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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

Normal tire pressure is okay.
Select low range 1st or 2nd gear.
Engage Diff lock and axle lockers (if fitted).
Remember your approach angle in a D1(unmodified) is 39 degrees unladen, with a climb angle of 45 degrees +.


• Diff lock & axle locks engaged.
• Select low range 2nd.
• More momentum.
Start in 2nd low to get moving, then double clutch (manual transmissions only) into the higher gears 3rd & 4th low.
Use 2nd high when towing heavy loads.
• Attaching chains may be required.
• Stay in as high a gear as possible to prevent wheel spin. If this does occur, ease of the throttle. If the vehicle begins to slide backwards, immediately shift into reverse and let go of all pedals. Let the engine do the braking. Don’t use the brakes going down the hill, or static friction will be lost and the slide will begin once again.


• Diff lock and axle lockers engaged.
• Select low range 1st.
• Attach chains. Rear wheels if only one set available.

* If you are 3-4 metres from the crest of the hill (and cannot proceed under power), put the truck into 1st gear (manual only) and crank the starter for 10-15 seconds. Do not touch the clutch. Give the starter 5 minutes to cool down and continue.

* If the vehicle loses traction and momentum, allow to stall, do not change gear.
• Apply the hand brake.
• De-clutch and select reverse.
• Keep feet off the clutch and brake at all times.
• Open bonnet and remove the coil lead from the distributor (to prevent engine starting)
• Let off the hand brake, turn the ignition over, keep foot off pedals and crank down the hill. This method must be used if a trailer is attached!

A problem with “lockers” is the tendency of a locked differential to drive the vehicle sideways if traveling across a slanted surface, especially if the surface is slippery. Gravity is pulling the vehicle sideways down the slope, and the two locked wheels rotating together act like a giant corkscrew, driving the end that’s locked down the hill. If driving across a side-hill on a loose or slippery surface don’t use lockers.
A related problem is having a locked front end kick the vehicle to one side or other when traveling uphill. This is because the weight is on the rear end, and the front end is light. If the locked front wheels catch the edge of a ledge, or hit a patch of loose dirt, they can kick the vehicle sideways. When using lockers to get up a difficult hill, start out with the rear lockers engaged only. Once on the hill and the front wheels are biting well, then engage the front lockers.

528 Posts
disco, do you have a hot sister or something that knows as much as you do? man oh man, these tips are great. I'd like to add that i have a 95 d1 with 3" OME lift, rancho 9000's in the back, some other HD shocks in the front, 33" trxus M/T's, brush guard, and removed front valence bumper thingy, and a few days ago i made it up multiple inclines(creek banks) about 15 ft high of angles 70 degrees atleast, with little trouble, just hit it straight on and gased the hell out of it. my buddy has a dodge ram 5.9L with 35" M/T's in 4x4 lifted about 9" and couldn't even make it up, he had to drive downstream and find an easier bank. It impressed him so much, he was thinking about buying a landy. I think i'm going to print out all of these articles and keep them in my glove compartment for future reference. Thanks bud. cheers. :drink1:

- AppStateDisco
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