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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know I've asked a lot of questions and thank you all for your help.

So far, I've removed the oil pan, oil pick up strainer, and disconnected the oil cooler pipe. I was able to get the water pump pulley off and I was able to get the crank pulley off. I then removed the 9 front cover bolts.

The thing will not budge. I had a feeling that there was more to remove first but the RAV doesn't mention anything else. I looked around with a flash light and it looks like there is a pipe attached to the oil filter adapter, a sensor that was attached by one of the cover bolts (just under the water pump), and another attachment which I think is oil pressure switch.

I hesitate to just start removing stuff, especially when the RAV doesn't say anything about it. I don't want to screw something up so any suggestions would be great! I'm stuck until I can get this figured out.

Thanks!!
 

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'03 Disco SE
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Did you remove both oil cooler pipes, outlet and return? The sensor above the crank seal held in by the cover bolt is a cam position sensor, it can stay as long as you remove the bolt. The oil pressure switch can stay too.

Are you sure you got the right cover bolts out of the water pump? There are three long bolts used through the water pump that hold the timing cover. Two on the drivers side and one on the passengers side of the pulley.

Assuming you have all of these parts out, the thing should be loose. Mine was stuck on too, but after a few very light taps on the oil filter adapter with a rubber mallet, it broke loose and came off easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you remove both oil cooler pipes, outlet and return? The sensor above the crank seal held in by the cover bolt is a cam position sensor, it can stay as long as you remove the bolt. The oil pressure switch can stay too.

Are you sure you got the right cover bolts out of the water pump? There are three long bolts used through the water pump that hold the timing cover. Two on the drivers side and one on the passengers side of the pulley.

Assuming you have all of these parts out, the thing should be loose. Mine was stuck on too, but after a few very light taps on the oil filter adapter with a rubber mallet, it broke loose and came off easily.
Thanks Bosnian. I didn't get the oil cooler pipes. There is nothing in the RAV about them but I can clearly now see that they are attached. I'm sure I got all the long bolts from the water pump. I'll get those oil cooler pipes disconnected and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Something I forgot to ask, when I removed the pan, I could see that there are two large holes, one on each side, at the top back of the pan. One of these has a rubber plug. The other didn't. What are these holes for and should they both have a plug?

Thanks,
 

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All the directions are in the Rave look in the repair section.
How many miles on the engine and have you also planned on replacing the timing chain set?
 

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'03 Disco SE
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The big holes with the rubber plugs are inspection holes that allow you to get to the flywheel bolts so you can disconnect the engine and transmission. There should be plugs on both sides because there is a risk of dirt, dust, or water getting in there and causing damage, but unless you do lots of off-roading or live in a high-dust environment you're probably safe driving it around until you get replacements.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The big holes with the rubber plugs are inspection holes that allow you to get to the flywheel bolts so you can disconnect the engine and transmission. There should be plugs on both sides because there is a risk of dirt, dust, or water getting in there and causing damage, but unless you do lots of off-roading or live in a high-dust environment you're probably safe driving it around until you get replacements.
Thanks. I do live in a dusty environment but it's had to have been missing since at least the time I bought the truck a couple years ago. I suppose a little while longer isn't going to matter.
 

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When I did my oil pump gears, there was a bolt in the front cover that did not appear in the RAVE. My friend and I pried on the front cover after removing the bolts specified in the RAVE, and nothing happened. So we just started removing one bolt at a time and there was one under the water pump that was holding it on. That's the best I can do, because it's been 3 years since I did the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When I did my oil pump gears, there was a bolt in the front cover that did not appear in the RAVE. My friend and I pried on the front cover after removing the bolts specified in the RAVE, and nothing happened. So we just started removing one bolt at a time and there was one under the water pump that was holding it on. That's the best I can do, because it's been 3 years since I did the job.
Thanks. I'll keep this in mind if it still doesn't come off after I remove the oil cooler lines.
 

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I struggled with that too...I ended up prying it off with a flathead screw driver. Being careful not to destroy the cover housing the seal. The seal is metal inside the plastic covering ... I did spray it with liquid wrench and set overnight
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
HAH.... what tool? :eek::eek::eek:

I didn't use one. It'd probably wise to, but if you cant, it still works. Im having no problems with oil.
I'm trying to think of the best method for reinstalling the pan. It was a bit of a bugger to slip out. I'm thinking the following:

1. Apply RTV to the engine mating surface and stick on gasket (not sure how well this will work upside down).
2. Apply RTV to the bottom of the gasket.
3. Try to slip the pan in and up to the gasket as carefully as possible as to not disrupt the RTV too much while adjusting around trying to get the pan on square.
4. Try and hold the pan on with one hand while screwing in a bolt on each side around the mid way point of the pan to hold it in place.
5. Install the remainder of the bolts hand tight and then torque in the sequence described in RAV.

Am I missing something or is there a better way to do this?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
When starting the truck for the first time after replacing the oil pump gears, is there a specific procedure that should be used? Or, just start it up and pray the oil light turns off in a few seconds?
 

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If it was primed right it should! I unplugged the crank sensor and the oil cooler line and cranked it a little to see if it oil was being circulated (squirting out of the cooler line lol). When it did, I plugged the oil cooler line back in, then the crank sensor and started right up oil light for 1 second on start. Its best that you have someone hold the cooler line, tell them to look right in the hole, then crank it, and when they yell at you and threaten your life because oil is all over them, you'll know its primed :D
 
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