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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had an appointment today and left my lr2 with valet parking. They parked it in the sun with the windows up. The valet who returned it to me, put all the windows down. I got in and went to put them up only to find that they all worked except the driver's window. A couple of weeks ago, I'd put the driver's and passenger's down and pulled the switches to raise them both at the same time- the passengers came up, but the driver's only came part way. After I'd driven a couple of miles and opened and closed my door a couple of times, it started working again. I just thought maybe there was a relay somewhere that got hot then reset. So far, it's been 3 hours since I picked it up, I've driven 50 miles of country road, opened and closed my door a half dozen times, and it still won't go up. I do, however, hear a very faint sound when I activate the switch, but if I do it 3-4 times quickly in succession, I don't hear it any longer. What's the problem, and whatever it is, how do I get the #@)$$&*# window up- I'm 100 miles from a dealer.

Other oddity- ever since I picked it up, the external temp shows about 5 degrees higher than it is, which it didn't do before. Suggestions?

thanks
David
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Mr. Do-it-yourself strikes again!

any thoughts out there on this? It's how I solved the window issue.

I listened closely when I pulled on the up switch for the driver's window that was all the way down. I would hear a click, followed in a second or two by another click. Genius that I am, I removed the door panel, unhooked the window switch connector and door lock cable. That's when I learned these things are built like brick shithouses (assuming the door is indicative). Unlike your basic GM, Ford, or Chrysler, there was no craft paper silencer over the interior door panel and the interior door panel isn't full of holes so you can get inside to replace a regulator or whatever. So, I saw the motor and that was about the end of that trip. I reconnected everything and put the door panel back on (except for the rocket scientist moment I had where I dropped the upper screw that anchors the door pull into the grass and couldn't find it. I always forget- never do these things near grass). I turned on the ignition without starting and tried the switch again- same thing. Then I opened the door and closed it while holding the up switch up. I heard the motor for about a second. I tried it again and the same thing happened. Then I held the down switch down and closed the door again. This time, I could hear the window go down for a couple of seconds. Then I opened the door and closed it again with the up switch up. The window moved- I held the switch, and it closed fully. I haven't been brave enough to put it all the way down, but I've had it down a couple of inches and it goes back up. So, I'm figuring it's either a short somewhere, or maybe the thing needed to recalibrate (I read something in the manual about recalibrating, otherwise I wouldn't even know you could).
 

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disco biscuit
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It sounds like it obviously has worn wires in the door hinge. There's a boot running g from the cab to the door next to the hinges. You should be able to pull the rubber boot back and find a wire or connection fault in there. Should be able to splice and reconnect in that boot or right past it either way. I don't think its a programming problem. There are no parameters to relate to door opening/close. Might be an easy fix just kind of tight working in the door jamb there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So, I didn't fix it back in June. You know, when it's raining and the roof leaks you can't fix it because it's raining, but when it quits raining and the roof doesn't leak, you don't fix it because it's not leaking...... well, someone else put the window down and it quit 3/4 of the way down, so I'll be driving this way until it starts working again or I fix it tomorrow.

QUESTION: Are both ends of this wiring harness 28-pin connectors or something similar? Does the harness go from the door frame to the door panel and plug into a connector on the door, or do the wires go elsewhere inside the door before the connector? I'm asking because if I don't find a broken wire in the harness between the door and the frame, how do I access the wiring inside the door since the whole door has a sheet metal panel covering it behind the door panel? It clearly won't be a problem if the boot connects at both ends- to the frame and to the door. If it only has a connector at the frame, I'm gonna have more work to do inside the door and need to know how to get into it.

ALSO, assuming I fail, is there anyway to put power directly to the window motor just to get it up so the dealer can deal with it in several days?

thanks
 

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disco biscuit
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Take it all apart and look at it. Or use a multimeter.

On the rain leak thing...do you have a water hose. Simulates rain because water comes out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
If I were the old man in question, I would have thought of that. I hope.

I looked at the wiring harness. I assume the rubber boot comes off the cconnector, but its one hell of a tight fit. I don't want to tear it up and don't want to take it off and not be able to get it back on. Also, is the connector on the door end the same? Or does it connect inside the door? If you answered my email, I haven't seen it-I only get that email at the office. Let me know if you did and I'll run to the office and read it.
 
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