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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This has been a long story. I have replaced:
Thermostat
Temp Sensor (for ECU not guage)
A/C condenser fan (it was burned out)
Main Fuel Relay
ECU (I shorted it out)
Sepentine belt.

The car still overheats with the temp cycling up and down rapidly so I think I probably still have an air bubble in the system. Also the condenser fans are coming on and going off as if they are getting intermittent power. I can hear the relay clicking on and off inside the car. Finally I want to verify the main fan's clutch is engaging.

1) Could the condenser fan relay be faulty and go on and off?
2) How can I determine if the Fan Clutch is being engaged?

Thanks,
Phil
 

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Spin the fan by hand when it's cold, it should have some resistance.

How's the rad?

The condesnor fans are going on and off because the engine is overheating. I would worry if the fans did not go on at all.
 

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Is the water pump bad? There is not much to the cooling system, sounds like you replaced about everything else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
There is some resistance on the main fan when it is cold. As far as the water pump I am not hearing any noise. Is there another way to tell if it is working?
 

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As the engine warms up, you should feel hot water getting to the radiator via the top hose. If the engine is heating up and the water to the radiator is not, I'd suspect air in the system first, try bleeding the system.
 

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When at an idle, after the engine warms up is your heater cold, warm or hot? If cold, does it warm up if you run your idle up to 2000 RPM's for a couple of seconds?
Mike J.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The heater is warm at idle.
Recap:
Starts easily and runs smoothly. I can travel about 10 miles thru town while driving between 30-40 mph interrupted by traffic lights and stop signs at normal temperature. Then the temperature starts to climb fairly rapidly. It will fluctuate up and down. If I rev the engine it tends to lower the temperature. The condenser fans go on and off intermittantly and do not seem to run as a result of the temp guage. My OBD-II scanner shows coolant at around 232-240 degrees. The reading will fluctuate up and down by a few degrees while running.

I am not sure the main fan is working. Also I am concerned by the operation of the condenser fans. Plus I think I may still have a smaller air pocket in the cooling system.

Later tonight I am swapping the condenser fan relay (yellow multi-use) to see if that is a/the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I ran the engine with my OBD-II scanner attached. The coolant temp slowly climbed at an idle. Running the heater at full blast and/or increasiing the revs would lower the temp but at idle with no heater running the temp would creep up.

I imagine this is what is happening as I drive. The temp is slowing working its way up. Its as if the main fan is not quite going fast enough to provide the cooling necessary to maintain a steady temperature. This leaves me with a few questions:

1) What temp should the coolant stabilize at? I supsect it is around 220 degrees.

2) Would a failure of the main fan's clutch act like this? Is there anyway to know for sure the clutch has failed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
A friend at the dealership had the same idea. I am taking the car into a reccomended radiator shop on Friday to have the core cleaned. Hopefully that will solve the problem.

I am still concerned about the main fan. When I parked the car tonight with the temp guage reading normal I turned off the engine and immediately tested the fan blade for any resistance and it was free spinning. It seems to me that at a normal temp the blade should be engaged and have some resistance after shut down. As it was the fan must have been free-wheeling at shut down and that doesn't seem right.

:dunno:
 

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plastic said:
could it be your radiator is going bad?
That's what I thought also.

I had a similar problem and after changing the thermostat, the water pump, the fan clutch it ended being the rad.

Got a new one for $375 (original) instead of $500+
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Today I took the Disco to the radiator shop and was informed the radiator was all "gunked up" and couldn't be cleaned without damaging it. However they replaced the core with a new one with wider passageways for the coolant. The whole process cost $285 including labor and fluids so I guess that's not too bad. I think it has solved the problem altough I guess wait until a few hundred miles have passed before I am 100% sure.

In the meantime I am looking for another series 1 1996 thru 1998. Since I am learning so much about this one I may as well have another so I can apply the gained knowledge to another vehicle!
 

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Thats great! Good price!

Keep us posted.
 

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Normal Operating Temperature

The reccomended thermostat for the V8 Land Rover engine is 88C (190F),
An awful lot of Disco/Rangie/Defender hot running is due to the lower core tubes being plugged up. Annual flushing is of paramount importance. Land Rover horizontal tube radiators have a VERY small passageway, for maximum contact surface area. Larger cross sectional core tubes, though far less prone to plugging, are less efficient since more water is passing through a tube of approximatelly the same surface area.

Unfortunately, Genuine Land Rover viscous fan clutches only seem to last 3-5 years. The fan clutch is constructed similar to the inside of a torque converter. The bi-matallic spring on the front of the fan clutch reacts to heat passing through the radiator. When it becomes hot, the bimetallic spring contracts, closing a rotary valve cage, causing the silicone fluid to be redirected to a chamber which has paddles, mounted to the rotating hubs (one hub is attached to the mounting stud on the shaft attached to the water pump, the other hub is attached to the body, to which the fan is mounted. As more fluid is directed to this chamber, the risistance of the fluid, between the paddles "couples" the body to the inner hub, increasing the outer hub speed to more closely match that of the inner. As the airflow through the radiator cools, the bimetallic spring "uncolis" and opens the rotary valve, allowing the fluid to go to the outside of the chamber, bypassing the paddles, and the outer hub freewheels. The causes of the fan clutches failure is either that the fluid has leaked out through the valve shaft hole, or that the shaft itself becomes stuck in the bushing, no longer able to freely rotate back and forth. This is because of dust and dirt, passing through the radiator, and getting embedded onto the front of the fan hub. An occassional shot of carb cleaner, and then a spray lithium grease lubricant helps prolong their life.

Another factor not considered in engine temperature is that of the transmission condition. A gearbox that runs hotter than normal because of burned, old fluid, or low fluid, is dumping the excess heat into the radiator. Driving conditions like towing or strong hill pulling tend to raise the transmission temp by as much as 60-100 degrees. This excessively heated transmission fluid is then run through the radiator to cool it, but the temperature differential may be so slight that it's actually rasing the engine temp. A good reason why Defenders have external transmission coolers, as opposed to internal radiator mounted coolers (Left side end tank).

Trapped air posckets cause hot spots in the engine, and do not tend to find their way to the top of the engine when underway. I've heard people expounding on all sorts of methods of burping the air from the system, such as parking on inclines nose up, nose down, and sideways. The simplest method is to remove the radiator cap,place a 6 ich funnel firmly in the hole, fill it with coolant mixture, and let the engine idle, on the level. When the thermostat opens, the air will generally flow up the top hose, and the system level will suddenly drop a few inches. Top it off (engine still running), and close up the cap.

Make sure you're using a low or no phosphate antifreeze to keep aluminum from oxidizing. This is generally what is plugging up the radiator core.
If you find you have a pinhole leak somewhere. GET IT FIXED properly. DO NOT USE ANY, ANY,ANY stop leak products in Land Rover Cooling systems. This product, while very good at sealing a leak, is heavier than water, does not remain in solution, and goes right to the bottom of the radiator. An 8 ounce container (the manufacturer of which recommends you use two containers in a V8) is enough to plug the bottom 6-8 (times three tubes per level) rows of tubes.
 
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