test it/what to look for? I completely detest paying for parts that don't fix the problem so I like to confirm the discrepancy.
 

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Most likely it's the fan. The clutch can not engage, partially engage, or stick engaged. basically, when they go wonky, they'll do as they please. If in these temps you're not getting full engagement at idle, etc., the clutch is likely the issue. Especially at that year and mileage.

These electric units have a connector on the front- they're like motor brushes. They wear out over time.
 

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NavyDude
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91 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm going to pick a fan up and try that out. If it doesn't fix it I can always try to return for a refund. Are these fans pretty picky with needing to be OEM replacements, or do aftermarket ones work well also? I've encountered a few vehicles that pretty much refused to take aftermarket stuff.
 

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NavyDude
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Most likely it's the fan. The clutch can not engage, partially engage, or stick engaged. basically, when they go wonky, they'll do as they please. If in these temps you're not getting full engagement at idle, etc., the clutch is likely the issue. Especially at that year and mileage.

These electric units have a connector on the front- they're like motor brushes. They wear out over time.
Thanks for the help, brotha. Would you suggest I buy a full fan and clutch replacement, or am I able to grab just a clutch? Going with just a clutch looks to be $50-100 cheaper.
 

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If you can get just the clutch, then definitely. The fan isn't likely all that worn :) . I don't know if the part is available separately though. My guess is that Behr was/is the OEM supplier. If you can find one, it's a safe bet.

Here's the thing- at the age and mileage of this truck, if it doesn't need it today, it will next week/month/etc. It's not a part you want to mess around on. A head gasket job at a good independent would cost you half the truck's value.
 
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