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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I know, I just put the 275/65/18s on my D3, but…

I just found a set of FFRR 22s for $100!!!!
I am looking at some aggressive 285/50/22 tires

right now I’m 32.1” and 10.8” wide, which really seems to be the max the 3 will accept without further mods. The 22s with those tires will be 33.1” and 11.2” wide.

my wife drives this rig, and her idea of off-road is a gravel driveway…im going to keep the 18s for any real trips, but I feel like this would look cool as ****.

yes, I’m also well aware that I’m perverting the norm here, but that’s just how I roll. 20s on the D2, 22s on the D3.

anything less would be uncivilized

93339

93340
 

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To each their own. I have 275/65R18s on mine but they are Coopers and their website states that they are 32.6" OD. I think for the tires above, it's the width that will kill ya.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes I suppose that 32.1” may well be the casing not the tread. Another 10mm is crux though, I already rub a wee bit at full lock. I’ll have to compare the offsets to see where I stand l, but the wheels are in the back of the truck as I type so fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Oh snap. So the Atturo Trailblade XT is available in 275/45/22!!! I had those tires before (on my D2 and later on my RRS), and they performed well on-road and off-road.

93341


they’ll actually size down an iota as well!

Here’s a nostalgia shot of my D2 (before it matured) with atturos:
93342
 

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I think that 275/65R18s are typically 32.1" OD. My point was that the Coops run a little larger, not that there was a difference in measurement (casing to tread). I would think that such a thing would be standardized.

As for the Trailblades....maybe that's a good option for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, I think that’s where I’ll go. It’s not as much tire as I’d like, but I’m not trying to go too crazy modding the 3… 5” of tire should be fine for my wife’s endeavors
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, so… for anybody who may care, after doing a little research, I’m leaning toward 285/45/22. Here’s a comparison to my 275/65/18:

93358


with the change in offset (super minor <1cm) the tire will be .25” closer to the frame and .5” further out of the wheel well.

thinking about having the wheels powder coated first though, which may seriously impact the timeline
 

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2005 LR3 SE V6 w/Coils & 2008 LR3 SE V8 on 33’s
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I think you will have to trim the frame horns and possibly the lower front wheel well liners/bumper a tad at that width. When I did the calculations I discovered I could go tall or wide but not both.

I’ve got 32x10.5 on my 05 on 2”+ coil overs, and it rubs at full lock in reverse a tad even after horns are removed and significant material removed ahead of them.

I’ve got 33.2 x 10.5 on the 08 and a 3.25” minimum lift on air suspension… plus all the normal mods: heater hose relocate, hammered down body seams, heat-n-flatten wheel well liners, horns cut back, lower bumper and liners cut WAY up in front. And it’s really close at full lock. I tried 1” wheel spacers and it was non drivable as a 1/2 turn of the front wheels nearly removed lugs on the tires.
93378

You can see here how much I removed of the lower corner of the bumper. I think it looks great, better than factory. I relocated the washer tank with L8’s kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Interesting. I have the 32x10.5 (10.8 according to tiresize) on my 06 right now with no issues. I’m not running rods, just some of the height available via nanocom. I have some close clearances, but I can’t imagine an extra .25” inward breaking my setup.

I wonder how the geometry of these trucks can be so different from rig to rig.
 
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it looks hot as hell
93379

thanks! Here’s a slightly more recent shot that actually shows the clearance better. After cutting this all out I can’t believe how low the factory skirting really hangs. You can’t tell from the front, but the cut is actually an arc from the lower radiator frame member (where paint and plastic meet) to just under the fender flare at the top.
 

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Interesting. I have the 32x10.5 (10.8 according to tiresize) on my 06 right now with no issues. I’m not running rods, just some of the height available via nanocom. I have some close clearances, but I can’t imagine an extra .25” inward breaking my setup.

I wonder how the geometry of these trucks can be so different from rig to rig.
I’ve often thought that as we continually hear what works for one seems to not work for another.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
with all due respect, have you considered cutting a beauty plate to sandwich between the hawse and the mount to disguise the... rustic cuts?
 

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I love that you called me out on that. Lol.
Yes, in the works. My metal fabricator had to take care of family obligations and barely got the plate installed before he had to go. We still need to remove it all to clean it up, Powder Coat and reinstall. We will have a trim installed at that time. My original plan was to have a custom front bumper fabricated. But honestly I am now second-guessing whether the additional weight is worth it. The approach angle on the factory set up, especially with the trimming I have done, is quite exceptional.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Haha didn’t mean to put you on blast, I just noticed it on an otherwise stellar looking rig.

I love my ARB on my D2. I had a discreet winch on it previously, but I will probably go the discreet route on my 3 as well. It looks really good IMO
 

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Oh I probably need to be put on blast, or more likely “on notice” than I do… it’s a full time job to keep up with just my unfinished projects…

93382

Case in point, I need to go back and clean up the cuts here as well. It was a trial and error to find what line looked good and cleared everything. So now that I know the line, when I pull the winch tray I’ll clean up this edge while it’s off the rig. I may actually fabricate a piece to connect the liner and the bumper again, just to help with mud and water splash into that void. But that’s low on the list now. I still need to reroute the air suspension hoses and front valve block and rewire my rock lights to be concealed and in a more protected location. I’m still in shock how vulnerable the air lines are in the front… and why the valve block is up front and not back with the compressor and the lines following the frame away from accident prone damage. One bit at a time….
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah, I’m the proud new owner of some rough cuts myself:


I think something like this will be our friend:

 

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Nice work on your rack lights!!

I actually have a roll of that edge trim in the shed waiting to see if that’s enough or if I need the metal plate the fabricator made for around the winch fairlead. It’s not as discreet as I’d like it to be so I hope the edge trim will be enough.
 
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