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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for the pros and cons/shortcomings of the system (i.e., approach/departure angles, ground clearance, weak steering/suspension points/ low range low enough?, articulation (detachable sway bars?) etc.).

I hav an 89 jeep with 33's and 5 inches of lift, but the differentials dont lock up possitively (yet:)). I am well aware of its caoabilities and shortcomings, but have never taken the disco to the trails (just boaght it two weeks ago). Mine is a 98 w/o functioning diff lock. How much of a difference w and w/o the diff lock, and what are the situations which will cause the faults to reveal themselves?

Thanks

Kieran :drive:
 

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Non functioning diff lock

From what I've heard, (not an expert by any means), many of the Discos that haven't seen much or any offroad time can have issues engaging the diff lock. Mine has this problem, I think it's been used primarily as a grocery getter. That's gonna change reeeal soon. :buttrock:
 

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cnieri said:
From what I've heard, (not an expert by any means), many of the Discos that haven't seen much or any offroad time can have issues engaging the diff lock. Mine has this problem, I think it's been used primarily as a grocery getter. That's gonna change reeeal soon. :buttrock:
On a side note, how do you like your B6 chassis Audi?
 

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I have a few friends driving Disco Is with no problems, as long as you have decent tyres as the originals are a bit skinny

Both my Discos are SII 2001 and 2004 models with ETC and HDC, and no diff lock but very capable off roaders
 

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Slow down. Without a difflock, your Disco is practically helpless off-road the minute the amount of traction becomes different under each of the wheels. Permanent four wheel drive, yes, but power is routed through a center differential. When you "put" your Jeep in 4wd, the front and rear axles are locked. Your Disco is in 4wd all the time, but neither axle is locked together. This means that theoretically, if one wheel of the four is on ice and the other three are on dry pavement and you are on a steep incline, all the power will go to the one wheel on the ice and you will go nowhere. The diff lock is operating on the center differential only, so when its locked, its the equivelant of the Jeep with 4wd engaged. Maybe you are thinking of axle lockers, like an ARB air locker or a detroit locker, or the type of lockers that come on a new Rubicon. These lock the open differentials at the front and / or rear of the vehicle so the wheels on both sides of the axle are forced to turn. This type of locker may be fitted to a Land Rover, but does not come standard. Searcaigh mentioned the capable Disco II without the diff lock but with ETC and HDC. First of all, it DOES have the same center diff lock as the DI, but the only way to engage it is with a wrench from underneath the vehicle. ETC (traction control) manages slip and directs torque in place of the diff lock. In this way, it technically accomplishes the same thing as center, front, and rear diff locks using the ABS brakes and a computer. The Disco I has no ETC system and needs to have the diff locked in order to be capable. The Disco does have advantages over, like a Jeep, in suspension travel, axle articulation, heavy duty components such as frames, axles, hubs, etc, water capabilities...on and on. Land Rovers and Range Rovers never have used front or rear lockers in the past because with axles locked together halfshafts, diffs, and driveshafts can all get destroyed, plus you can't steer, etc. Land Rover has always relied on ETC since 1992 for the Range Rover and 1999 for the Disco (II). ETC has the advantage of sending torque to the wheel with the most grip, but it won't break anything. However, it is a poor system since it reacts only when grip is lost in the first place. Also, with lots of continuous use, it can overheat and shuts down temporarily. Finally, being electronic, it can fail. Other manufacturers of exceptional 4x4's, do use the diff locks. The Mercedes-Benz G-Class and Unimog can lock all three diffs together. I mentioned the new Wrangler Rubicon, although how hard-core this machine is I don't know...The new Land Rover LR3 (Disco replacement) uses auto-locking center and rear diffs, and the Hummer (H1 & H2) use a combo of diff locks and traction control.
Why doesn't your diff lock work? Can you just not get it engaged? Keep trying to work it in, it will eventually go.
 

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troverman said:
Can you just not get it engaged? Keep trying to work it in, it will eventually go.
LIKE I SAID KERIAN, TRY ROST OFF, FROM WURTH OR SOME OTHER TYPE OF SPRAY TO EVENTUALLY BREAK IT LOOSE! SPRAY AND WAIT AND SPRAY AND WAIT! COLLIN
 

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We have quite a large Audi community in Minnesota, there are a few clubs around, the main group that I have spent a ton of time with has just over 1000 active members. Much different than the LR community here, or lack there of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This is what I know:

I bought the vehicle from its orig. owner 2 weeks ago. It had 160k miles. He said he had all the reg. maintanance done, but the service passport shows intermittent servicing , last one w/60k miles. I have asked him for the work receipts, not got them yet. He did day he never used the high/low or diff lock lever, and didnt know how to show me it worked. He also never had it off road.

The Diff Lock:

It engages high range to low range w/o issue. The lever wont move left to engage the diff lock. I have had it up on a lift and sprayed the heck out of it, i.e., the lever that comes down from the center console, the horizontal rod that comes out of the side of the top box (which the lever comes into from the to from the cab), the verticle rod that comes off the coupling that holds the high/low rod to the diff lock rod, the diff lock rod, and its linkage at the lower part of the transfer case where the little arm actually moves the diff lock actuator in the box.

I then had a friend try to engage it while I tried to help it along with a long screwdriver. The verticle rod was flexing, as opposed to any great movement in the horizontal rod, which is supposed to move when you push/pull the lever in the cab. All to no avail. I have since tried to move it to diff loack a few times when going somewhere.

One though I had was that the coupling on the horizontal rod (coming out of the top cover of the transfer case) is loose, and spins as you engage high/low range. However, on closer examinatuion, I think this is supposed to be loose to allow the diff lock to be engaged in either high or low.

Peope have suggested to just keep working the lever, however, I have yet to feel any real progress in the movement. I am dreading the prospects of doing it, but I may have to pull the console, pull out the carpet, drill the rivets, remove the transmission cover, and open the top to see what the problem is.

I have heard of one person who braced himself against the pass. door and gave the lever a good kick, however, I think this would cause either a break/bend in the verticle shaft, and or broken linkage.

Any other insights?

Sorry so long, but appreciate the help.

Kieran
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That is exactly what I needed!!!!! :clap: Thanks guys. I'll have it figured out in no time now . . . once I get the time. :eek:

Now for the front sunroof, it makes a click when you hit the switch, but thats it. I think the rails might be siezed due to lack of grease, or bad switch, or bad ground on motor, or bad motor. Anyone have this issue, how did you fix it? :dunno:

:drink1:
 

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HEKS yess man...thats what i needed to...i cant get my lock to engage on Low but with this info i think i'll have it running in no time as well. Hitting the trails for 3 days memorial weekend so gotta have everything working...WOOOO
 

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Sunroof issues on a Disco? Very common, try a search. The sunroofs are "one touch" --they automatically should retract with a quick push of the button. Can you tilt it up? It is better to take it apart and clean and lube it than ruin cables / motor / supports, etc. The first thing to do in test for power at electric motor when switch is pressed.

02Disco2--where is that in Minnesota? I used to live in Hibbing (Up north on the iron range) not a foreign car of any type for miles.
 

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Hey, I already have corrosion near my alpine windows, and I'm tired of the moonroofs malfuntioning, I was wondering if it is possible to put in a new roof, without the moonroofs? To just replace it with a whole new one, that way I eliminate the corrosion near the alpine windows and get rid of the malfuntioning moonroofs. It is possible at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Am I right that you have to remove the headliner for the whole truck to get at the motor?

Kieran
 

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troverman said:
02Disco2--where is that in Minnesota? I used to live in Hibbing (Up north on the iron range) not a foreign car of any type for miles.
Hibbing? Man, I have a lake home way up there!(or near there anyway) 45 miles north of Grand Rapids. Shakopee is a southwest suburb of Minneapolis. One city south of Eden Prairie and Bloomington. You run into it off of HWY 169.
 
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